Published Apr 30, 2024 • 3 minute read
Sanding lightly between coats of urethane is key to a smooth finish on interior wood. Photo by Photo Robert Maxwell
Q How should I finish a thick piece of elm wood we want to add to an existing fireplace mantle? It came from a tree cut from our property and sawn into lumber.
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A Wood three or four inches thick can take a long time to dry. How long has it been since the log was milled? The only effective way to ensure sufficient dryness for finishing is by storing your wood in a fully heated space, perhaps for a year. As for finishing, you should start by sanding your wood to the same level of smoothness as the wood of your mantle. Apply interior wood stain , followed by a sealing coat to protect the wood against dirt. That said, there’s a danger. You never really know how a stained and sealed wood surface will look until the stain and all coats of sealer are applied.
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Ideally, you’d want to complete the finishing process on a scrap piece of the elm you intend to use. Only then would you go ahead and finish the piece you want to install. This is more work but it ensures you won’t have any unpleasant visual surprises.
Urethane is a great option for sealing in your situation, and I recommend a product with a satin sheen. This has almost no gloss and hides imperfections better than a gloss urethane. Most urethanes are water-based these days, and since this type dries so quickly it often leaves behind bubbles and brush strokes.
One of the few nonwater-based urethanes out there now is Varathane Pro Finisher. This is a solvent based urethane that makes it easy to get great results. If you’ve had trouble with urethane before, you won’t with this stuff. Apply one coat, let it dry completely, then sand very lightly with 220grit sandpaper, either by hand or with a 1/4sheet finishing sander. This is a key step. Vacuum all dust off the surface, then apply one more coat with no sanding afterwards.
Registered fungicides like Concrobium have been Independently tested and verified for effectiveness killing active mold growths. Photo by Photo Steve Maxwell
Household mould control
Q We’ve been told that we have mould in our attic. What are your thoughts on dealing with this, and how can be find a reputable company to clean things up?
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A Sometimes lumber in attics can have dark stains from mold that grew on the wood when it was piled up, and this type of mold is of no consequence. But in your case, what does the mold look like? Who told you about it, and what did they see?
The reason I ask is because professional mold abatement can be very expensive, and perhaps it’s not necessary in your case. Mould almost always grows because sufficient moisture is present on some food source like wood. No moisture means no mould. Have you had a leak in your roof that may be feeding the mould? Sometimes condensation can build up in attics and trigger mouldpromoting condensation in winter.
If the mould is localized to an area up to a couple of sheets of plywood in size, then you can deal with it yourself (or have a handyman deal with it). After stopping the source of moisture, treat the area with a registered fungicide. The best I know is called Concrobium. It’s an odourless, nontoxic liquid that you spray on moldy areas. It works by mechanically crushing the mold spores as it dries, so it does not rely on any compounds toxic to people or pets. Not only does Concrobium kill mold, but it helps prevent mould egrowth. If you have a massive mould issue in the attic, then a professional will be required, but only after the source of moisture is eliminated. You’ll probably need some kind of building professional for the moisture side of things, or a heating ventilation and air conditioning expert.
Steve Maxwell only likes mold in blue cheese. Visit him online at bailelylineroad.com and join 31,000 people who get his free email newsletter each week.
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