Asked how he feels about being called one of the standard bearers of the stealth-wealth-normcore ignited by HBO’s Succession, Brunello Cucinelli sounded unfazed. “Fashion is like a pendulum, it goes back and forth every decade or so,” he said at his spring presentation. “Now the spotlight is on us, but we’ve always stayed put, out style has never budged. It’s fashion that has actually caught up with us.”
Spring was another chapter in the Cucinelli playbook of ‘staying the same while always slightly adjusting to changes.’ It’s a mindset that has served him well. “I’m happy that finally the idea of being well dressed, with no logos and less showing off, isn’t anathema anymore.” Cue a collection that was Cucinelli-esque through and through: relaxed in attitude but soignée, soft in proportions but neat in cut, with plenty of versatile, deceptively low-key tailoring.
This season, high-end natural fabrics were slightly more textured; delicate, unobtrusive paisley prints were also introduced on light-cotton classic shirts. The palette of neutrals that is one of Cucinelli’s trademarks was further lighten up by gentle pastel tones; the same light feel was also perceptible on casual pieces, treated with equal sartorial ease.
Cucinelli may be dismissive of being part of the ‘quiet luxury club,’ yet he could rightly be granted honorary membership. The proof is that he isn’t keen on the word ‘luxury.’ He prefers ‘quality.’