Just a little over a month after showing his fall 2023 collection in September during New York Fashion Week, Sergio Hudson presented 14 looks for a spring 2024 capsule collection. Hudson, who has been operating on a see-now, buy-now schedule for the past few seasons, is returning to the traditional calendar. “I just feel like when we came out of COVID everyone had this fresh idea that we were going to be see-now, buy-now,” Hudson said of the change. “I stepped out there and did it, but I feel like I was kind of out there by myself…. Doing this capsule collection was our way to get back on track.”
As a result of the tight timeline, Hudson was designing his 1970s-inspired fall collection at the same time as his spring capsule, which has an ascetic color palette of white, camel, and champagne, with one leopard outlier. That’s not Hudson’s typical M.O. “Fall was so heavy and dark, I wanted a palate cleanser,” he said. “I’ve given them all the colors they need for the moment, so I thought, maybe they need some neutrals from us.
But aside from that, it’s a fairly standard encapsulation of Hudson’s ethos. He was thinking about his client, who summers in the Hamptons or Martha’s Vineyard but is still taking meetings and working during the week. She would need lightweight suiting, like a three-piece set in white denim; a tailored knee-length sleeveless light brown dress; flared and wide-leg trousers; and blazers. For weekend parties: an Italian cotton eyelet full skirt and matching top, or a bias-cut slip dress. Jury’s out on whether this powerful woman would wear the white hot-pants, but on the runway they serves as a reminder that this was a fashion show, after all.
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