This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
There’s no shortage of good reasons to visit Istanbul — from its flagship attractions such as the Hagia Sophia and the Basilica Cistern to the seductive rhythms of its busier neighbourhoods and the tranquillity of its islands. It’s not hard to see why it was recently named the world’s most visited city. Yet its standout feature is arguably its cuisine. This is a city that’s been home to an impressive, bustling dining scene for over two millennia — and, while many travellers limit themselves to the prix fixe menus in the Historical Peninsula, there’s a greater culinary depth available to those willing to venture beyond the touristy kebab shops. Here are nine of the city’s best dining options — restaurants that excite the locals and offer visitors something they’re unlikely to forget.
1. Içli köfte at Seraf Vadi
Chef Sinem Özler’s second Seraf restaurant in the northern Istanbul neighbourhood of Vadi delivers an elevated culinary exploration of Turkey’s traditional flavours. The highlight of the menu is the içli köfte — a delicate shell made of bulgur wheat is stuffed with onions and minced meat, and served on top of velvety sour yoghurt. Opt for the tasting menu with wine pairings from expert sommelier Sabiha Apaydın. With high standards of service within a thoughtfully designed space, it’s a flawless dining experience from start to finish.
Fine dining restaurant Seraf offers an elegant interpretation of many Turkish classics. Signature dishes include içli köfte, a favourite in homes across the southeast of Turkey and a version of the Levantine dish kibbeh.
Photograph by Seraf Restaurant
2. Sweetbread kebab at Sadrazam Mahmut
This renowned kebab restaurant is located in the historic Sütlüce neighbourhood, once home to Istanbul’s abattoirs, overlooking the calm waters of the Golden Horn. One of the pleasures of dining here is the warmth of Ilgın Kaya, the second-generation proprietor, who can often be found patrolling the floor from table to table, anticipating diners’ wishes. But the food is also exceptional, with the kitchen turning out some of the city’s finest offal dishes and buttery bulgur pilavs. For those who enjoy their offal, perhaps the best starting point is the uykuluk (sweetbread) kebab, which is grilled over a charcoal fire until perfectly crispy on the outside, while retaining a juicy interior.
3. Dates with roquefort cream at Smelt & Co
Among the cobblestone streets of Balat, a small facade and a humble door mark the entrance of Smelt and Co, one of the city’s most inventive and elegant restaurants. Inside, expect marble surfaces, terracotta-coloured walls and an impressive collection of plants. The chefs Samet Güneş and Sinan Bakkaloğlu offer a seasonal menu dominated by vegetables and seafood, making the most of local ingredients. While dishes rarely repeat, there’s one that seems to make regular appearances on the menu: dates filled with roquefort cream. The treacly richness of the dates, the sharp smell of the cheese and the briny roe topping all combine to create something memorable and extremely popular.
Smelt & Co. offers visitors to the Balat neighbourhood a serene and romantic atmosphere.
Photograph by Smelt & Co.
Owner-chefs Güneş and Bakkaloğlu have put together a menu that pairs a rich variety of seafood with local, seasonal ingredients – as seen in dishes such as braised octopus with aubergine.
Photograph by Smelt & Co.
4. Onion dolma at Balat Sahil
Sahil Restaurant sits along the shores of the Golden Horn in the vibrant neighbourhood of Balat, once the heart of Istanbul’s Jewish community and now a favourite haunt for photography enthusiasts drawn to its colourful houses. The restaurant embodies the essence of a traditional Turkish meyhane — atmospheric establishments where visitors linger over arrays of mezes, accompanied by glasses of the aniseed spirit, rakı. But what sets Sahil apart is the quality of its dishes, including their foraged mushroom mezes in the style of the Kastamonu region. Another highlight is the iconic onion dolma (stuffed onions). Expect a spiced rice-filled onion shell slowly braised in olive oil and broth, served at room temperature with a signature charred blister at the bottom.
5. Paça çorbası at Yanyalı Fehmi
On the Asian side of Istanbul in the Kadıköy neighbourhood, Yanyalı Fehmi is a century-old institution. As the quintessential esnaf lokantası (tradesmen’s restaurant) it offers batch-cooked dishes designed to nourish the locals, with a menu that adapts to the seasons but always offers the type of comfort food cooked in homes across the country. Perhaps the most beloved dish here is the paça çorbası (trotter soup): tender veal trotters simmered in a silky, garlic-infused yoghurt broth.
Having migrated to Istanbul from Greece in the late 19th century, Fehmi Sönmezler opened the Yanyalı Fehmi in 1919. His first hire was Bolulu Hüseyin, a chef who had worked in the Ottoman sultan’s kitchen.
Photograph by Yilmaz Yildirim
6. Turkish breakfast at Privato Cafe
Located in the shadow of the 670-year-old Galata Tower, this trendy hotspot serves one of the most sensational Turkish breakfast spreads in the city. Guests are treated to a lavish feast that practically spills over the table, starting with staples such as fresh tomatoes, salt-cured olives, cucumber, cheeses, dips and jams, many of which are made in house. Then comes the second wave: sizzling eggs, grilled spicy sucuk sausage and stacks of savoury and sweet pastries. All this is accompanied by a steaming samovar of bottomless, fragrant Turkish black tea.
7. Tarama with bottarga at Rutin
Renowned throughout the city for her pastries, Gizem Yavuz made her first solo venture into the cafe scene last year with Rutin, a cosy spot tucked away on a quaint street in Beyoğlu that quickly became a local favourite. Later in the year when Kaan Demirci joined as chef, Rutin found its culinary identity offering an impressive menu featuring dishes such as dry-aged mackerel marinated in homemade soy sauce, and lamb shoulder with fermented habanero sauce. However, the tarama (whipped roe) spread is arguably the dish to try, with its indulgently thick texture and apricot-coloured pieces of local bottarga. Beyond the food, the cafe has the feel of a listening bar, with a top-notch sound system and curated vinyl selection. Catch the must-attend collaborative dining events they host with the city’s famous events collective Tanrı Misafiri.
Rutin’s take on tarama often includes a seasonal touch, such as slices of strawberries.
Photograph by Gizem Yavuz
8. Ayva tatlısı with kaymak at Sakarya Tatlıcısı
Tucked in a side street of the fish market in Beyoğlu, Sakarya Tatlıcısı is an unassuming bakery that has made traditional Turkish sweets and pastries for the past 67 years. Among the fatty poğaça breads, syrup-drenched baklavas and flaky börek pastries, one delicacy steals the show: the ayva tatlısı (poached quince). The quinces are cooked slowly in a sugary sherbet, yielding a ruby-red colour and sumptuous, almost gooey texture. Served alongside a generous dollop of buffalo milk kaymak (a dairy dish similar to clotted cream), this seasonal treat is available only during quince season, from autumn to early spring.
9. Baby calamari at Cadde Nazende
One of Istanbul’s best-kept secrets is tucked away in a side street off the fancy Bağdat Avenue. Cadde Nazende is a self-proclaimed Mediterranean restaurant that’s only recently caught the attention of the city’s gourmands. It excels in offal dishes like grilled sweetbreads, tripe stew and kid liver, but its crowning achievement is the melt-in-your–mouth baby calamari. The outside patio, warm service and extensive menu makes it ideal for families.
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