This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
From the gastronomic isles of the Cyclades to the enigmatic ruins of the Dodecanese, each of the six main Greek island groups has its own distinct character. Yet, look closely and you’ll find that more unites than sets them apart: there are secluded towns loved by local gourmands, hidden coves brimming with mythical associations and, above all, a natural splendour that’s captured the minds of artists and adventurers through the ages.
1. Nisyros: Walk on a volcano
According to Greek mythology, it was Poseidon who seized a chunk of Kos and hurled it on top of a fiery Titan called Polyvotis — creating the volcanic island of Nisyros, with its enormous, sulphurous caldera. The volcano is active, but travellers can still walk across its warm crust — it last erupted in 1888 and is carefully monitored. It can be visited on a day trip from nearby Kos, but it’s worth sticking around to explore the island’s little capital, Mandraki, with its colourful houses and Byzantine churches; the nearby thermal spring at Loutra; and the lofty village of Emporios, with its ruined Byzantine castle, natural cave sauna and mesmerising views over the caldera.
2. Kalymnos: Reach new heights
For a long time, the island of Kalymnos was famous for one thing: sponge-diving. But in 1996, a new focus emerged, when Italian rock climber Andrea di Bari, on holiday with his family, observed the island’s towering limestone cliffs. Before long, this isle emerged as a capital for climbing. Kalymnos now has over 4,000 routes for all abilities, and companies such as Climb in Kalymnos offer dedicated beginners’ courses. But it’s not all about sports here, as the island has retained its old-world charm. Wander the ruins of the Byzantine town of Kastro, high on the mountainside, or head east to Vathys and its fjord-like valley, flanked by fragrant citrus groves.
Kalymnos is the centre of rock climbing in the Greek islands.
Photograph by photobac, Getty Images
3. Kos: Pedal the ‘bicycle island’
Greece’s ‘bicycle island’, Kos has over 6,500 bikes to hire and is also crisscrossed with cycling trails, including a new eight-mile path that takes in the coast. When Kos’s Italian colonisers departed in 1943, they left their bikes behind, which were swiftly adopted by the locals. One of the best sights to explore by bike are the ruins of Asklepion, two miles outside Kos Town and easy to reach on two wheels. In 430BC, Kos native Hippocrates, the ‘Founder of Medicine’, created this healing sanctuary, which is arranged in terraces along the hillside. But you don’t have to be a keen cyclist to enjoy Kos — the island is also generously endowed with sandy beaches, and Kos Town is known for its crusader, Ottoman and Italian architecture set beneath clouds of fuchsia bougainvillea.
4. Tilos: Wander a ghost village
For centuries, the residents of Tilos built their homes inland, safe from marauders. But in the 1950s, when the villagers of Mikro Chorio found their wells running dry, they decided to relocate to the island’s port area — taking their roofs, doors and windows with them. Until recently, the only signs that Mikro Chorio ever existed were the whitewashed church and fawn-coloured stone walls, which snake over the hillside and act as a playground for goats. Now, though, one ruined home has been renovated and turned into an atmospheric summer bar. From 11pm when it opens, a shuttle bus runs here from nearby Livadia — and the sound of chatter and clinking glasses once again fills this ghostly village.
5. Rhodes: Explore a woodland oasis
The island of Rhodes is best known for two historic sites — walled Old Rhodes Town, built by the crusading Knights of St John; and Lindos, a pretty 15th-century sea captains’ town set beneath an ancient, vertigo-inducing acropolis. But it’s also popular for its broad, sandy beaches, and the fact it receives over 300 days of sunshine each year. If you can tear yourself away from the sea, visit Seven Springs, a refreshing woodland oasis in the north east of the island, reached by wading through a dark, 180m-long irrigation tunnel. The effort is worth it: refreshing swims, a tall waterfall and pine-shaded hiking trails await, and there’s a taverna frequented by roaming peacocks.
6. Symi: Hike through old donkey trails
Pint-sized, little-known Symi beckons day-trippers from nearby Rhodes with its neoclassical, colourful main town and the revered, frescoed Panormitis Monastery, set in a small settlement on the opposite corner of the island. Linking the two through the forested interior are some near-forgotten mule paths, which fell into disuse after a road running the length of the island was paved in the 1960s. Choose to spend a few days in Dodecanese destination and walk these storied dirt roads — at times, hardly more than a suggestion of a trail — to get to viewpoints rarely reached by foreign visitors, opening up to views of secluded coves and a promontory where the only man-made structure in sight is a solitary white church.
