Initial aging has improved many 2021 Bordeaux wines

Initial aging has improved many 2021 Bordeaux wines

Aerial view of Saint-Emilion

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After an initial tasting of Bordeaux vintage 2021 wines in the spring of 2022, I recently re-tasted some to see how two years of aging impacted their development and quality.

Afterwards, I compared notes and scores from these two separate tasting sessions.

Generally—original conclusions derived from the first tastings still hold: that in a vintage that was not as consistently of elevated quality as that of 2018, 2019 or 2020, many wines from 2021 in Bordeaux often show brilliant acidity. Subtle flavors of lighter red fruit are now emerging—buoyed up by that same shining acidity.

Comparing subjective numerical ‘scores’ out of 100 points, it appears that roughly a fifth of the wines (18%) improved over two years, whereas some 10% receded slightly in overall quality. These percentages remain similar for both right and left bank wines.

Notes on wines are below. A few wines only tasted in 2024 have also been added.

Château La Marzelle. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. 2021. 94 points.

Delicate floral and red fruit aromas that include wild strawberries and raspberries. A clear and light bodied mid palate rich with fruit. Still young. Mild tannins, brisk acidity. Complexity emerges after minutes in the glass—a deft and easy drinking wine to consider pairing with shish kebab or even sashimi.

Château La Dominique. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. 2021. 92 points.

From the Clément Fayat family. Bright, soft red fruit aromas with some earth and minerality. Quite a sizzling mid palate of acidity and some light raspberries with a hint of licorice and tannins on the finish. Pair with teriyaki beef, or a bulgur and green pepper vegetarian dish.

Château Laroze. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. 2021. 93 points.

Balanced, crisp, elegant aromas that include chocolate wafers and cherries. Fruity mid palate and a slightly tannic finish. Relatively linear but easy drinking. Pair with a clafoutis dessert of a teriyaki beef main course.

Chateau de Ferrand. Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe. 2021. 94+ points.

Sweet aromas of red cherries. Bright acidity, supple tannins. Surprisingly delicate with textured flavors of red fruit. Light enough to pair even with seafood.

Château de Pressac. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé. 2021. 95 points.

Ripe fruit aromas. Rich, soft, balanced mid palate of fresh sliced red and black cherries and some shortbread biscuits. Layered and lambent. Juicy acidity, quiet but firm tannins. Well made classic expression of Saint-Émilion.

Saint Emilion road sign, Bordeaux, France

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Chateau Montlabert. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 94 points.

Red fruit and dry forest aromas. A still young wine with firm tannins and a layer cake of flavors that include chocolate, red cherries, acorns and mint on the finish. Well integrated, balanced and complex.

Château Tour de Pressac. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 90 points.

71/16/9/2/2 blend of Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/ Cabernet Franc/ Carménère/Malbec from Jean François and Dominique Quenin. Still young and somewhat tight with tannins. Aromas of black currants and black pepper. Linear mid palate; rounded on finish.

Château Tour Saint Pierre. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 94 points.

Aromas—florals, earth, pine, red cherries and white flowers. Chewy, grand, integrated billowing flavors that include red and dark plums and raspberries mid palate and butterscotch brownies on the finish. Signature 2021 vintage bright acidity and light red fruit. Tannins assertive thought in no way dominant. Pair with lamb or salmon or a fruit and vegetable tajine.

Château du Parc. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 96 points.

From American owner Tom Sullivan, this 80/20 Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend includes clean and precise aromas of gorgeous black berries, red cherries and strawberries, as well as oranges, ripe fresh peaches and After Eight mints. Complex and complete. A full, juicy, soft, elegant mid palate of rich ripe red fruit and some Dutch licorice and mocha on the finish. Pair with wild fowl or a caramel dessert.

Château Fleur de Lisse. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 96 points.

