Out of Nike’s hundreds of collaborators, no one has quite reimagined the brand’s instantly-recognizable footwear to the success of menswear designer Martine Rose. Ever since the Air Monarch sneaker was given sci-fi-esque lumps and bumps back in 2018, the London talent has become known for her ability to completely revamp world famous silhouettes.
The latest Shox Mule MR4 sneakers, worn by Kendrick Lamar at the Grammys earlier this year, maintain that avant-garde reputation, from the raised heel to the squared toe and electric colorways. Set to be released on July 25, the tailored Spring/Summer 2024 collection that features the footwear is already a hit online, predicted to sell out.
In this week’s Collabs & Drops newsletter, we spotlight Martine Rose x Nike, as well as luxury brands expanding the possibilities of product design via collaboration.
Fendi has invited Japanese architect Kengo Kuma to broaden its design opportunities and leverage more sustainable production, while Korean, Gen Z eyewear favorite Gentle Monster has teamed up with fellow surrealist name D’heygere, embracing the latter’s jewelry expertise.
Read on for the full verdict on these brand collaborations. To receive these updates to your inbox every Tuesday, subscribe here.
Martine Rose x Nike
Footballer Leah Williamson stars in the 2023 Nike x Martine Rose campaign. Photo: Nike
Date: July 25
Product: “Lost Lionesses” collection
Social context: On Instagram, Martine Rose’s official posts have over 21,000 likes, but Nike is yet to post about the collection to its 301 million followers.
Verdict: Since 2018, Martine Rose and Nike have established a fruitful relationship with frequent collaborative releases, always fronted by distinctly avant-garde sneakers.
For context on their success, the last Nike Shox MR4 Mule is currently selling at a 83% price premium on global resale platform StockX. The new design is likely to reach a similar level of success.
Partly fueled by her established association with Nike, Martine Rose’s namesake label has become central to the new-era fashion scene, as houses like Gucci and Balenciaga fade in relevance. Capitalizing on her growing popularity, the London designer is Clarks’ first guest creative director, announced earlier this year.
As a result of her fanbase in luxury fashion and streetwear alike, the collection has been trending across global press outlets. It’s being released ahead of the FIFA Women’s 2023 World Cup in Australia and New Zealand, with the campaign starring much-adored Nike football ambassadors Leah Williamson and Rachel Yankey.
Fendi x Kengo Kuma
Fendi and Kengo Kuma collide for Spring 2024. Photo: Fendi
Date: Spring 2024
Product: Accessories and sneakers
Social context: Kengo Kuma’s Instagram posts have garnered over 10,800 likes. Fendi has not posted about the collaboration.
Verdict: Japanese architect Kengo Kuma proves the versatility of his craft and aesthetic vision, incorporating raw materials to design a Peekaboo, Baguette Soft Trunk, and Fendi Flow sneakers.
From washi paper to woven bamboo and wood chips, the collection allows Fendi to champion sustainability while benefiting from Kuma’s respected status in the design industry.
This pairing demonstrates one of the many ways creative industries can merge to reach new levels of design innovation.
D’heygere x Gentle Monster
D’heygere x Gentle Monster team up on blinged-out eyewear. Photo: Gentle Monster
Date: July 6
Product: Eyewear collection
Social context: The collaborative Instagram post between Gentle Monster (1 million followers) and D’heygere (34,000) has 21,200 likes so far.
Verdict: Gentle Monster has launched collaborations with Maison Margiela and stars like Cai Xukun, illustrating a multifaceted strategy that taps into various consumer bases.
D’heygere uses a high-end formula when it comes to collaboration, which feeds Gentle Monster’s position in the luxury market.
The two high-end brands share an element of surrealism in their design, making them a perfect match.
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