Namilia is stronger than ever. After a few seasons in New York, the brand showed at Berlin Fashion Week for the third time in a row. The only problem that the designer duo Emilia Pfohl and Nan Li have is how to accommodate the crowds of fans who all want to attend. This time they chose a disused subway tunnel, which was able to offer what felt like miles of front row seating for their nearly 600 guests. Hardly any other German brand can boast such a strong and young fanbase—only a handful of people weren’t wearing Namilia or at least emulating the provocative look with other clothes.
The unrestricted view added to the atmosphere, as cheers echoed through the long runway. Clothes-wise, Namilia hit exactly the same note as in previous seasons. It was dirty, but delicious. Vulgar, but in an uplifting way. Fake fur and leather were in abundance. Mini dresses and micro tops were paired with gigantic coats, while “I Love Ozempic” and “Fashion Junkie” slogans (some in rhinestones) provoked with a wink. The sex-positive and daring vibe was underlined by the most diverse cast of the season; models served with personality, exaggerating every turn and pose.
In terms of both theme and music, the collection brought the 2000s and early 2010s back to life, focusing on the tabloid scandals and paparazzi images that shaped the era’s celebrity culture. Instead of flirting with their onetime Ed Hardy obsession, Pfohl and Li decided to make it official with a collaboration. A short message on Instagram got the ball rolling and the Ed Hardy team sent boxes of deadstock. “We were never big fans of upcycling, but here we had all the possibilities and so many materials that we were able to realize everything uncompromisingly in the way we dreamed of,” Pfohl said backstage. Since many of the unusual designs will remain one-offs, a reduced selection will be available to buy in just a few weeks. Makes sense: food should ideally be served while it’s hot, and this collection was sizzling.
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