BySarah Riches
Published December 16, 2023
• 7 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Traditionally nomadic, Sámi people have been herding reindeer across Sápmi (Lapland) for 7,000 years, long before the region was divided into Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. Reindeer are integral to the Sámi way of life, yet the Indigenous people’s lifestyle is under threat from climate change, mines and cultural appropriation. Sweden is home to 20,000 Sámi, a fifth of whom roam with their herd around Laponia — a UNESCO World Heritage Site that stretches across Sweden’s Artic North. The others keep their customs alive by continuing age-old traditions and sharing stories about their heritage. Here are some exciting ways to explore their culture.
1. Cross-country skiing
Lennart Pittja, the Sámi owner of Sapmi Nature Camp, guides guests on cross country skiing expeditions in Laponia. “We’ve lived here 7,000 years and you can hardly see any trace of that,” he says. “I take visitors on to my ancestors’ land, but people need my eyes and knowledge to see the evidence of 7,000 years.” As Lennart follows in his forefathers’ tracks, he points out an abandoned Sámi settlement hidden beneath snow and spruce trees on the Lule River. All that remains is a cooking area and bell, as well as a boat that’s been left chained to a tree since the road was built in the 1960s.
2. Meet the reindeer
At Nutti Sámi Siida lodge and camp in Jukkasjärvi, guests ride reindeer-drawn sledges and feed the animals with lichen. Afterwards, Sámi guide Klara Enbom prepares nettle soup, smoked reindeer and lingonberry juice around a campfire in a lavvu tent, while explaining the discrimination Sámi face and how wind farms disrupt herding routes. nutti.se “We lure tourists in with reindeers then educate the shit out of them,” she says, only half joking.
3. Visit a Sámi museum
Scattered with birch and pine forests, Sápmi’s frozen landscape appears uninhabited at first glance. But those who know where to look find evidence of Sámi culture dating back millennia. A third of Sweden’s 300 glaciers are in Laponia, and as they melt, they reveal discoveries — a 400-year-old sledge, 1,000-year-old arrows, 5,000-year-old skis. Ájtte Museum in Jokkmokk delves into Sámi history, exploring spiritual beliefs, crafts and survival techniques through displays of handmade drums, traditional dress and a lavvu tent. It offers a fascinating insight into the Sámi way of life.
4. Shop for Sámi crafts
Buying handicrafts promotes the local economy in rural areas such as Jukkasjärvi. It also shows an appreciation of Sámi culture and keeps it alive. The village’s open-air Márkanbáiki Museum has a shop selling baskets, hand-carved kuksa cups and silver jewellery — believed to banish evil spirits. Guide Thea-Olivia Persson Fjallman says, “We use reindeer skin to make coffee bags, fur for boots and antlers for knives.” Knives are bent to make them easier to grip with gloves and all crafts are decorated. “As we were nomadic, we couldn’t carry beautiful things, so we made useful things beautiful.”
5. Fish through an ice hole
Arctic Retreat’s chef Emanuel Swärd helps guests fish through ice in Överstbyn, then cooks their catch. After studying sport fishing, Emanuel became a guide, won a world record for reeling in the longest perch and evolved into a fishing influencer. “Perch is the gateway drug to fishing as it’s so easy to catch,” he jokes. Using satellite images, Emanuel helps guests find deep, rock-free spots in the Råne River or Vitträsket lake, drill a hole in the ice then use glow-in-the-dark bait to attract Arctic char.
Top trips: Winter with the Sámi
1. Sweden
Watch reindeers race at the 400-year-old Jokkmokk handicraft market, go husky dog-sledding through spruce forest, snowmobiling on frozen rivers and take a moose-spotting safari on a trip to Swedish Lapland that also offers the chance to meet Sámi reindeer herders. From SEK 21,900 per person (£1,711) including a guide, activities and five nights’ full-board accommodation (except one lunch), with Laponia Adventures.
2. Finland
Experience ‘Lapland as a Local’ with specialist Arctic operator 50° North and you can try ice fishing, snowmobiling, cross-country or downhill skiing and a husky dog expedition, as well as a sleigh ride and a visit to a reindeer farm near Äkäslompolo. From €1,530 per person (£1,365), including activities, winter clothing hire, six nights’ accommodation, two lunches and airport transfers to and from Kittilä.
3. Norway
Learn to lasso, feed reindeer, cut firewood, listen to folky joik music and hear mythical tales from local storytellers. The Visit Natives Sámi Reindeer Herding Experience also gives travellers the chance to try getting around on wooden skis, drive a snowmobile and take a sleigh ride through the white Norwegian wilderness. From NOK 26,557 per person (£2,044), including guides, local transport, three nights’ accommodation, meals, camping supplies, winter clothing hire and airport transfers to and from Alta.
Published in the Winter Sports guide, distributed with the December 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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