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Northern Thailand’s largest city has harnessed its artisan heritage to become a centre for contemporary makers and designers, many of whom now offer hands-on craft experiences for travellers.
ByLucie Grace
Published October 10, 2023
• 6 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
The capital of Northern Thailand has been an epicentre of craftwork for centuries. Before becoming incorporated into Siam in 1932, the Chiang Mai region —surrounded by the highest mountains in the country, dense jungle and rolling rice fields —was an independent entity, part of the Lanna Kingdom. The devout Buddhist Lanna province was known for detailed temple wood carving and terracotta clay work, ornate hill-tribe ceremonial silver production and incredible hand-woven textiles with patterns distinctive to each village. Today, Chiang Mai’s artisans continue the creative Lanna legacy, respecting their heritage while adapting creative wares for contemporary times.
1. Umbrella Making Centre
Among northern Thailand’s most iconic accessories, colourful paper parasols were once used by the well-to-do in the ancient Lanna Kingdom. Today, they’re a common local decoration and a favourite night market souvenir for travellers. Craftspeople have been making these delicate umbrellas for more than 200 years and, at this centre in Bo Sang village, a 30-minute drive from Chiang Mai, travellers can watch artisans at work or paint and decorate their own parasols to take home. From 200 TH (£4.50).
2. InClay Studio
As well as hosting studio sessions for fans, local ceramicist Jirawong Wongtrangan produces made-to-order art and homewares for Chiang Mai hotels, restaurants and collectors. Jirawong’s work is inspired by the area’s mountainous landscape and draws on the earthy palette found in local clay deposits: white porcelain hues from Lampang, to the east; yellow tones from Hang Dong, to the south; and pale browns from Mae Rim, in the north. Workshops at his large studio, just west of the walls of the old city, cater to everyone from complete beginners upwards. The studio team can arrange to ship your creations home to you. From 990 TH (£22) for a one-day class.
3. Nova Contemporary Jewelry
Wat Sri Suphan, a 16th-century temple almost entirely coated in silver, beautifully showcases Chiang Mai’s silversmithing heritage. Keeping tradition alive in a peaceful space east of the city’s ancient Thapae Gate, Nugoon Jaturanon teaches silverwork classes for beginners. The lessons on soldering and texture are inspired by the city’s past but focus on sleek, contemporary design. Suitable for those aged 12 and over. From 2,000 TH (£45)f or a one-day class.
4. Rada Loom
Master craftsman Khun Ong and his wife Rada run this revered textiles school and shop in Hang Dong district. As experts in different weaving patterns from the villages and regions of the wider Chiang Mai area, they can customise workshops and private lessons depending on participants’ tastes. Weaving classes are held in the bright, earthy studio space lined with looms of all sizes and varieties. Khun also makes looms to sell and runs a small store of handwoven bags, rugs and fabric homewares for those who prefer to shop rather than make. Pricing is bespoke, depending on the design and materials.
5. A Dang Home Studio
This charming garden studio a few minutes north of the city is run by two young fine-art graduates, Poom Chanavee Doungmanee and Pupah Puritchapat Platongkam. They’ve taken northern Thailand’s legacy of ornate teak woodwork and flipped it on its head, making it their mission to share the idea that woodcraft can be contemporary and versatile. Moving away from the typical elephant motifs popular in northern Thailand, the duo instead encourage travellers to design their own expressive sculptures and to use woodwork as a way to develop a connection with the forested mountains that surround the city. From 2,300 TH (£51) for a two-day wood-carving course.
6. Sunday Walking Street Market
A weekly staple for tourists for decades, the Sunday Walking Street was initiated over 30 years ago by the late Chao Duang Duen — the last princess of Lanna Chiang Mai, who wanted to create a regular event where villagers and hill-tribe people could sell their wares in the city. Artisans and creatives still travel for miles to this sprawling night market, which stretches the full length of Ratchadamnoen Avenue, from Wat Phra Singh to Tha Pae Gate, right through the centre of the Old City. Paper umbrellas, hand-crafted silver work, pottery and ceramics, and local indigo batik fabrics can all be found for sale here, amid the more touristy paraphernalia.
Published in the November 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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