Travel
Home to the world’s tallest peak, this is a mountain range that none other can match — and you don’t have to be a hardcore mountaineer to go. From Everest Base Camp to Bhutan’s Tiger’s Nest, here are some of the best routes.
ByJoe Bindloss
Published October 16, 2023
• 9 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Draped across the very top of the Indian subcontinent, the Himalayas are the stuff of trekking legend. Every hiker worth their boots has likely dreamed of tackling this range’s trails, which carve out the craggy routes between remote villages and mountain monasteries, in the formidable shadows of the world’s highest peaks.
In the high-altitude valleys of Nepal, Bhutan and India, trekkers face sights that many may believe are reserved for mountaineers: the aquamarine lakes in their valleys, the alpine meadows dusted with wildflowers and the snow-capped mountains themselves.
And in the rugged landscapes between the peaks live bands of indomitable people — nomadic yak herders, enlightenment-seeking monks, mountain-climbing Sherpas. You’ll find culture in abundance here, too, whether you stay in local teahouses or trek off-grid. And there are ways for even beginners to experience all of this.
The reality is that with so many destinations to choose from, trekking in the Himalayas can be as challenging or as comfortable as travellers want it to be. On a camping expedition in Bhutan, supported by guides, cooks, tent-assemblers and even packhorses, trekkers are largely unburdened save for perhaps a camera or hiking poles. Meanwhile, at the opposite end, prize views are open to anyone looking for a real challenge and willing to do all the heavy lifting. Hardy trekkers can find the kind of solitude normally reserved for snow leopards in remote valleys, where the only sound comes from tinkling streams of meltwater and the soft breezes that drift down from the high mountains in whispers.
To help you make sense of the region, choose between two long-distance treks in Nepal or Bhutan, which are suitable for fit beginner or intermediate hikers, or try an easier introduction to the Himalayan foothills of India in search of rare birdlife.
Itinerary one: Everest Base Camp, Nepal
There are 14 peaks higher than 8,000m in the world, and eight of them are found in Nepal — including Mount Everest (Sagarmatha), which, at 8,849m, is the loftiest of them all. The two-week trek to Everest Base Camp takes breathless walkers to heights above 5,000m, with thrilling views every step of the way.
Highlights
1. Namche Bazaar
It takes two days to hike from the tiny mountain airstrip at Lukla to Namche Bazaar. This thriving amphitheatre of stone lodges gazes towards the lofty peaks, with ancient shrines, Gore-Tex gear shops, yak steak restaurants and even an Irish bar, where trekkers toast to their success after tiring days on the trails. Pause here for short acclimatisation hikes to the fascinating Sherpa villages of Khumjung, Khunde and Thame, where you can get a taste of local life.
2. Ama Dablam
Everest may be top dog, but 6,812m-high Ama Dablam is arguably the most perfect peak in the central Himalayas — an isolated sentinel almost mirroring the pyramid-topped Buddhist stupas that line the Base Camp trail. There are stupendous views of the snow-encrusted summit between Namche Bazaar and the Buddhist monastery at Tengboche.
3. Tengboche
The Buddhist monastery at Tengboche holds a special place in the hearts of visitors to the Himalayas. The resident monks have welcomed everyone from Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, the first to conquer Everest in 1953, to record-breaking Nepali climber Nirmal Purja. Millions of trekkers have also been drawn by its traditional architecture and vividly colourful murals. It’s one of the loveliest stops in the Everest region, with epic views over a ridge of snowy peaks and comfy lodges crowning a grassy plateau.
4. Everest Base Camp
The base camp used for ascents of Mount Everest is perhaps the most legendary trekking destination of them all. Amid scattered boulders and tooth-like pinnacles of ice, you’ll find mountaineers huddled around dome tents and satellite phones, acclimatising for the push to the summit. Grab a slice of hot apple pie from the world’s highest bakery before trekking downhill to the teahouses at Gorak Shep.
