This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
With its glinting skyscrapers, narrow alleyways, lantern-festooned temples and neon-clad arcades, Tokyo is one of the most diverse and thrilling cities on Earth — but its sheer size can make choosing a hotel daunting. Over the past decade, accommodation options have broadened to include trendy ryokans (traditional inns) and indie hotels. Because there’s no single city ‘centre’ in the Japanese capital, you’ll almost certainly have to do some travelling — likely on the efficient metro system — to see its highlights, so don’t get overly hung up on location. Instead, think about what’s more important after a day’s sightseeing: an al fresco pool or a cool in-house bar.
1. Hoshinoya Tokyo
Best for: cultural immersion
Leave the city, and your shoes, behind as you step onto the tatami floors of this skyscraper ryokan. It’s a low-lit retreat of shoji screen doors and incense-scented air, with a second-floor lobby that includes a little salon for tea ceremonies. The 84 rooms are spread across the next 14 floors, with each level centred around a traditional ochanoma lounge serving teas, sake and house-made snacks. The rooms themselves are plush, with raised-platform futon beds, deep-soak tubs and jersey kimono-style pyjamas. An immense 17th-floor onsen-spa has hot spring waters pumped in from 5,000ft below the city streets, with a vaulted roof that leaves it part-open to the elements. The 10-table basement restaurant serves exquisite French-Japanese tasting menus and the in-room bento box breakfasts are highly recommended. Rooms: From ¥112,000 (£589), two-night minimum stay.
Each floor at HOSHINOYA includes a salon for guests to enjoy tea, sake and house-made snacks.
Photograph by HOSHINO RESORTS (Top) (Left) and Photograph by HOSHINO RESORTS (Bottom) (Right)
2. OMO5 Tokyo Otsuka
Best for: budgeting
In a skyscraper-cluttered metropolis, a hotel with an intimate, neighbourhood vibe can be a rare thing. Yet this branch of cool, affordable chain Omo, by Hoshino Resorts, has just that, packaged up in a modern building in the northern district of Otsuka. Cleverly designed rooms make the most of every square inch, with loft-style beds suspended above tatami mat seating areas and storage space integrated into walls and stairs. There’s also a laundry room on the fifth floor, where guests can wash and dry clothes for just a few quid, and an all-day cafe that transitions from breakfast space to coffeeshop to bar as the day progresses. Sign up for a local tour with one of the dedicated ‘Omo Rangers’, who will take you around the excellent local tempura and ramen shops — or even on an Otsuka bar crawl. Rooms: From ¥16,000 (£84).
3. TRUNK (Hotel) Cat Street
Best for: loft-style cool
This felt like an entirely new concept in Tokyo when it first opened in 2017: a design-forward boutique hotel with universally appealing NYC-style coolness. Seven years on, the concept has now been copied many times in the city, but it’s still hard to top the original in the shopping area of Shibuya, just off Cat Street. Its lounge, restaurants and shop attract fashionable Tokyoites as much as hotel guests, and its bedrooms come with a breezy, minimalist aesthetic. Some have balconies with hammocks while larger options, like the Dining Suite, include spaces such as a kitchen area or terrace. Don’t be surprised to see dapper couples heading for the rooftop; it’s a popular venue for city weddings. Rooms: From ¥51,774 (£273).
TRUNK (HOTEL) is set in the city’s trendy Shibuya area and is a hit with locals and visitors alike.
Photograph by TRUNK
4. Palace Hotel Tokyo
Best for: royal luxury
This elegant hotel in Otemachi has long been a favourite with well-heeled Tokyoites who come for the dining options and spa. It helps that it’s mere steps away from the Imperial Palace, the city’s most exclusive address, and close to the swish shops of the upmarket Ginza district. Good-sized rooms — some of them featuring balconies — overlook an expanse of moat-carved gardens. An extensive breakfast buffet has princely appeal thanks to elegant platings of grilled fish, pickled plums, rice and miso soup; if that’s not to your taste, there’s eggs benedict and croissants, too. The in-house restaurants also have the wow factor, with two Michelin-starred options: French-inspired Esterre, in partnership with Ducasse Paris, and Chinese-focused Amber Palace. Rooms: From ¥91,800 (£483).
