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This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
The dining scene in Bucharest is evolving at a dizzying pace, with chefs in the city’s restaurants and bistros putting mouthwatering new spins on traditional dishes and local produce. From whey fish soup and smoked kohlrabi to desserts inspired by traditional costumes, here’s how a new Romanian cuisine is taking shape.
1. Kané: Pickled white radish & smoked kohlrabi
Romanian nouvelle cuisine is the order of the day at Kané, an atmospheric spot where dishes are about spectacle as much as flavour. Although it’s not a vegetarian restaurant, chef Cătălin Bejenariu showcases the versatility of the high-quality veg that abounds in Romania, with tasting menus that follow the seasons. Look out for creative dishes such as a rose of pickled radish that sits prettily atop a tart filled with smoked kohlrabi, dotted with chive emulsion and micro herbs.
2. Zexe: Carmen Sylva cake
At this chic brasserie, pastry chef Ana Consulea revisits historic Romanian cake and gateau recipes, as well as devising her own contemporary creations. It’s tough to choose which sweet treat to start with, but a good bet is the Carmen Sylva cake, named after the literary pen name of Queen Elisabeth of Romania. It was created in 1893 for the royal’s 50th birthday, but Consulea’s version features the additions of amaretto and hazelnuts in the mousse filling, along with the original coffee and chocolate flavours. The outside of this delicate dessert is stencilled with a design inspired by traditional Romanian costumes.
3. Dacia 25: Garlic mushrooms & fondue polenta
Dacia 25 is a small bistro that’s all about seasonality, provenance and classic homespun flavours. One of the most popular dishes is creamy polenta topped with mushrooms sautéed in butter, garlic and thyme. The cornmeal is cooked with milk and creme fraiche before three different cheeses are added to create a molten polenta-fondue hybrid. The mushrooms, picked locally, might be morels, chanterelles, boletus, or whatever else is in season. A grating of sheep’s cheese on top adds a mild, tangy kick.
(A guide to Bucharest, Romania’s underrated capital)
4. Noua B.A.R: Whey sturgeon soup
MasterChef Romania finalist Alex Petricean flexes his creativity at relaxed fine-dining spot Noua B.A.R., producing plates that incorporate unusual ingredients such as smoked creme fraiche, prune ketchup and pickled spruce buds. The storceag — a fisherman’s soup from the Danube Delta — is prepared with sturgeon (these days farmed, as fishing wild sturgeon in this area is banned) and whey, which adds creaminess and a satisfying tang. A drizzle of lovage oil, meanwhile, celebrates a herb popular in southern Romania, and thin slices of green chilli provide a hint of spice.
5. DeSoi: Asian steak tartare
A concept deli with a globetrotting menu, DeSoi serves fun dishes that may look simple, yet are anything but. It’s earned particular praise for its steak tartare, made with skill and top-quality ingredients, and available in three variations. There’s a classic version for the traditionalists, while the Romanian take features the addition of crispy beef-fat scratchings and barbecue sauce. The most exciting, however, is the Asian tartare, in which the meat is combined with fresh ginger, soy sauce and sesame oil, and features a flamboyant topping of crispy noodles.
6. Bucătăria.Localfood: COP
An acronym for cartofi (fries), oua (eggs) and Pleșcoi (mutton sausages), COP is the perfect plate of hearty comfort food. Bucătăria.Localfood is the brainchild of two brothers, Adrian and Gabriel Alexe, who have brought the cuisine of their home region — Buzău, at the foot of the Carpathian mountains — to Bucharest. The Pleșcoi — a PDO-listed combination of cleaver-minced mutton, garlic, paprika, winter savory and dried basil — are made by a neighbour in the village where the brothers were born. The fries, meanwhile, come topped with crumbled telemea de Ibănești cheese, parsley and a perfectly runny fried egg.
Published in Issue 22 (winter 2023) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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