(Why you should go hiking in Symi, Greece.)
Symi measures a mere 13.8 square miles in total area.
Photograph by Chris Mouyiaris, AWL Images
7. Karpathos: Travel through time
One of the Dodecanese’s highest mountains effectively divides Karpathos in two. At the island’s northern end, the remote hamlet of Olympos was isolated until 1979, when a road was built through the wild terrain. Local women still wear flowery scarves and long skirts — plus enormous necklaces of gold coins on special occasions — and they keep to many traditional ways, baking bread in communal ovens and embroidering textiles. Stay overnight here, in a cosy apartment at Irene’s House or Olympos Archipelagos, with its sea views, to get a feel for Olympos’s old-world magic, and don’t miss a traditional laouto (lute) performance in the taverna.
8. Lefkada: Set sail for the islets
Mountainous, wooded Lefkada, with its craggy coast, was a late-comer to tourism, so it can feel more authentically Greek than some of the most popular isles. And for those dreaming of sailing the islands, its port of Nydri is the best place to start: sheltered from winds, its bay is scalloped with secluded coves and its own archipelago of emerald islets. You can hire anything from a licence-free dinghy up to a large sailing yacht here, with which you can explore the secret inlets.
9. Paxos: Jump into the blue
Renting boats, whether solo or with a skipper, is something you can do on stretches of most Greek islands. But the size of Pazos, a seven-mile by two-and-a-half-mile blot off the south coast of Corfu, means it can be circled in its entirety in just a few hours. This makes it perfect for beach-hopping and the chance to discover a number of Greece’s most secluded coves — some lined with olive and cypress trees, others barely wide enough for a couple of towels, all lapped by inviting, crystal-clear water. Summer days in this corner of the Ionian are mostly spent dropping anchor at whichever one takes your fancy, stretching out beneath the sun on the deck, then cooling off by diving straight into the water.
(Why you should try beach-hopping by boat around Paxos, Greece.)
Perfect for beach-hopping, Paxos brings some of Greece’s most secluded coves within reach.
Photograph by John Warburton-Lee, AWL Images
10. Corfu: Head for the hills
With its Venetian-style capital and sandy beaches, Corfu is one of Greece’s most-visited islands. It’s worth heading for the hills here. Old Perithia, the island’s highest village, was founded in the 14th century, but by the 1950s its inhabitants had left, leaving only a taverna for hikers. In 2010, a couple from the UK fell in love with the village, buying a property (now a boutique B&B) and kicking off its slow restoration. Today, it’s a riot of wildflowers in spring.
11. Zakynthos: See the blue caves
This is an island of white-sand beaches, but its north coast, with sheer cliffs rising out of the sea, is truly spectacular. The best-known precipices surround ‘Shipwreck Beach’, where a rusting cargo ship rests, slowly sinking into sands — though it’s currently only accessible to view from afar due to the risk of landslides. Other cliffs help form the Blue Caves, a labyrinth of pale rock that reflects the shimmering electric blue of the waters. Boats can enter the largest cave, where you can dive in for full immersion.
12. Kefalonia: Kayak secret coves
The biggest Ionian island, mountainous and green like a vast turtle’s shell, is surrounded by cliffs and coves — including the deep blue Melissani Cave on the east coast — and many of them are only accessible from the sea. In a kayak, you can paddle between the beaches at leisure, or embark on a longer guided trip, staying in inns on the way. For a challenge of a different kind, drive 1,628m up Mount Ainos, the highest peak in the area, for an eagle’s-eye view of the Ionians.
Melissani Cave in Kefalonia is a stunning natural wonder, known for its underground lake and striking blue waters.
Photograph by Discover Greece
13. Samothraki: Meet the Great Gods
Samothraki, in the far northeast Aegean, is a small island with a mythical past. The Greek sea god Poseidon is said to have sat on Mount Fengari here — at 1,664m, the second highest in the Aegean — to watch the Trojan War, while in ancient times, numerous pilgrims would make the difficult voyage here to worship at the Sanctuary of the Cabeiri, or Great Gods. Now in ruins, this temple complex was home to a mystery religion, and very little is known about its secret rites. Anyone, from kings to slaves, could be initiated, and historical figures are thought to have been members — among them Philip II of Macedon, father of Alexander the Great. After, head to the village of Therma, a 10-minute drive along the coast to the east, for its hot springs and nearby waterfalls so bucolic, you’d almost expect to come across a nymph.
