THE far-flung coastal town of Santa Ana on the northeastern tip of the Philippine mainland has long been known by tourists for its beaches, waterfalls, fireflies and a few casinos.
But that’s changing after the laid-back town of about 35,000 people, which still has no traffic light, became strategically important to America.
The United States and the Philippines, which are longtime treaty allies, have identified Santa Ana in northern Cagayan province as one of nine mostly rural areas where rotating batches of American forces could encamp indefinitely and store their weapons and equipment on local military bases under the Enhanced Defense Cooperation Agreement.
US Marines walk down a sand dune after a live fire exercise against an imaginary “invasion” force as part of the joint US-Philippines annual military Balikatan drills in Laoag on Luzon island’s northwest coast on May 6, 2024. US and Filipino troops fired missiles and artillery at an imaginary “invasion” force during war games on the Philippines’ northern coast on May 6, days after their governments objected to China’s “dangerous” actions in regional waters. Ted ALJIBE / AFP
Thousands of US forces withdrew from two huge Navy and Air Force bases in the Philippines in the early 1990s at the end of the Cold War, ending nearly a century of American military presence there. In recent years, Washington has been reinforcing an arc of military alliances in Asia to counter an increasingly assertive China, which it now regards as its greatest security challenge.
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That dovetails with Philippine efforts to bolster its external defenses after an alarming spate of territorial hostilities with Beijing in the South China Sea that started last year. The high seas confrontations have injured several Filipino navy personnel, damaged their boats and strained diplomatic ties.
The remote town of Santa Ana is caught in the geopolitical rivalry between Washington and Beijing because of its strategic location. It lies across a sea border from Taiwan, the self-governing island that China regards as a renegade province to be reclaimed by force if necessary. The US has vowed to defend the territory.
Some villagers in Santa Ana have expressed apprehension over the prospect of living near US forces. Their governor, Manuel Mamba, has vehemently opposed the looming US military presence, saying it would turn Cagayan into a military target of China.
Other villagers say the Philippines needs the Americans as a crucial counterweight to China, which they say has been using its military might to threaten Manila’s territorial interests in the South China Sea.
“There’s no choice. If you compare the number of our forces with that of China, they have much, much more,” Romeo Asuncion, a planning and economic development officer in Santa Ana, told The Associated Press. “If the Americans are here, they would protect us whatever happens.” There’s also the prospect of economic benefits and aid from the US military presence.
“If they donate a school that will be good,” Asuncion said.
Rowena Castillo, a consultant to the town’s mayor, expressed hope the wider attention on Santa Ana would boost tourism. She recently handed out brochures promoting the town’s beach resorts, waterfalls, a historic lighthouse, a crocodile-shaped island and an area that teems with fireflies.
Some villagers acknowledged that even without the US forces, the town would likely be affected in any major-power military showdown due to Santa Ana’s relative proximity to Taiwan.
Authorities and village leaders recently met at the initiative of the local military to discuss contingency plans, including the possibility of setting up emergency shelters for refugees, in case tensions between China and Taiwan flare into an armed conflict, Marion Miranda, Santa Ana’s disaster-mitigating officer, told AP.
“One problem is where we could bring potential refugees and the budget for that,” Miranda said.
In another rural Cagayan town southwest of Santa Ana called Lal-lo, part of the airport was designated as a possible encampment site for American forces.
Unlike the two massive military bases that American forces used to occupy, including a Navy base at Subic Bay that was about the size of Singapore and had a vibrant red-light district, the US military is building a new presence in a much smaller area within Philippine camps.
During large-scale combat drills called Balikatan — Tagalog for “shoulder-to-shoulder” — that ended Friday, Black Hawk and Chinook helicopters carrying allied forces, their weapons and other supplies landed and took off at the Lal-lo airport and the navy camp in Santa Ana. A few journalists, including from The AP, were invited to witness the combat maneuvers.
“It’s an important location. It’s critical because it is an EDCA site so it’s a very big deal to both the United States and to the Philippines,” US Marine Lt. Col. Matthew Schultz told journalists at Lal-lo airport.
“One of the challenges that we have in this airfield now is there is not a lot of parking space or taxiways or additional apron space in order to facilitate a lot of aircraft,” Schultz said.
The EDCA accord, which was signed in 2014, had an initial term of 10 years and has been automatically extended with both sides in agreement, Ambassador to the US Jose Manuel Romualdez said by telephone from Washington.
The agreement allows rotating batches of US forces to stay rent-free at the military sites and store their defense equipment — except nuclear weapons — there.
The US has allocated more than $82 million for the construction of ammunition and fuel storage, an urban combat training facility, aircraft parking, runway repairs and warehouses for humanitarian response items in the first five EDCA sites.
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