Travel
See elephants, lions and even African wild dogs at your own pace for a fraction of the cost of traditional game drives.
ByGeorgia Stephens
Published July 19, 2023
• 9 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
While many African reserves are only accessible to those with the thickest wallets, Kruger, South Africa’s first national park, offers the chance for a far more affordable self-guided safari. Here, on the border with Mozambique, you can see giraffes and even rare African wild dogs from a rental car little different to the one you might drive at home. It’s a place to be enjoyed at your own pace, going wherever a road or a water hole draws the eye, stopping to consult a dog-eared map or reach for your supply of biltong.
With wildlife so abundant, particularly in the south of the park, it’s possible to tick off lions, leopards and even rhinos by dinnertime. And come the evening, such close encounters make perfect campfire tales — particularly if the lions came slightly too close for comfort.
Days 1–2
From Johannesburg, the most convenient route into the park is a domestic flight straight into Skukuza, the park’s largest rest camp. There are 23 of these camps in all, with accommodation ranging from pitches and safari tents to pricier thatched bungalows.
A more affordable option is to fly to Kruger Mpumalanga, pick up a car at the airport and drive an hour to Kruger’s Malelane Gate. Wi-fi and 4G is very limited but you can buy maps at the airport and in park shops; Kruger’s major camps have petrol stations. Once in Skukuza, recover from the journey with a trip to the nearby hide at Lake Panic — a favourite spot for birdwatchers. Spend a lazy afternoon admiring the pied kingfishers, and hope that the leopard that’s occasionally seen here prowls into view. The best spot for dinner is Cattle Baron steakhouse back at camp, overlooking the hippos of the Sabie River — try the fillet rossini with a creamy peri peri sauce, just R189 (£8), thanks to the favourable exchange rate.
The next morning, drive east along the Sabie River to your stop for the night, Lower Sabie Rest Camp; take your time and keep your eyes peeled — it’s said this stretch of road harbours the world’s densest population of leopards. Stop for lunch and wildlife viewing at Nkuhlu Picnic Site beside the river, and arrive at camp to see the crocodiles at Sunset Dam. In camp, scour the trees for thick-tailed bush babies, often seen here.
Days 3–5
Head out at dawn for a game drive — consider heading south, where cheetahs are more common — and return to camp for a South African breakfast on the restaurant terrace; the river flows below, and if you’re lucky, you can watch elephants while tucking into boerewors (spiral sausages). Ahead of you is an epic drive to Satara Rest Camp, via the lofty views over the plains at the Nkumbe View Site. Stop for lunch at Tshokwane Picnic Site, where you can rent a gas-fired skottel braai for a barbecue South Africa-style – just watch out for hyenas. From here, you can continue to Orpen Dam — park up and watch for kudus and bushbucks.
Satara is in one of the best places to see big cats, so head out on the S100 road at dawn the next day for the chance to glimpse one of the park’s most famous ones — a white lion nicknamed Casper. Alternatively, book a guided morning bush walk at camp and listen out for their roars on foot. Your bed for the night is at Tamboti, an exhilaratingly wild, back-to-basics camp with safari tents hidden in a forest on the banks of the dry Timbavati River, roamed by genets and honey badgers. Don’t set an alarm — the resident baboons jumping on your tent’s canopy will wake you — then drive north to Olifants Rest Camp.
Days 6–7
Olifants, which means ‘elephants’ in Afrikaans, is aptly named. The camp sits high on a bluff overlooking the eponymous river, and has sweeping views of any wildlife that stops for a drink. Spend the day here cradling your binoculars and a bottle of Amarula, a South African cream liqueur that’s a safari staple, or head out on game drives north. Here, the landscape is studded with mopane trees and is a favourite with — you guessed it — elephants.
Be warned: the herds in the north of the park are known for being less tolerant of people than the ones in the south, so keep your distance at sightings. Spend the night back at Olifants, or head north to stay at nearby Letaba, where tents sit shrouded in mopane forest. The next morning, drive back to Skukuza to fly to Johannesburg, or on to Cape Town.
Five top tips
1. Take it slow
You can recognise a seasoned safari self-driver — they’re generally found crawling along the roads at 5mph, scouring the bush. Follow their lead — by going slowly you may notice a tell-tale ear swish, which could mean the difference between a rock and a rhino. Lower your windows slightly to listen for animal alarm calls. And always scan waterholes — where wildlife congregates — and cool, shady spots under trees, where lions like to cat nap. If all else fails, pause at parked cars — it’s possible the occupants have spotted something you haven’t.
2. Rise early
Gates to get in and out of the rest camps in the park are locked for safety overnight, and you’ll spot seasoned safari self-drivers lined up beside them just before they open again, around 5am. The reason these areas become like a starting line at dawn is because you’ll find the best wildlife spotting at this time — you can find both nocturnal and diurnal animals along the crowd-free roads. Similarly, stay out until the gate closes, as many animals become more active near nightfall and you may spot creatures such as owls.
3. Choose wisely
There are a few things to bear in mind when choosing your rental car — you’re going to spend a lot of time in it. First, go for a high vehicle to give yourself the best chances of spotting wildlife over long grass — unless you want to be eye-to-eye with a lion, which is also fun. Next, while even the smallest rental cars can handle Kruger’s well-maintained roads, a 4WD is preferable for comfort. And opt for automatic rather than manual transmission — when faced with a rampaging rhino, it can make all the difference in your quick getaway. For obvious reasons, also get the best insurance you can afford.
4. Learn body language
It’s good to know how to act around big game, in particular elephants, which can put a dent in your car and, consequently, your finances. Switch off your engine at sightings, keep windows shut and stay quiet at all times and never approach a lone male elephant in musth or get between a mother and her young. If an elephant exhibits signs of irritation, such as kicking up dust, holding its ears forward and trumpeting, leave the area. Similarly, if prey animals such as impalas are acting skittish or giraffes are staring at one spot in the distance, sit tight — it could mean lions or other predators are around.
5. Get organised
Camps, particularly popular ones such as Lower Sabie, Skukuza and Satara, fill up months in advance, especially during South African school and public holidays, so book your thatched huts or basic safari tents well ahead via the SAN parks website. You will also need to pay a daily conservation fee, the cost of which can add up fast; consider investing in a Wild Card if you’re staying more than a few days, as this will give you a year’s unlimited access to over 80 parks and reserves in southern Africa, and usually works out considerably cheaper.
Published in the Jul/Aug 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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