Full, balanced, assertive aromas that are layered and delightful, including red plums, red cherries, orange sorbet and some turf. Opulent mid palate brimming with bright red fruit, some mint, and jumping acidity with an elegant finish that includes flavors of an orange chocolate bar. A lively layer cake.

Château Petit Val. Muse du Val. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 94 points.

Balanced and focused aromas that include soot, smoke, mint and red licorice. Herbaceous and subtle mid palate in this 50/50 Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend.

Château Magnan la Gaffelière. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 92 points.

Balanced delicate young red fruit aromas that include red cherries, raspberries, peaches. A light and bright red wine, somewhat in the style of Beaujolais. Mid palate includes red fruit, and the finish is a little dusty but attractive. Pair with goulash or salmon.

Red grapes, Saint-Émilion, Gironde, France

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Château du Paradis. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 97 points.

Initially restrained aromas of red plums, red cherries and shortbread. Classic, hearty, delicious Saint-Émilion blend with a multi-layered mid palate that includes cocoa, blueberries, cherries and plums. Balanced tannins, fruit and acidity. A well integrated and delicious package.

Château Monlot. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 94-95 points.

Soft, wholesome, bright and cheerful aromas of red and black cherries and fresh plums. Balanced, layered, complex with elegant fruit mid palate and some subtle black pepper and spice on the finish. Pair with Szechuan beef or truffle pasta. Classic yet mildly restrained Saint-Émilion.

Châteaux Croix de Labrie. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 96-97 points.

The difference in quality ratings likely derives from having tasted the wine too cold in 2022. Heightened, complex and engaging aromas of black and red cherries, some flint, turf and balsamic. A rodeo of flavors that include raspberries brownies. A delicate and flavorful mid palate that is both darkly seductive—as in dark fruit, and openly engaging—as in light red fruit. Layered and multidimensional. The blue clay below Croix de Labrie vines always provides unique flavors. Scintillating acidity and a dark fruit dazzle in this wine with finesse, stamina and cordiality. Pair with smorgasbord of meats and cheeses.

Vignobles Jade. Fontfleurie. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 95 points.

Brisk and precise fruity aromas that include white peaches and red cherries and some chocolate cookies. A balanced, supple and elegant red wine with a mid palate of juicy fruit and lively acidity. Clean and crisp flavors.

Château Castel. La Croix de Montlabert. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru. 2021. 95-96 points.

Flint and red fruit aromas. Dark plums, some licorice, bramble and wet earth. Quite the uplifting and elevated mid palate that sings with flavors of blackberries, raspberries, red plums—a fruit salad pumping out flavors. Bright acidity well integrated with fruit; firm but low key tannins. Pair with a hearty beef dish or with a cherry parfait dessert. Layered and scrumptious.

Château Petit Val. Margo Cuvée de Coeur. Saint-Émilion. 2021. 96 points.

From the Alloin family, this is 100% Cabernet Franc includes earthy, gripping, give me another glass set of aromas that also include cherry pie. Succulent mouthful of a layer cake of flavors—brownies, candy cane, red licorice and cranberry juice. Soft, delicious acidity, firm tannins in this delightful wine. Pair with lightly cooked red meat or poultry, and let the flavor of this wine dominate the meal.

Couple looking at view within Saint-Émilion, Gironde, France

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Vignobles Jade. Bien-Amiée de Fleur de Lisse. Saint-Émilion. 2021. 93 points.

Aromas include salt, red hot candies and ferns. Light and bright in mouth. Silky acidity and crisp flavors of raspberries and light fruit.

Dame de Boüard. Montagne Saint-Émilion. 2021. 96 points.

From Coralie de Boüard, this includes beautiful, balanced and integrated fruit aromas of black cherries, red cherries, red currants and tobacco. A rich, layered wine with a fine tannic backbone and a crunchy mid palate. Shines out among wines from a challenging vintage.

Château Clos de Boüard. Montagne Saint-Émilion. 2021. 93 points.

