Gunbim Galleries in Kakadu

The coloured canvases at Main Gallery, Mabuyu, Namarrkan Sisters and Rainbow Serpent are all surprisingly vibrant, layered with contrasting motifs sometimes painted thousands of years apart. Pigments might be yellow (from limonite or goethite), white (from kaolin or huntite), black (manganese oxide) and the predominant, enduring, iron-rich red, some gathered locally or traded with distant tribes from the ochre-rich Red Centre. Typically these pigments were crushed on site, so eagle eyes might spot small, hollowed depressions in the rock slabs around Kakadu’s galleries.

If you reach Ubirr in that golden hour before sunset, make the rocky 250-metre climb to Nadab Lookout for vast, vibrant views across the floodplains. Over the peak winter months Ubirr opens from 8.30am until sunset, and if camping is part of your adventure, nearby Merl Campground is conveniently located with much-needed hot showers and private camping bays for $15 per person (half-price for kids).

The barramundi hunt

Down by the East Alligator River when the tide ebbs away downstream, 4WD travellers cross between Kakadu and Arnhem Land, traversing the low-slung concrete causeway at Cahills Crossing and stirring the muddy waters. The retreating water creates perfect hunting conditions, trapping barramundi on the upper side of the causeway and luring enormous estuarine crocodiles to haul out, warm up and spar for their share of the barramundi bounty.

This impressive spectacle rightly lures a crowd, and few other Top End locations bring estuarine crocodiles into such clear, close view. Anglers join the hunt too, gingerly casting from the causeway in murky, ankle- deep water, while far more sane travellers choose higher, drier ground for their shady riverside picnics.

Upstream, small-group boat tours with Guluyambi Cultural Cruise explore a rarely seen section of the river, and the Bardedjilidji Sandstone Walk weaves past dramatically sculpted 1500-million-year-old sandstone cliffs and art-filled caves. This is easily one of Kakadu’s best short walks, but we time it wrong and it’s hot as hell. The only other creatures braving the heat are the guilododo — chestnut-quilled rock pigeons — that whirr loudly into flight, so we seek out the shade of a sandstone fig tree and take in the rocky surrounds.

We find a small trackside cave adorned with rock motifs, and spy a hidden art scene, out of reach on a lofty ledge, that makes sacred one of the remaining outliers of the ancient Arnhem Plateau. Corkscrew woodland pandanus reach for the sky, and dark streams of wax on the cliffs betray the hives of native bees, magically conjuring up the “sugar bag” honey that Bininj foragers crave. This easy wander takes less than an hour, so there’s time to retreat to Cooinda Lodge to cool these hot heels poolside.

We are mere minutes away from enjoying chilly beers when I impulsively pull into Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. It’s not for the air conditioning, or the chance to blow some holiday spending money on traditional Bininj/Mungguy cloths and artwork, but for the questions still swirling around my head. A wander here helps to fill in some of the blanks, weaving the threads of my sublime natural experiences into a larger, more meaningful picture of all that this destination truly is.

Wake up by a billabong

Scenically perched on the edge of Yellow Water Billabong, Cooinda Lodge endures as a popular place to stay, with a baffling choice of rooms, luxury safari tents and campsites for all budgets. Over the years I’ve tried a lot of what’s on offer and consider it a solid choice for post-hike, poolside beers and fresh-cooked meals, and for its unbeatable location for boat cruises, right in the heart of the national park.

The popularity of Yellow Water’s sunrise cruises are an indication that they are right on the money, showcasing what it really feels like to watch a tropical Australian wetland and its wild things wake up. Blooming lotus flowers camouflage the crocodiles, attracting jabirus and brolgas, white-bellied sea eagles, and rainbow bee-eaters and bright azure kingfishers that feed on the wing. Wallabies emerge from beneath the paperbarks to sip nervously at the water’s edge, and wayward buffalos graze the grasslands beyond.

Most people visit Kakadu during the May to September dry season when the floodwaters have retreated and all roads and attractions are open. Shrinking waterholes bring animals and birds into conveniently close view, but the mild weather spells the time when crowds swell and room prices spike. My favourite time to visit is just as the wet season ends, for the chance to see waterfalls in full, thundering flow. You tread a fine line booking a trip at this time. Sudden late rains can flood roads and close access, but that just gives you an excuse to board a scenic flight and watch a big wet purging itself over the escarpment edge of Jim Jim and Twin Falls.

For its sheer size, kaleidoscopic natural diversity and the cultural experiences that will engage you, it’s pretty difficult to outrank a destination as vast and impressive as Kakadu. To stand beneath its tremendous sheer-drop waterfalls, float in its lofty rock pools, completely hidden from sight, and to watch wild things feeding on crocodile-filled billabongs are distinctly Top End experiences you’ll discover only in Kakadu. But more than memories, this place stirs deep, reverberating connections to nature, and these feel- good vibes endure long after the holiday is over.

Escape routes

Go Kakadu National Park is located 250km southeast of Darwin via sealed roads. Some destinations within the park are restricted to 4WD vehicles.

Visit Kakadu is at its best during the cool, dry season months (May to September). Arrive after the last of the wet season rains (April to May) to see Kakadu’s waterfalls in spectacular flow.

Stay Close to Yellow Water Billabong, book an Outback Retreat Villa at Cooinda Lodge from $409/night (peak season). Back-to-nature campsites at Ubirr’s Merl Campground, Djarradjin/Muirella Park (close to Burrungkuy/Nourlangie Rock) and Mardukal Camp (for Yellow Water exploring) cost $15/adult and $7.50/child.

Pack Hiking shoes, a hat, swimwear, a refillable water bottle, natural mosquito repellent and waterhole-friendly sunscreen.

Park fees During the May–October peak season, entry costs $40/adult, $20/child, $100/ family and $30 for concessions (valid 7 days, free for NT residents). Prices drop as temperatures and the rainfall increases, and from November to mid-May, entry costs $25/adult, $12.50/child, $19/ concessions and $65/family.

Be croc-wise Estuarine crocodiles are found throughout Kakadu, so obey signage and if in doubt, stay out of the water.