This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Mexico’s sprawling capital is a gateway to the country’s Maya ruins, miles of beaches, rocky canyons and traditional Indigenous villages. But many travellers find the metropolis has an allure all of its own, and a handful of days can be well spent touring its neighbourhoods and historic centre. Mexico’s best museums are here, and its many galleries and markets help facilitate one of the strongest creative scenes in Latin America. Dig a little deeper to find the city’s pre-Hispanic roots, and discover how many customs are linked to the ancient Aztec and Maya civilisations.
1. Kayak the ancient canals of Xochimilco
Before the Spanish conquest in 1521, Mexico City, then called Tenochtitlán, was built on two small islands inside Lake Texcoco. The Aztecs built canals and floating farms called chinampas to feed its growing population. Today, all that remains of these ancient waterways are in Tláhuac and Xochimilco, a neighbourhood 15 miles south of Mexico City’s Centro Histórico. Flat-bottomed party boats called trajineras cruise Xochimilco’s canals daily, but a guided kayaking trip provides a more tranquil — and environmentally friendly — visit. Tours offer the chance to spot Xochimilco’s wildlife, including the critically endangered axolotl salamander and more than 200 bird species, while learning about the history and science behind chinampas, which still provide food for Mexico City residents.
2. Browse the Museo de Arte Popular
In the historic centre of Mexico City is the Museo de Arte Popular, a beautifully designed handicraft museum housed inside a 1920s art deco building. The museum, which once served as Mexico City’s fire department headquarters, celebrates traditional Mexican craft in all its forms, from textiles and pottery to children’s toys, furniture and giant alebrijes — mythical creatures made from wood or papier-mache. High-quality crafts from almost every Mexican state are displayed thematically over several floors, including ceramics from Jalisco, piñatas from Puebla and ceremonial masks from Chiapas. Particularly striking are the small but impressive Day of the Dead craft collection and the árbol de la vida (tree of life) pieces – colourful, intricate clay sculptures depicting the creation of life.
Museo de Arte Popular houses a large collection of handicrafts in Mexico City.
Photograph by Jeffrey Isaac Greenberg, Alamy
3. Sip on pulque, the drink of the Aztec gods
Pulque is a drink made from the fermented sap of agave, the same plant used to make tequila and mezcal. It has been drunk for more than 2,000 years, making it Mexico’s oldest alcoholic beverage. During the Aztec empire, pulque was considered a sacred drink, reserved for gods, emperors and ceremonial events. The introduction of beer and distilled spirits by the Spanish in the 16th century marked the beginning of the end for pulque, with many of Mexico City’s pulquerias — taverns specialising in the drink — closing between the early 20th and 21st centuries. But a recent resurgence has seen several reopen across the city, making it one of the best places in Mexico to try the tipple. La Canica — a pulqueria in the Tabacalera neighbourhood run by a family that has been in the pulque business for five generations — takes a modern approach to the ancient drink, infusing freshly made pulque with dozens of seasonal flavours, from guava and mandarin to marzipan and toasted oats.
4. Try Mexico City’s ancient caviar
Ahuautle — which loosely translates to ‘seeds of joy’ in the ancient Nahuatl language and are also known as ‘water fly eggs’ — were sacred to the Aztecs. During the rainy season, a type of water fly called axayácatl would lay its eggs in Lake Texcoco. These were harvested for Aztec emperors and used as offerings to the gods. Montezuma, one of the last emperors of the Aztec empire, is said to have eaten them every morning to improve his strength. Hard to get hold of and up to four times more expensive a kilogram than beef, the eggs have been dubbed ahuautle, the ‘caviar’ of Mexico, by the capital’s chefs. Only a handful of restaurants in the capital still serve ahuautle, one of which is Ayluardo’s — in the Iztapalapa neighbourhood, in the east of Mexico City. It serves the water fly eggs — which taste intensely fishy, similar to dried shrimp — in pancakes with tomatillo (a bright green, acidic fruit native to Mexico) and serrano chilli sauce.
Museo de Arte is Mexico City’s largest and best arts and crafts market.
Photograph by Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela
5. Support indigenous crafts at Mercado de Artesanías de la Ciudadela
Just a few minutes’ walk from Museo de Arte Popular is this hub for artisans, Mexico City’s largest and best arts and crafts market. It is home to 350 stands selling a huge variety of crafts, or artesanias in Spanish, from all over Mexico, including handblown glass from Jalisco, silver jewellery from Guerrero and patterned chaquira beadwork from Jalisco, crafted by the indigenous Huichol people. For beautiful ceremonial Mayan masks made of wood and obsidian, head to stand 104, where you’ll often see the craftspeople at work. Also seek out the artisans selling amate — colourful works painted on to paper made from the pulp of fig and mulberry trees; the same type of paper was once used by the ancient Aztecs and Mayas to produce manuscripts.
6. Experience Mexican folk dance at El Ballet Folklórico de México
Founded in 1952 by choreographer and dancer Amalia Hernández, Ballet Folklórico celebrates Mexico’s diverse folklore traditions through dance, music and traditional dress. The performances take audiences from Mexico’s ancient past up to the revolution in 1910, travelling through the states of Oaxaca, Jalisco, Sonora, Zacatecas, Guerrero and more. Many of the dances take inspiration from Mexico’s Indigenous cultures, such as the Deer Dance (a contemporary piece that depicts a pre-hunting ritual practised by the Indigenous people of Sonora and Sinaloa) and the Guelaguetza, a folkloric ballet inspired by the ceremonial dances of the Mixtec and Zapotec people of Oaxaca. Performances are held at the Palacio de Bellas Artes — a white-marbled, art nouveau palace commissioned by President Porfirio Díaz in 1905 — on Wednesdays at 8.30pm and Sundays at 9.30am and 8.30pm.
How to do it:
Journey Latin America offers flexible, tailor-made holidays to Mexico City and other destinations across Mexico. Its 12-day Highlights of Mexico City and the Yucatán trip starts from £2,230 per person, based on two people sharing and excluding flights.
Published in the May 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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