“Supers” are back in the pop culture lexicon, fueled by numerous documentaries and a fashion industry immersed in ’90s nostalgia. In Paris, runways are still emphasizing some of those ’90s vintage looks alongside exaggerated ’80s power suits — the prevailing trend of the season. Here’s the latest from Paris Fashion Week:
Schiaparelli pulls no punches
Maison Schiaparelli, owned by Tod’s Group chairman Diego Della Valle, recruited models such as Shalom Harlow, Amber Valletta, and Kendall Jenner to walk the show. Her sister Kylie Jenner sat in the front row alongside Rosalia, Jared Leto and Michelle Yeoh, who all showed up to watch Hollywood’s favorite red carpet brand evolve under the talented Daniel Roseberry. This season was no disappointment, featuring molded, gold-capped Converse-esque sneakers and ultra-bold jewelry — accessories that are guaranteed to be fan favorites. The maison’s signature surrealistic flair of sparkles and feathers and motifs like the lobster and keyhole were a nod to ’80s and ’90s dressing in the vein of precision and power.
Live it high like Loewe
It seems like JW Anderson’s Loewe has resonated well with global and Chinese fans alike. This season was all about reduction and minimalism; while the slouchy, oversized knits were playful and cocooning, the devil is clearly in the details with accents like huge metal pins across pant and skirt fronts, pinned-up hemlines and ultra-high waists. Gemstone sculptural tops brought a sense of escapist glamour to a lineup full of deconstructed home comforts and elevated workwear-inspired looks.
Long, lean elegance at Givenchy
Under Matthew Williams, Givenchy is bringing sexy back with long gloves and thigh-high stockings. With Chinese supermodel Liu Wen closing the show, the brand offered up razor-sharp lines, suits, conservative hemlines, severe cuts and streamlined eveningwear. Although there’s plenty to hanker over in this slinky and sexy lineup, we’re hoping for more drama next time around.
Hearst exits Chloe with bravado
Cool frills, sculpted florals, and a palette of white, black and sunshine yellow: Chloe’s last presentation under Argentinian designer Gabriela Hearst was a celebratory affair rather than a wistful one as Brazilian samba dancers (and Kelly Rowland) took over the runway in a joyful display of freedom. Purity and clever curvature (in both shape and colors) underpinned a collection that was fresh, positive and lighthearted, with Western saloon dressing, rounded big sleeves and lovely floor-length summer gowns as highlights.
Carven’s new chapter
For her debut as Carven’s new creative director, Louise Trotter revealed a structured yet light collection. This included fresh touches, such as backless jackets and square-toe mules, and elements reminiscent of Phoebe Philo-era Celine. Easy, breezy hues and sheers, underpinnings and bold ’80s shouldered suiting made for a minimalist play on office wear — very much in line with this season’s theme of precision.
Lanvin’s slow revival
Lanvin, owned by Chinese Lanvin Group (formerly the Fosun Group), is showing signs of revival. The Spring Summer 2024 presentation paid generous homage to vintage house codes while infusing a contemporary, effortless spirit, recalling the specific French glamour of its heydays during founder Jean Lanvin’s era.
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