5. Kala Patthar
The summit of Everest is hidden from view at Base Camp, behind the rocky shoulder of 7,861m-tall Nuptse. For incredible vistas of the world’s highest peak, hike from Gorak Shep to the summit of Kala Patthar (5,645m) — a blackened crag with uninterrupted Everest views. It’s a breathless two-hour ascent to reach the top, but from here, the black summit of Everest stands clear of its companion peaks, rising majestically above the Khumbu Glacier.
Itinerary two: Jhomolhari, Bhutan
The Jhomolhari trek is to Bhutan what the Everest Base Camp trek is to Nepal. Rising through wind-scoured valleys, this week-long camping trek takes its name from 7,326m Jhomolhari, the sacred mountain abode of one of Bhutan’s five protector goddesses and the defining landmark on the route.
Highlights
1. Taktshang Goemba
According to legend, Taktshang Goemba — aka the Tiger’s Nest — was anchored to the side of a sheer cliff wall using the hair of angels. Perhaps Bhutan’s most famous monastery, here pilgrims chant mantras, prayer flags dance in the Himalayan breeze and prayer halls are adorned with legions of Buddhas and bodhisattvas (enlightened beings). The steep four-hour hike here from Paro is a perfect primer for the more ambitious climbs that await on the Jhomolhari trek.
2. Drukgyel Dzong
This ancient dzong (fortress) set high on a hill is en route to the starting point of the Jhomolhari trek, Sharna Zampa, and many trekkers still pause here to admire the view before lacing up their hiking boots for the main event. After a devastating fire in 1951, the ornate prayer halls and woodcarvings of the historic fortress are being restored using traditional Himalayan construction techniques that have been preserved through the centuries.
3. Jangothang
Reached via a two-day trek from Sharna Zampa, the campground at Jangothang sits around 750m below the highest point on the trail, with Jhomolhari’s summit rising at the end of the valley. Linger here for gentle acclimatisation hikes to higher viewpoints, turquoise lakes and the ruined fortress that once guarded traders moving between Bhutan and Tibet.
4. Lingzhi
The village of Lingzhi sprawls across a grassy valley speckled with yaks and wildflowers, with the face of Jhomolhari peering over its shoulder. This mountain outpost is dominated by a timeworn hilltop dzong, built to commemorate Bhutan’s victory over Tibet in 1667. It’s a soothing spot to rest or explore before the big push to the Yeli La.
5. Yeli La
Marked by a lonely cairn decked with prayer flags, and offering sweeping views over a rugged landscape, the highest point on the trek sits at 4,820m — it’s barely a small hill compared to the surrounding peaks, but still a draining endeavour at high altitude. Keep your eyes peeled for Himalayan blue sheep and marmots while you make the long descent onwards into the Wang Chhu valley towards Thimphu and your end point.
(A practical guide to hiking the Himalayas.)
Getting there
There are no direct flights to Nepal; the easiest connections are through Istanbul with Turkish Airlines or through Doha with Qatar Airways. Turkish Airlines has daily flights to Istanbul from numerous UK airports; Qatar Airways flies daily to Doha from London, Manchester and Edinburgh. Many airlines fly from Kathmandu to the starting point, Lukla, including Yeti Airlines.
Drukair and Bhutan Airlines fly to Bhutan’s Paro International Airport from Delhi, Kolkata, Kathmandu, Bangkok and Singapore. Numerous airlines offer connections. The Jhomolhari trek starts 10 miles north of Paro at Sharna Zampa — your tour agent will arrange transfers.
How to do it
Intrepid has 15-day guided treks to Everest Base Camp in Nepal from £1,043 per person. Flights to Kathmandu not included.
The Adventure People has 12-day treks along the Jhomolhari trek from £4,805 per person, starting and finishing in Paro. Packages include meals, tented accommodation, guides and hotels in Paro. Visas and flights to Paro extra.
Published in the October 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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