ByHelen Ochyra
Published December 2, 2023
• 11 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Edinburgh is like a scene from a storybook, its spiky turrets, soaring towers, grand squares and cobbled streets every inch the sort of places dragons and princesses would inhabit — not to mention, of course, one particularly famous boy wizard. The city was J K Rowling’s home while she wrote most of the Harry Potter books, and it’s not hard to see the spark of inspiration for her world of magic. Kids’ imaginations have been known to run away with them as they wander the higgledy-piggledy medieval streets of the Old Town up to Edinburgh Castle or march through regal Holyrood Park to the extinct volcano hilltop of Arthur’s Seat, which towers above elegant Georgian streets in the east of the city centre.
The Scottish capital also has some of Britain’s finest family-friendly museums tucked away in its ancient core, along with a superb selection of restaurants serving up tasty treats from Scotland’s jam-packed larder. With a compact, walkable centre and some of the friendliest, funniest people you’ll ever meet, Edinburgh is an enjoyable family city break destination whatever the weather. Here’s how to get the best out of it.
What to do in Edinburgh with kids
Toddlers: Even little legs can manage a stroll along the city’s showstopping Royal Mile, where a jumble of kirks (churches), cathedrals and medieval closes (alleyways) jostle for attention with seemingly endless shops selling all manner of kid-enticing trinkets and curios — including plenty of fudge.
The Royal Mile runs from the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the King’s official residence in Scotland, to Edinburgh Castle. From here, you can loop around to Princes Street Gardens so the kids can blow off steam on the grassy slopes of what was once a loch. At Christmas time, the gardens really come alive, with a family funfair, carol concerts, a Christmas market and Scotland’s largest Ferris wheel. It’s best after dark, when all is illuminated with twinkly lights and there’s mulled wine and hot chocolate on tap to keep families toasty.
On rainy days, wee ones can head indoors to explore the Imagine gallery at the National Museum of Scotland. Aimed at under-fives, it’s a riot of colour, complete with a story corner, dressing-up gear and interactive elements.
Children under 10: Edinburgh was the first city in the world to open a museum dedicated to the history of childhood. The Museum of Childhood first opened to the public in 1955 and moved to its present location on the Royal Mile in 1957. Its collection spans the 18th to the 21st centuries and there are hundreds of toys on display, from Muffin the Mule to Buzz Lightyear. Kids can dress up, play games and connect with parents over their own childhood memories.
Near Holyrood, science centre Dynamic Earth is the sort of museum the kids will talk about for years to come thanks to its real iceberg, which visitors can touch, and 360-degree planetarium. In the run-up to Christmas, there’s the chance to meet Santa here, too.
Kids who prefer the outdoors can hit the beach — Edinburgh’s best is Portobello, with two miles of soft sand, plenty of arcades and abundant ice cream. Families can swim here year-round, in calm Firth of Forth waters on hot days or indoors at the Portobello Swim Centre on chillier days. The latter, a Victorian-designed leisure complex, is home to a rare example of 19th-century Turkish baths — parents can draw straws for some me-time in this over-18s area while the kids splash about in the main pool.
Tweens and teenagers: For active older kids, the high point of any trip to Edinburgh is sure to be the climb up Arthur’s Seat. It takes an hour or so to reach the summit of this extinct volcano (and you’ll need sturdy shoes), but it’s worth the exertion for the view, which stretches across the city and out to the famous Forth Bridges. As an added bonus, there’s often a bagpiper providing the soundtrack to the climb, too.
Back in the Old Town, close to the castle, tech-savvy teens can explore photo opportunities at Camera Obscura and World of Illusions. As well as the opportunity to learn about the magic of early photography, this popular attraction features a magic room with giant plasma ball and dozens of hands-on optical tricks, including the chance to shake hands with your ghost or walk on water, plus a mirror maze and spinning vortex tunnel. There’s also a rooftop terrace with castle views and telescopes.
After dark, book onto a guided walk with Mercat Tours for spine-chilling ghost stories mixed with Edinburgh history. Tours descend into the Blair Street Underground Vaults, where you’ll learn about Edinburgh’s grim and gory past then huddle over whiskies (soft drinks for the kids) to hear ghoulish tales by candlelight.