Crisp aromas bulging with red fruit that includes plums. A full and well rounded and balanced mouthful of flavors such as red plums and raspberries. Brisk tannins and bright acidity and the taste of sliced peaches on the finish.

Vieux Château Palon. Montagne Saint-Émilion. 2021. 95 points.

75/25 Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend. Sizzling, jumping aromas of red and black cherries. A juicy and bright wine with clean acidity, firm but quiet tannins and ebullient fruit flavors. Complex and integrated. Consider pairing with a strawberry dessert.

Clos Bel Air. Pomerol. 2021. 94 points.

OMG set of Pomerol aromas from old vine Merlot and some Cabernet Franc. Aromas include a dizzying dose of red cherries and spearmint. Bright acidity and minerality in the mouth, as well as crinkling texture and lush red fruit in this generous wine. Pair with charcuterie or with a dessert flan.

Château Clos Beauséjour. Pomerol. 2021. 92 points.

Quiet aromas that include licorice, smoke and mint in this 100% Merlot. Subtle fruit flavors melded onto an acidic background.

Château Ángelus. Grand Vin Blanc. 2021. 93+ points.

This wine was tasted for the first time in 2024. The 60/20/20 blend of Chardonnay/Sauvignon/Sémillon is made from grapes that grow at altitude on clay limestone in the upper reaches of the Castillon region of Bordeaux. Aromas include honey. An elegant delight in the mouth with lush tropical flavors, suave succulence and jumping acidity and minerality. Only 2,000 bottles produced.

Le Lion de la Fleur de Boüard Lalande de Pomerol. 2021. 94 points.

Aromas of black cherries and wet ferns. Still young tannins, though well integrated with flavors that include blackberries. Slight dry mint on the finish. Consider pairing with filet mignon.

Château Haut-Surget. Lalande-de-Pomerol. 2021. 92 points.

Earth and turf aromas, as well as seashells and red cherries. Young, mildly tannic with slivers of ripe young red fruit such as raspberries. Clean acidity, focused tannins. Brilliance of red fruit pokes above other aromas and flavors. Pair with goulash.

Château Sergant. Lalande de Pomerol. 2021. 89-90 points.

Merlot dominant wine. Gushing and generous and layered aromas of red cherries, black cherries, some pine and brownies. Mid palate fruity though somewhat taut still with tannins. Finish includes pine and nuts.

Typical vineyard near Pomerol, Gironde, France

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Château La Fleur de Boüard. Lalande de Pomerol. 2021. 94 points.

Bright and balanced bouquet of beautiful red fruit that includes red and black cherries as well as toffee and tobacco. Complex and rich on the nose. A vivacious drop of raspberries and red cherries mid palate enveloped in zinging acidity. Complex, with acidity overshadowing tannins. Pair with a soufflé or a rare tenderloin steak.

Château de Carles. Fronsac. 2021. 89-90 points.

Still tight with tannins, though includes attractive fruit aromas. Black fruit in the mouth. Young but with promise.

Château Gaby. Fronsac. 2021. 94 points.

80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Rich and delicate and complex aromas of red and black cherries and tartan biscuits, mocha and tar. Complex and bright and elevated red fruit flavors mid palate and a lingering acidic finish with slight citrus. Pair with sauteéd trout or a lemon meringue dessert.

Château Plain Point. Fronsac. 2021. 89 points.

Ripe red cherry aromas. Mid palate of red fruit and tannins; quite an acidic finish.

Château de Carles. Haut-Carles. Fronsac. 2021. 93 points.

Crisp red fruit aromas, as well as some peat and black licorice. A rounded mouthful of bright acidity and red fruit. Somewhat tannic on finish, but overall well balanced. Pair with grilled pork chops.

Fronsac vineyard, Gironde, France

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Chateau Plain Point. 2021. (White) 93 points.

Fresh, tangy and energetic aromas that include tropicals such as grapefruit. Clean and clear acidity mid palate. Pair with fish, such as Dover sole.

La Fleur de Boüard Sauvignon. 2021. 95 points.

