Interview with Ivy Karlsgodt
Photography by Ivy Karlsgodt
When Ivy Karlsgodt, owner of Ace of Shades, found herself temporarily unemployed during the pandemic, she turned to making vintage-style lampshades as a way to generate income and fuel her creativity.
Where did your love of creativity come from?
I remember making beaded jewelry in elementary school and falling in love with design. Then my grandmother taught me how to crochet and embroider. And in middle school, my other grandmother taught me the basics of sewing; she had always made clothes for me growing up and nurtured my interest in fashion. Soon I was designing and making my own clothes with her guidance.
How did that lead to a degree in costume design?
In high school, I designed and made costumes here and there for our plays and musicals. My first one was a sea-foam green Regency dress for our production of Pride and Prejudice. I also did all the alterations for each production’s costumes and ran the wardrobe crews. Costuming was a convergence of a lot of my interests—fashion, history, design, and literature—so I decided to go for a bachelor of fine arts in theatre design and technology with a focus in costume design. I attribute a lot of my advanced sewing skills to my costume construction professor, Jean Nelson.
What work did you do with costume design?
I got a lot of costume design experience in college and at a few internships, which helped me realize I was much more interested in the construction process. After graduating, I got a job at a costume shop called John Kristiansen, which makes costumes for Broadway, film, TV, etc. I learned so much in my three and a half years there and made some amazing costumes for productions like Six, Diana, Tina, Dickinson, Fosse/Verdon, and Tootsie. I even designed a costume for Cher once.
What was the impetus for turning to lampshade creation and reconstruction?
In 2020, I was laid off from my job temporarily and needed a creative outlet. I redecorated my room and decided that a vintage-style fringed lampshade would be an amazing addition. It was out of my budget, though, so I tried making one myself and ended up loving the process.
Did you know how to make lampshades, or did you teach yourself?
I learned a lot of my techniques from Mary Maxwell’s instructional DVDs on the subject. It was super easy for me to pick up given my sewing background; it’s similar to hat making, actually. It uses only one type of stitch, so it’s fairly simple but time-consuming.
When did you know this hobby was heading somewhere bigger?
I began selling my lampshades as a side hustle soon after I started making them, mainly to recoup the cost of materials. About a year after going back to work at the costume shop, I was getting so many commission requests that I realized there was no reason to keep overworking myself with two jobs. I eventually quit the costume shop and have been focused on my small business ever since. Honestly, I’m still overworking, but I love the freedom of being my own boss.
What’s your process when a client comes to you with a commission?
Typically, they either have a lamp that needs a replacement shade or want something new. Some clients have a lot of ideas and preferences, while others simply suggest a couple of colors and leave the rest to me. I always start by having them pick a shape and then move on to their color and fabric preferences. Once I have all the needed information, I draw a preliminary design.
What fabrics do you typically use? Is there a certain era you are most often recreating?
I usually use silk charmeuse as a base layer, sometimes with China silk beneath to help opacify it, and layer fabrics like pleated silk chiffon, lace, burnouts, and netting over top. Sometimes I’ll use vintage kimono silk. I am especially drawn to Art Nouveau and Art Deco aesthetics; the latter is probably what I pull from the most.
How long does it take you to sew a lampshade?
Lampshades take me anywhere from five to thirty hours to complete depending on the design and size. The average is about ten hours, though. It all must be sewn by hand, so it’s a slow process. I make and sell about fifteen lampshades a month, including commissions.
How much do your custom lampshades cost?
The price can range from $300 to $1,000 (with occasional outliers) depending on the size, design, and materials used.
Is there a community of sewers you can turn to with questions about lampshades, or are you the expert?
Vintage-style lampshade making was popular as a hobby from the 1970s to the 1990s, so there are a lot of experienced lampshade makers out there. I’ve learned, and continue to learn, from many of them. New lampshade makers do frequently contact me, though, asking for advice about a lampshade they’re working on or requesting tips on certain techniques, and I’m always happy to help.
You’ve amassed over one million followers in a few years. Was it difficult to put yourself out there on social media?
Definitely! I never expected to grow the following I did. I’m a fairly shy person and hardly post on my personal media accounts, so being seen by so many people is very strange for me. Luckily, 99.9 percent of my followers are super sweet and supportive, so that’s helped me come out of my shell and feel confident about my work.
Does being an entrepreneur come naturally?
I’m really not business savvy at all. I’ve been picking things up on the job, but the administrative duties will never be my forte. Learning how to make this a sustainable and lucrative career for myself has been an uphill battle, and I’m still figuring it out, but the response to and demand for my work has been amazing.
For more info, visit aceofshades.co
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