Rather than fixating on a specific muse, as he has done in recent seasons, Huishan Zhang drew inspiration from ’90s coming-of-age films for his pre-fall collection. He explained during a preview, “I was looking at movies like Cruel Intentions and 10 Things I Hate About You, noticing that each character’s wardrobe reflected their personal growth.” The designer emphasized the significance of self-expression and his desire to explore the act of dressing for young individuals as they transition into adulthood, as well as the viewpoint of adults embracing a sense of youthfulness.
While the designer showcased his versatility in crafting daytime pieces, his panache for elegant cocktail attire shone through. This was evident in denim sets embellished with crystals, sharply tailored broderie anglaise suits, and smart tweed jackets adorned with frayed edges and ornate buttons. Lightweight neoprene was crafted into a range of separates, including bolero jackets, tailored pants, and boned A-line dresses. Tulle dresses took the form of tiered polka dot gowns and mini dresses featuring floral embellishments and corset details at the bust.
Zhang also paid homage to his Chinese heritage by incorporating cheongsam-inspired dresses, which were fashioned from silk satin in a variety of intricate cuts, showcasing couture-level piping and embroidery. There was an inherent lightness throughout the collection, accentuated by the choice of pastel hues, from baby blues to delicate pinks and lilacs.
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