Hand raking wild blueberries in Northern Maine with the Passamaquoddy Tribe. (2022)
Mascha Davis
Guess what? The fresh blueberries you buy at the store are not wild blueberries. My fascination with wild blueberries began as a child when I stumbled upon them while wandering the woods. Unlike their cultivated cousins, true wild blueberries grow naturally without human intervention, thriving in the harsh climates of northern Maine and parts of Canada. Research shows that they naturally grow in barrens created by glaciers 10,000 years ago. These berries spread underground through rhizomes, forming dense, low bushes. They are smaller and burst with intense, nuanced flavors that make each bite unique as it is delicious. If you’re curious about trying them, you’re in luck! Blueberry season is upon us starting late July.
In the summer of 2022, I was introduced to the wonders of the true wild blueberry— a serendipitous encounter that led me on a journey to northern Maine with the Wild Blueberry Association of North America. There, I had the privilege of hand raking wild blueberries alongside the Passamaquoddy. This experience deepened my appreciation for these resilient berries and the people who have cherished them for generations. I spoke to Holli Francis, the product manager at Passamaquoddy Blueberries to get more insights into their rich cultural heritage and unwavering commitment to sustainability. Here are 5 things to know about wild blueberries and the voices who have been stewarding the land for thousands of years.
Historical and Cultural Significance
For the Passamaquoddy people, wild blueberries are more than just a source of sustenance; they are a cornerstone of cultural identity. “The Passamaquoddy way of life was to hunt, fish, trap, and gather food and medicine, and employ the environment’s natural resources to sustain their communities” Francis says. Historically, these berries were consumed alongside abundant seafood reflecting the tribe’s deep connection to their coastal environment. The name “Passamaquoddy” itself translates to “people who spear pollock,” highlighting their intimate relationship with nature. Wild blueberries were also used as a form of medicine, a practice now supported by scientific evidence showing their high antioxidant and anthocyanin content. Additionally, these berries served as a dye for sweetgrass used in basket weaving and other crafts, showcasing their multifaceted role in Passamaquoddy life.
A bunch of ripened wild blueberries. Wild blueberries have intense blue coloration and an intense … [+] blueberry flavor. Shot on Canon EOS M50.
Chrissy Tracey
Sustainable Harvesting Practices
The Passamaquoddy Tribe has long employed sustainable practices to ensure the longevity of wild blueberry plants. Unlike traditional farming– where soil is disturbed– the tribe allows these hardy plants to thrive naturally in the rocky, dry barrens of Maine. Harvesting is done without planting, preserving the natural landscape. The tribe manages their 2,000 acres on a biennial cycle, harvesting 1,000 acres each year to allow the plants to rest and regenerate. Off-year burning of fields promotes regeneration and reduces pests, a practice that aligns with modern sustainable agriculture principles.
Sacred Connection and Community Gathering
Every year, hundreds of Passamaquoddy people as well as other Wabanaki tribes of all ages gather to harvest, share, strengthen and connect with their communities– the annual wild blueberry harvest is a sacred tradition. “It’s a short harvest – just four weeks – but it is important for many tribal members to feel a connection to Earth’s bounty,” says Francis. During the harvest, they gather to hand-rake blueberries, a method passed down through generations. I had the opportunity to try it out and I can tell you first-hand that it certainly isn’t easy! It requires patience, skill and technique. Some skilled pickers can fill up to 50 crates of wild blueberries a day.
Passamaquoddy Tribe members teach the new generation the ancestral practice of collecting wild … [+] blueberries.
Chrissy Tracey
At the end of the day, this event is more than just a harvest; it is a time for community, connection, and cultural preservation. Despite historical challenges and encroachments, families come together to strengthen bonds and maintain traditions, passing it down for the next generations to come. The harvest symbolizes resilience and the enduring strength of the Passamaquoddy culture. Like many Indigenous tribes of North America, they have faced substantial loss of their ancestral lands to colonization in addition to dealing with cultural suppression and economic hardships. “The wild blueberries remain strong. Families join us at our barrens for a sense of community, connection and a feeling of centuries past.” says Francis.