14. Lemnos: Explore a Greek desert
It can be difficult to believe that, in among the pretty harbour towns, the Greek islands are also home to one of Europe’s only deserts. Pachies Ammoudies, on Lemnos, one of the largest islands, resembles the Sahara on a smaller scale, its soft dunes constantly shifting with the wind. The best way to explore it is by hiring a 4WD in the capital, Myrina, and heading out at dawn or dusk, when the sand takes on an orange glow. Myrina itself was named after the Queen of the Amazons — the island is believed to have once been the home of the warrior women visited by the Argonauts — and you can spend hours exploring its traditional coffeeshops and colourful harbour. Also don’t miss the ruins of Poliochni, a settlement thought to be older than nearby Troy on the Turkish mainland.
Lemnos has colourful harbours — and Greece’s only desert.
Photograph by Discover Greece
15. Ikaria: Dance until dawn
Ikaria, in the far east of the Aegean, is closer to Izmir in Turkey than Athens. It is known for lying in a Blue Zone — an area where people have a longer, healthier life expectancy — with about one in three living into their 90s. The list of potential reasons is long, ranging from the healthy local diet to the lack of stress, but visit this island between May and September, and it’s likely you’ll discover one more — nobody wants to miss the next paniyiri. The island’s saint’s day festivals happen almost daily in different villages. Fuelled by the island’s heady natural wine, they involve all ages dancing in unison together — placing their hands on each other’s shoulders and spiralling in time to traditional violins. When you’re partying until dawn, it can be easy to lose all track of time.
16. Lesbos: Discover the ouzo effect
Ouzo, Greece’s favourite anise-flavoured spirit, is largely produced on Lesbos, with its traditional villages and gnarled olive groves, where 16 dedicated distilleries work to make over half of the national supply. And for fans of the spirit, Plomari, on the south coast, shines like the North Star — it’s here that travellers can find the Ouzo Museum, and learn about the drink’s history and the variety of Greek herbs that go into making it, alongside tours of the copper stills. Each brand is different, and some are difficult to find beyond the island, so it’s also where you’ll find the best opportunities for tastings. Order with water on the side to observe the famous ‘ouzo effect’ — despite both liquids being clear, when combined the result turns milky-white.
17. Santorini: Sip volcanic wines
This island may be best known for its vertiginous villages on the edge of the caldera, but it’s also one of Greece’s top wine producers. Because of its volcanic soil, Santorini was spared from the lice epidemic that decimated Europe’s vineyards in the 19th century, and its indigenous white grapes, Assyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani, flourish, their vines pruned to resemble baskets to protect them from the wind. The resulting wine is bone dry and mineral rich — but you can also find the naturally sweet Vinsanto here, made from sun-dried grapes to produce a tipple that was popular in the Middle Ages. Try both kinds at the Santo, the island’s largest cooperative in Pyrgos. Or visit the organic Hatzidakis estate, located inside a cave.
Blooming bougainvillea cover the village of Pyrgos, once the capital of Santorini.
Photograph by Manuta, Getty Images
18. Syros: Listen to Greek blues
Rebetiko, known as the Greek blues and often featuring soulful lyrics on migration, poverty, misfortune and unrequited love, has roots in the years of mass unemployment following the Greece-Turkey Population Exchange in 1923. One of the genre’s greatest composers, Markos Vamvakaris, came from Ermoupoli on Syros, and live performances still ring out from bars on balmy nights here, especially during the summer Rebetiko Festival. Visit Ermoupoli itself, the neo-classical capital of the Cyclades, with its Catholic and Orthodox hilltop neighbourhoods, marble-paved Miaoulis Square and opera house. Don’t miss its speciality loukoumia (Turkish delight), introduced to the island by refugees from the then-Ottoman ruled islands of Chios and Psara.
19. Sifnos: Cook like a Greek
Sifnos is where the father of modern Greek cuisine, Nikolaos Tselementes, was born in 1878. The island’s specialities are worth looking out for, with chickpea stews and braised lamb mastelo still slow cooked in the traditional way in stoneware pots. Learn some of the island’s recipes by helping to prepare a typical meal at Narlis Farm, just outside Apollonia, where farmers have produced organic fruit and vegetables for generations according to traditional Cycladic methods, using very little water. Sifnos is exceptionally pretty, with the whitewashed villages Apollonia, Artemonas and Kastro, sandy beaches with seaside churches, and landscapes dotted with chapels, crisscrossed by miles of trails.
Visitors can learn Greek cooking at Narlis Farm in Sifnos. The farm has grown organic produce for generations.
