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Renée Kohlman: Sun-dried tomatoes bring out flavours of the fall

September 14, 2023
in News
Renée Kohlman: Sun-dried tomatoes bring out flavours of the fall
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“Sun-dried tomatoes are quite wonderful to have in your kitchen. They have a way of amplifying the flavour of anything they touch.”

Published Sep 14, 2023  •  Last updated 41 minutes ago  •  4 minute read

Sun-dried tomatoes. Sun-dried tomatoes. Supplied photo by Renee Kohlman.

With the smell of fall in the air, many of us have been busy pickling and preserving the bounty that summer has bestowed upon us.

I admit that my big canner did not get put to use, but I did manage to freeze jars of verdant pesto and ruby red raspberry jam. Every time I open the freezer door and see my small jars lined up in neat rows, I know there will be a time that I reach for them when snow is on the ground and I’ll be happy that I put the work into saving some summer for the future.

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And that’s really what preserving is all about — reminding yourself that summer will come again and here’s a little taste of it.

Tomatoes are one of the best things of summer, and if you’re lucky enough to have a surplus, you don’t have to only make salsa or sauce as a way to preserve them. I’m a major fan of sun-dried tomatoes, and while it sounds like more fun to dry them under the Tuscan sun, if this opportunity doesn’t exist for you, you can use your oven to do all of the work.

Sun-dried tomatoes are quite wonderful to have in your kitchen. They have a way of amplifying the flavour of anything they touch.

In my mind, they are like nature’s candy.

The slow drying process concentrates all of their lovely tomato flavour and locks in all of that summer sweetness. Each bite is intense and addictive. The potential downfall of drying tomatoes at home means that there is the likelihood of them being consumed directly from the baking sheet and none left for the refrigerator. But, as far as downfalls go, this is a good one to have.

The drying process couldn’t be simpler. Cut tomatoes in half, toss with olive oil and salt, then place on a baking sheet cut-side up. Heat and time will do the rest.

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Keep in mind that the smaller the tomato, the shorter amount of time required to achieve preferred dryness. Cherry/grape tomatoes need about five hours for par-dried tomatoes that are still juicy in the centre. Longer time means that they’ll be more dried out. If using Roma tomatoes, the time will increase, obviously.

This low-and-slow method of drying tomatoes has to mimic the sun, and rotating the pans every hour will ensure even dryness. Keep an eye on the tomatoes near the end of drying time so that they don’t burn.

When the tomatoes are dried, you can serve them on a charcuterie platter, toss into pasta, salads, or if they’re still a little juicy, they’re quite wonderful alongside eggs. If any remain, the par-dried tomatoes can be frozen for future use, and the super-dried tomatoes are super delicious when placed in a jar and covered completely with good olive oil.

At this point, they can be refrigerated for up to three months, or if you leave about one centimetre of space from the top, they can be frozen for up to six months. Chances are that the tomatoes will be long gone before then. Long live the tomato! Long live summer!

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Sun-dried tomatoes. Sun-dried tomatoes on a baking sheet. Supplied photo by Renee Kohlman. jpg

Oven Sun-Dried Tomatoes

2 pounds large cherry/grape or campari tomatoes
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt

1. Position the racks in the oven so they’re in the top and bottom thirds. Preheat the oven to 200ºF. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. Remove any stems from the tomatoes and cut each in half lengthwise. Transfer the tomatoes to a large bowl. Toss with the olive oil and salt.

3. Using your hands or a slotted spoon, place the tomatoes on the prepared baking sheets, cut side up and space them evenly apart.

4. Place the baking sheets in the oven and cook, swapping the baking sheets from top to bottom every hour or so, for about five to six hours, depending on how big the tomatoes are and how dry you want your tomatoes to be. The shorter time will yield a par-dried tomato with a juicier centre. A longer time will create dried tomatoes around the edges with very little moisture remaining in the centre. Let the tomatoes cool on the baking sheets until room temperature. Serve immediately or add to your favourite recipe.

5. To store the less-dried tomatoes, freeze on the baking sheet until solid, then transfer to an airtight container. Keep frozen for up to six months. Thaw before using. To store the very much dried tomatoes, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to one week. To rehydrate, add boiling water and drain. For longer preservation, pack the dried tomatoes in a jar, add enough olive oil to cover completely and store in the refrigerator for up to three months or freeze for up to six months.

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Sun-dried tomatoes. Sun-dried tomatoes. Supplied photo by Renee Kohlman. jpg

Renée Kohlman has been cooking and baking professionally for over 20 years. Her best-selling debut cookbook, All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions), received accolades at the 2018 Taste Canada Awards. Her second cookbook, Vegetables: A Love Story (TouchWood Editions), was named one of the top 100 books in 2021 by The Globe and Mail. Renée is often in her kitchen, baking gourmet cookies, which she sells at the Saskatoon Farmers’ Market every weekend.

With some online platforms blocking access to the journalism upon which you depend, our website is your destination for up-to-the-minute news, so make sure to bookmark thestarphoenix.com and sign up for our newsletters here so we can keep you informed. Click here to subscribe.

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