Organizations such as the Wild Blueberry Association (WBA) have largely centered Indigenous voices alongside their efforts to fund further research into the wild blueberries and beyond. As a result, they are making significant strides when it comes to preserving Indigenous knowledge and encouraging folks to eat wild and partnering with companies like Wyman’s to get them into the hands of as many people as possible. This year, the WBA is hosting their fourth annual Wild Blueberry Weekend where folks can tour wild blueberry farms, pick wild blueberries and learn all about the origins of the fruit. They’ve even partnered with venues such as the Bissell Brothers to spread the wild blueberry joy and knowledge by offering menu items such as blueberry pie ice cream, or corn pudding with blueberry compote.
Traditional wild blueberry hand pies prepared by a Passamaquoddy tribe member. (2022)
Chrissy Tracey
Economic Impact and Tribal Sustainability
Wild blueberries play a crucial economic role for the Passamaquoddy community as they were among the first to harvest wild blueberries and have been doing so for over 1,000 years. The tribe’s ownership of the Passamaquoddy Wild Blueberry Company (PWBC) allows them to reinvest profits into the business, creating jobs for tribal members and supporting community initiatives at Pleasant Point and Indian Township. This economic model fosters self-sufficiency and ensures that the benefits of wild blueberry cultivation are felt directly within the community, reinforcing the tribe’s commitment to sustainable development and cultural preservation.
The economic impact extends beyond just job creation. The PWBC’s operations provide full-time, year-round, and seasonal jobs for Passamaquoddy Tribe members, contributing significantly to the local economy. By maintaining traditional practices and adapting to market demands, the company has managed to remain economically viable while honoring cultural traditions (Maine Made)
Challenges and Opportunities
Despite their deep-rooted practices, the Passamaquoddy face challenges in maintaining and promoting wild blueberry cultivation. The market is flooded with cultivated and non-domestic wild blueberries, driving down prices and threatening the viability of traditional hand-raking methods. However, the tribe is addressing these challenges through innovation and education. A USDA Value-Added Producer Grant in 2020 enabled the development of a brand for their wild blueberries, giving them control over their story and market positioning. “We ventured to create our own brand of wild blueberries, giving us control over our story – we can share not only the importance of wild blueberries to Maine but the importance of this incredible fruit to Maine’s First Nations” says Holli. By promoting the superior antioxidant content and cultural significance of wild blueberries, the Passamaquoddy are creating a niche market that values sustainability and indigenous heritage.
This grant also allowed the Passamaquoddy to find ways to strike a balance between using technology to their advantage while also preserving their hand-raking traditions. Like many others in the agricultural industry, they are beginning to explore the use of AI and other advanced technologies in their blueberry farming practices. The hope there is to be able to enhance efficiency and sustainability. AI technologies are now being developed to identify and manage weeds more effectively in wild blueberry fields which limits unnecessary herbicide use, and at the sorting facilities, advanced sorting machines can use AI to sort berries by size and detect and remove defective berries more efficiently. More on that later.
Wild blueberry fields in Northern Maine. Both the leaves and the berries of wild blueberry plants … [+] range in color. Sometimes you’ll find berries that are so intensely blue they appear black, and other times you’ll find some that appear more red in color. Shot on Canon EOS M50 (2022)
Chrissy Tracey
The Passamaquoddy’s approach to wild blueberry cultivation is a testament to the power of tradition and sustainability. By sharing their story, we can all learn valuable lessons about respecting nature, preserving cultural heritage while advocating for Indigenous rights and supporting sustainable food systems.
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Copyright for syndicated content belongs to the linked Source : Forbes – https://www.forbes.com/sites/chrissytracey/2024/06/28/wild-blueberries-a-journey-through-time-and-tradition-in-maine