Photograph by Issy Croker
A plate of fresh local cheese and vegetables o Sifnos.
Photograph by Issy Croker
20. Tinos: Embark on a food weekend
In recent years, Cycladic Tinos has become famous among Greeks as an island of gastronomy. Blessed with fertile land and a resulting bounty of locally grown produce, it’s a magnet for chefs from nearby Athens, who’ll often leave their city restaurants in the warmer months to head here. Tinos Food Paths, a festival of gastronomy celebrated each year in the second week of May, marks the beginning of the season of indulgence. Come to join in the summer feast: start the morning sipping silty Greek coffee with a crispy filo pastry; recharge mid-afternoon with an acai bowl of wild strawberries; and round the day up trying local specialities, from fourtalia — a fluffy omelette made with potatoes — to louza, the island’s spice-cured pork.
(How to plan a food weekend on the Greek island of Tinos.)
21. Milos: Stay in a syrmata
Volcanic Milos is an island of colour, with rock formations in shades of red, yellow and blinding white. Similarly bright doors and windows adorn its traditional syrmata — the huts found only around Milos and neighbouring Kimolos, carved into the soft volcanic cliffs by fishermen sheltering their boats for the winter. Some have been converted into quirky places to stay — a bit cramped, with just a bed and bathroom, but right on the water’s edge. On land, seek out the catacombs (the only ones on a Greek island), the ancient theatre and the replica of the Venus de Milo, marking the spot where the original was found.
Sarakiniko beach on Milos, with its moonscape of white rocks, could have been designed by Dalí.
Photograph by SHansche, Getty Images
22. Naxos: Find the marbles
Fine, white marble has been quarried and sculpted on Naxos since prehistoric times; the archaeology museum, in the Venetian castle on top of Naxos Town, is packed with remarkably well-preserved marble Cycladic idols from 3200-2300 BCE, smoothed with the island’s native emery. Elsewhere on the island, giant kouros (naked male youth) statues, carved in the 6th century BCE, were abandoned when flaws in the marble were discovered: today, two lie near the quarries in Apollonas. Naxos has a relaxed and family-friendly vibe, with walking trails and swathes of sand south of Naxos Town.
23. Agistri: Snorkel in clear coves
Less than an hour from Athens’ port city of Piraeus, Agistri is the smallest of the inhabited Saronics. Surrounded by twinkling waters, its pine trees cling to the cliffs that curl around its mainly pebbly beaches. Aim for the little peninsula of Aponisos, with its turquoise coves perfect for snorkelling, just a short bus ride from Skala and Megalochori, Agistri’s main towns. Or head out with Interdive and sail in its traditional wooden ship to the uninhabited islet of Dorousa, whose fish-rich waters and shipwrecks are exciting terrain for experienced divers.
24. Poros: Wander in a lemon forest
Poros is so close to the Peloponnese that the 400-metre-wide channel separating the two is nicknamed Greece’s Grand Canal. A favourite past time in pretty Poros Town is lingering in a waterfront taverna and watching all the ships pass by, including ferries zipping across to Galatas, a port town on the mainland. Near there is a lemon forest that becomes intoxicating in May, when the trees are in bloom and the citrusy scent drifts across the channel on the breeze. For a perfect day out, hike up to the pretty blue-and-white clocktower in Poros Town for views over the lemon forests.
25. Spetses: Get to know Bouboulina
Thought to be the world’s first female admiral, Laskarina Bouboulina, who grew up in Spetses, raised a small fleet during the Greek War of Independence in the 1820s and won Greece’s first naval battle aboard her flagship, Agamemnon. Her bronze statue stands near the harbour, and now her descendants run the charming Bouboulina Museum in her former mansion — where she was assassinated in a family dispute. Pine-clad Spetses later became the summer retreat of wealthy Athenians and, in 1914, was the first Greek island to get a hotel, the luxurious Poseidonion Grand Hotel, which still dominates the harbour today. The rest of the waterfront, still bristling with cannons, is filled with neoclassical former captains’ mansions, villas, black-and-white pebble mosaics and horse-drawn carriages. Visitors can cycle to the beaches — many sandy — and later dine in the bars and restaurants in the Old Harbour.
The pretty island Spetses was once a retreat for wealthy Athenians.
