Shayne Oliver has to be one of fashion’s most elusive characters. Since announcing the relaunch of Hood by Air in 2020, the designer has been teasing a number of projects: First was “Prologue,” the HBA capsule modeled by Naomi Campbell; then came a preview of his eponymous ready-to-wear label at New York Fashion Week in February of last year, followed by Anonymous Club, the creative studio/fashion label/talent incubator he formally introduced last year. Coming soon is an art exhibition in Berlin, where he recently moved. These projects have neither a defined cadence nor abide by industry schedules (their calendar is “undefined,” in Olvier’s words). They arrive when Oliver is ready.
A year after its first drop, Oliver is back with the second installment of Anonymous Club, and with it some newfound structure. When we spoke over the phone about this collection, Oliver said he realized he needed to give “more definition” to Anonymous Club in order to make space for people to participate in it. “I’m working to create more clarity, that’s part of what this campaign is about,” he said. He was referring both to this lookbook, which features the designer Stefano Pilati, and to a campaign the label dropped last week on Instagram, which stars Telfar Clemens, Raul Lopez, and Patia Borja, who also appear in this slideshow as cutouts. “Anonymous Club is about friendship and camaraderie with people that share like-minded ideas,” Oliver said, explaining that itt differs from his eponymous label in that it is a collaborative space and a potential launching point for concepts, next-gen creatives, and more.
The lineup itself is a tightly edited collection of staples with the Shayne Oliver twist in a limited color palette consisting of black, beige, and neon green (plus clear vinyl). There’s the pagoda shoulders Oliver often presented at Hood by Air, his usual club-ready leather jackets and trousers, and a run of oversized utility jackets. More interesting are a t-shirt with its shoulders raised to hide the neck but sloped to the regular shoulder apex, and a flared skirt with two jacket sleeves as part of the front drape. To Oliver’s credit, as pervasive as the Hood by Air aesthetic he and Lopez introduced a decade ago is today, his clothes are imbued with a certain authenticity. Sometimes there’s nothing like the source.
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