Soft but also crisp aromas that include pine and tropicals. A tangy, layered, balanced, lively and well integrated white in the mouth with white fruit flavors such as peach. Consider pairing with sashimi.

Château Tour de Bellegarde. 2021. 93 points.

Rich, generous aromas of red fruit as well as sultanas, peaches, orange peel and brownies fresh steaming from the oven. Red licorice and red plums mid palate, menthol on the finish. Balanced, smooth tannins.

Row of wine bottles in a cellar

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Château Tour du Pas. Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion. 2021. 92–93 points.

Luscious red fruits and florals—cherries, raspberries, cranberries and roses. Pronounced and assertive, though soft. Fresh acidity, quiet flavors, soft tannins. Peach and plums mid palate and some black licorice on the finish. Has not yet developed compelling complexity, but that likely will come in a few years. A sort of Fleurie meets Nero d’Avola—light and soft red flavors with a hearty and beefy backbone. Pair with magret du canard duck breast or Szechuan beef with green peppers.

Château Moya. Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. 2021. 92 points.

Herbaceous first nose, though amalgamating with sweet red cherries and slight mint aromas. A light and linear mid palate of raspberries and mocha cookies with juicy acidity on the finish.

Vignobles Jade. Château La Loubière. Bordeaux Supérieur. 2021. 93 points.

Hefty aromas of minestrone soup, forest, cherry drops and ferns. Quite the singing and bright mid palate that sparkles with acidity and red fruit. Delicate and still assertive. Fluffy and mildly complex red fruit and some macarons on the finish. Sweetly delightful.

La Fleur de Boüard. Chardonnay. IGP 2021. 93+ points.

Grapefruit and flint aromas, as well as lime and lemon. Full, rounded, balanced and delicious mouthful. Serve as an aperitif or pair with sashimi.

La Fleur de Boüard Chardonnay 2021, Gironde, Bordeaux

Tom Mullen

Château du Rosaire. Bordeaux Rouge. 2021. 93 points.

Deep aromas of dark fruit. Firm tannins. Well structured with gripping acidity and balanced with subtle red fruit mid palate. A juicy and easy drinking delight. Pair with a beef stew or poultry with mango cous cous.

Château Les Clottiers. Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. 2021. 91 points.

Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Luc Schweizer. Light red fruity aromas as well as some earth and wet ferns. Delicate and also robust, with a light raspberry mid palate and a meaty finish. Pair with a curry or wild fowl dish. Balanced and easy drinking.

Vignobles Luc Schweitzer. Château Bourdieu. Absolu. 2021. 92 points.

A 79/17/4 blend of Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec aged for 18 months in oak. A supple wine with a firm tannic backbone. Compact aromas that include blackberries and smoke. Mid palate flavors of licorice and molasses and dark fruit. Integrated but young. An independent wine seeking no approval from standard regional tastes. Bravo!

Château Bourdieu. No. 1. Grand Vin de Bordeaux. 2021. 91-92 points.

A right bank blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. Strong aromas of succulent dark fruit including black cherries, black berries, earth and eucalyptus. Crisp acidity, easy mid palate of black fruit and a lingering finish of butterscotch and hazelnuts. Pair this with a bonaffi pie or truffle pasta.

Château de La Chapelle. Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. 2021. 89-90 points.

Also from the Schweitzer family, this Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend is a deep dark colored wine with aromas of earth and ferns. A bright mid palate of light red fruit and morels and a still tannic finish. Bright acidity.

Château Bourdieu. Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. 2021. 91+ points.

A blend of Merlot and two Cabernets from Luc Schweitzer and sons in Blaye on the right bank. Light, bright, fluffy and pronounced aromas of rich red cherries and raspberries. Clean, clear fruit mid palate and brownies on the finish. Balanced and delicious wine. A lighter, softer, more approachable Bourdieu than ever made by the producer before, with almost Beaujolais like tannins and bright acidity.

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