Photograph by JRNY Magazine. AWL Images
26. Aegina: Trace ancient Greece
Outside of Athens, surviving ancient peristyle temples are rare in Greece, but you can find a beautiful one just an hour from Piraeus by ferry — the Temple of Aphaia, on Aegina. Isolated on a pine-covered hill overlooking the island’s biggest beach resort, Agia Marina, the temple was built around 500 BCE — decades before the Parthenon. Sadly, like the Parthenon, it was stripped of its marble friezes by antiquarians, inspired by Elgin, who shipped them to Munich. Aegina has many other feathers in its cap: pretty Aegina Town, the first capital of Greece, where the scent of roasting pistachios fills the air. A remnant of this can be explored at the Archaeological Site of Kolona nearby, which contains the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, and a neighbouring archaeology museum. The ruins of another former capital, Byzantine Paleochora, can be found to the east above Agios Nektarios, one of the biggest churches in Greece, built for the most recent Greek Orthodox saint, who died in 1920.
Perched on top of Aegina’s hillside, the two-and-a-half-millennia-old Temple of Aphaia offers impressive Doric architecture and panoramic vistas.
Photograph by zoom-zoom, Getty Images
27. Hydra:
At first sight, looming into view as the ferry approaches its harbour, Hydra might seem like any other Greek island: fluttering white-and-azure flags, whitewashed houses, busy tavernas. Except the B&B owners who gather beside its dock, ready to pick up visitors and whisk them to their premises, don’t wait in their cars, like they would elsewhere. This mountainous island, off the east coast of the Peloponnese, is entirely pedestrian. Even bicycles are banned, thanks to a 1950s law that sought to keep it as it’s always been — a labyrinth of alleys to be explored on foot, by boat or, better yet, in the saddle. As you discover hilltop monasteries, cliffs paths and sandy beaches, you’ll find it’s a destination where the journey really does make the experience.
(How to explore the car-free island of Hydra, Greece.)
28. Skopelos: Hike wildflower trails
The emerald sea reflects the pine trees covering Skopelos, a serene island of pebble-strewn coves that’s great for walks and views. Near the town of Skopelos, piled high in the shadow of a Venetian castle, wildflower-dotted trails lead to six Byzantine monasteries on Mount Palouki. You can also hike to the Sedoukia, a collection of Neolithic tombs, or to the wedding chapel of Agios Ioannis — of Mamma Mia! film fame — perched high on a rock overlooking the sea near the island’s second town, Glossa.
Photograph by Saso Novoselic, Getty Images
29. Skyros: Meet Skyrian horses
Isolated from its sisters, Skyros has a whitewashed capital, Chora, that curls around a castle-crowned crag overlooking a vast beach. The northern half of the island is wooded, while the wild, rocky south is where a few of the last little Skyrian horses roam. Introduced in the fifth century BCE by Athenian colonists and isolated ever since, they’re the descendants of the horses depicted in the Parthenon Marbles. With only around 200 left, they’re one of the rarest breeds in the world.
30. Skiathos: Hit the beach
Cosmopolitan Skiathos, beside Skopelos, owes its popularity to its 62 beaches, which offer a stretch of sand for every taste. Koukounaries and Vromolimnos are best for watersports, while Aselinos is ideal for those after a quieter time, with just a few places to eat. Lalaria, meanwhile, is spectacular and silvery, and Kechria, with its sunbeds amid the olive trees, is perfect for a lazy afternoon punctuated by lunch in the taverna. As the sun sets, pretty, fun-loving Skiathos Town buzzes into life.
Skiathos has 62 beaches, catering to every type of traveller with its diverse coastal offerings.
Photograph by Discover Greece
31. Alonnisos: Enjoy aquatic adventures
From May to October, boats head out on day trips to explore the waters off Alonnisos, which is part of Europe’s largest marine park. Here, endangered monk seals are protected along with dolphins and over 80 species of bird. Experienced divers can tour the ‘Parthenon of shipwrecks’, a fifth-century BCE vessel laden with amphoras that sunk off the coast of nearby islet Peristera and now forms the core of Greece’s first underwater museum.
When to go:
July and August are the most expensive and busiest months in which to visit, as well as the hottest, when temperatures can hit 40C in the afternoon. April, May, June, September and October are milder (average temperatures range from 18C to 27C) and less crowded but they can also be wet. It’s generally warm enough to swim in the sea from May to October; if you can choose, May, June and September are the best months to go.
How to do it:
Greek island specialists include Sunvil and Olympic Holidays, while Jet2 and Tui also offer packages and Much Better Adventures has active itineraries. Responsible Travel has a number of sailing trips.
More info:
Visit Greece
Published in the April 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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