Where to eat in Edinburgh with kids
Toddlers: A Pinch of Salt’s converted police box on Princes Street is the ideal pitstop for coffee and cake with high-energy kids that don’t want to sit down. For something more substantial, the National Museum of Scotland’s ground-floor Museum Kitchen should tempt little ones with its tomato-red bench seating and crowd-pleasing menu of toasties and pizzas. Near the Meadows, and opposite one of Edinburgh’s best playgrounds, MF Coffee Shop has toys to keep young kids entertained while grown-ups fuel up on locally baked goods.
Children under 10: Around the corner from the Museum of Childhood, housed in what was once the advertising and notices department of The Scotsman newspaper offices, Grand Cafe is a gorgeous setting for afternoon tea and serves a kiddie version for under a tenner; adults, meanwhile, can opt to upgrade their own afternoon tea with champagne or a gin and tonic. Nearby, City Restaurant is perfect for penning the kids into a booth and filling them up with fish and chips or macaroni cheese. If you’re down at Portobello, don’t miss The Beach House for cream-topped sundaes.
Tweens and teenagers: Take adventurous eaters to the Mussel Inn and let them loose on a pot of Scotland’s finest rope-grown mussels. Determined to get kids excited about Scottish seafood, this family-friendly bistro will do any dish child-sized, from scallops to shellfish pasta. Near the National Museum of Scotland, Mums has many variations of sausage and mash on its menu, plus haggis for those who’d like to introduce their kids to a Scottish classic. Or try Howies, at the foot of Calton Hill, which serves a Scotland-sourced kids’ menu featuring Highland venison, Shetland mussels and Mackie’s ice-cream.
Did you know?
Edinburgh sits atop a trio of extinct volcanoes formed around 350 million years ago: one at Edinburgh Castle, one at Arthur’s Seat and one at Calton Hill. You won’t get far up Castle Hill without paying the hefty Castle admission fee, but the climb up Calton Hill is free, easy even for little legs and takes just a few minutes. The view from the top is Edinburgh’s best, too.
Where to stay in Edinburgh with kids
Toddlers: Little legs need only totter a few paces from the Royal Mile to crash out in a family suite at the funky Radisson Blu Hotel, Edinburgh City Centre, complete with oodles of floor space, a bathtub and proper beds for two adults and two children. The hotel has a pool for a dip, too. For even more space, book an open-plan apartment at nearby Cheval Old Town Chambers. You’ll get up to three bedrooms, a kitchen and laundry facilities, plus stonking city views.
Children under 10: Stay in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle at Apex Grassmarket Hotel and you’ll get eye-popping views of the behemoth’s lofty walls from family rooms that comfortably sleep four. Come dinnertime, younger ones under five eat for free at the bright and breezy on-site restaurant Metro. Alternatively, be one of the first to check in to Roomzzz’ serviced apartments in the city’s shiny new St James Quarter, where family-sized studios come with a sofa bed for the kids plus a bijou kitchenette.
Tweens and teenagers: They’ve thought of everything at The Balmoral, from bedtime milk and cookies to pint-sized robes and slippers; there are even teen-focused spa treatments. Standing next to Waverley station, this is Edinburgh’s most iconic hotel and the kids will be wowed by its magical architecture, with balconies and turrets reaching up to a clocktower that wouldn’t look out of place at Hogwarts. Larger families can book the new Virgin Hotels Edinburgh, where family suites sleep five across a king-size bed, bunk beds and a sofa bed, all set against glorious views of the surrounding Old Town.
(A family city guide to London.)
How to do it
Edinburgh is well-connected to the rest of the UK by train, including sleeper services from London Euston. There are also regular flights to the Scottish capital from around the country, including all major London airports, Belfast, Bristol, Cardiff, Exeter, Newquay and Southampton. Edinburgh Trams shuttle between the airport, the city centre and Newhaven. Lothian Buses criss-cross the city and offer unlimited travel in a day for £5 per adult and £2 per child, or £10.50 for a family day ticket. Children under five travel for free on both buses and trams.
Edinburgh is enticing year-round but really comes alive at Christmas and Hogmanay (Scottish New Year celebrations), as well as during the annual Edinburgh Festival Fringe in August. Summer is the warmest time of year, with an average high of 19C in July; January is the coldest month, with an average high of 6C.
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