The opening look at the Versace spring show was a 1960s shift worn with ballet flats—a fact that could’ve made headline news, as six inch stilettos are the norm in the universe of Donatella Versace. That svelte, dynamic vibe was what she picked up on for pre-fall. Her own way of dressing IRL—a luxurious cashmere coat in camel, cool cargos with a cashmere knit, a sharp-tailored blazer—served as a starting point for the collection.
“This is a very personal reflection of the pieces I love the most at Versace and wear every day and the pieces I like most in the men around me,” Versace said via email. Catching up with the current mood for less flash, there was a slight shift towards softer colors, while key archival templates were given a lighter feel of ease.
Strong tailoring anchored the offer from day to evening, with jackets cut cropped and boxy, often unlined for supple wearability without drawing away from the sexy vibe of Versace’s sharp construction. Skirts were kept short and sassy; volumes were also scaled down a notch to less oversized renditions, as in a greatcoat in Barocco jacquard curlicues, worn over a summer wool blazer and stone-washed loose denim pants. The coat looked straight out of DV’s (surely very capacious) closet.
A Donatella’s favorite, cargos took pride of place, rendered in feminine proportions in a variety of fabrications; dresses were hourglassy and shapely, with revealing cutouts. Conveying the brand’s hallmark racy allure, the star of the show was a cocktail minidress crafted in the signature silver metal mesh, usually part of the Versace Atelier collections and proposed here in a lighter but no less glamorous version.
Menswear focused on the same principles of strong construction: refreshed and lightweight. The denim offer was expanded, featuring sleeveless trucker jackets and slouchy cargos in washed denim. Since the skinny trousers moment is apparently over, wide pants were translated into a more formal silhouette. Voluminous trousers with a fitted jacket made for a new version of the powerful Versace suit.
For the record, that fitted jacket was one of Prince’s favorite pieces. A close friend of Gianni and Donatella, the pop megastar used to ring her and play music down the phone asking for her opinion. He attended several fashion shows over the years, composed the soundtrack for an Atelier Versace presentation at The Ritz in Paris in 1994, and also performed at the brand’s after-party in 2007, entertaining the crowd with fabulous nonchalance. Just imagine the thrill.
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