5. ONE@Tokyo
Best for: solo travellers
In the east of the city, a 10-minute walk from the Tokyo Skytree observatory tower, One@Tokyo has a high-profile pedigree for a budget hotel, having been designed by Japanese starchitect Kengo Kuma. Functional yet not austere, its communal spaces — from the open lobby to the greenery-dotted rooftop — fuse industrial metallics with warm woods and a palette of unfussy greys. With their friendly price point and compact footprint, the lead-in standard semi-double rooms are perfect for solo travellers who want a step up in comfort and privacy from one of the city’s legendary capsule hotels. Long-stay discounts apply when booking for five nights, making it a perfect base if you’re planning day trips out of the city, too. Rooms: From ¥15,000 (£79).
6. Hotel New Otani Tokyo
Best for: amenities
More urban resort than hotel, this vast property — once a filming location for the James Bond film You Only Live Twice — occupies a verdant location between multiple parks in the central Chiyoda ward. The hotel is fringed by 10 acres of 400-year-old Japanese gardens and, unusually for Tokyo, also has an al fresco swimming pool. The 1,474 rooms are spread across three wings, and there are more than three-dozen dining options, plus a lounge with free nibbles and drinks for Executive House Zen guests. Rooms: From ¥36,000 (£189).
7. Shiba Park Hotel
Best for: bookworms
The printed page takes centre stage from the moment you walk in to this hotel, which houses a collection of around 1,500 books. As well as a double-height atrium lined with wooden shelves of books, there’s also a fireside library lounge and book corners on every floor, each themed around different aspects of Japanese culture. The rooms are comfy, contemporary retreats in which to curl up in with a good read — and the views of Tokyo Tower, lit up like a beacon at night, aren’t half bad either. Rooms: From ¥21,870 (£115).
8. Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo
Best for: families
With reasonable prices, a prime location near Shinjuku station and views out to Mount Fuji on a clear day, this option ticks a lot of boxes. Rooms are a bit bland (unless you plump for a suite with tatami mats and shoji screen doors), but for families, the spacious four-bed options more than make up for the uninspiring decor. On-site experiences such as tea ceremonies make getting a culture fix easy if you’re wrangling kids. The seventh-floor outdoor pool, 11 restaurants and laundromat also help. Rooms: From ¥35,200 (£185).
9. Hotel Groove Shinjuku, A Parkroyal Hotel
Best for: nightlife-lovers
For years, Shinjuku’s red-light district Kabukicho was rather sordid, the kind of place you’d head to for late-night karaoke and beers but not for a respectable hotel. All that’s changed with this recent opening, which reflects the fun of the city’s party heart but also has style and class. Set across floors 18 to 38 in the new Tokyu Kabukicho Tower, the rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over the neon bustle below, as well as electric-hued carpets and the occasional pop art wall mural. On the building’s lower floors, a retro-styled arcade, cinema, live music space and food hall with regional dishes keep the entertainment flowing around the clock. Rooms: From ¥31,000 (£163).
The all-day cafe at at Omo5 Tokyo Otsuka transitions from breakfast space to coffeeshop to bar as the day progresses.
Photograph by HIROFUMI INABA, HOSHINO RESORTS
10. Tokyo Station Hotel
Best for: European-style elegance
Opened in 1915, and set within the original 20th-century Tokyo Station, this grand hotel could have been lifted from London or Paris. Red bricks and soaring domes characterise the exterior; chandeliers, marble and button-back headboards are part of the old-world European opulence inside. Take tea in the high-ceilinged lobby lounge, ringing with live piano music and the clink of fine silverware, and end the day at the venerable Bar Oak, which serves up an array of Japanese whiskies in moody, wood-lined environs. If you’re planning to adventure beyond the capital, the location is unbeatable. Tokyo Station is the main Shinkansen (bullet train) terminal, serving popular destinations such as Kyoto and Osaka, and you can go from bed to boarding in mere minutes. Rooms: From ¥135,332 (£711).
Published in the May 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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