ByJames March
Published November 3, 2023
• 6 min read
At the junction of two great rivers and overlooked by a towering basilica, few cities in Europe look like Lyon. Even fewer can offer the breadth of tastes that can be found in Lyon. Sat between the vertiginous vineyards of Beaujolais and the cattle-studded pastures of the Alps, this is a city with culinary quality at its core. Its kitchens have played host to notable names, from trailblazing female chef Eugénie Brazier — the first person to be awarded six Michelin stars — to Paul Bocuse, whose innovative dishes championed the region’s local produce. With poultry from Bresse, cow’s-milk cheeses from Dauphiné, crayfish from Bugey and, of course, wines from Beaujolais and the Rhône Valley, menus in Lyon are a true education in the local area.
Start simple
Lyon’s historic bouchons (bistro-style restaurants) are the obvious place to begin your search for the city’s culinary heart. Despite their quaint red-and-white chequered tablecloths and unfussy handwritten menus, the traditional Lyonnais dishes served here are not to be underestimated. Whether sitting amid the mahogany interiors of Café Comptoir Abel or the more contemporary stylings of Le Bouchon des Cordeliers, diners should expect punchy flavours at every turn. Onion, butter and offal dominate menus at these family-owned spots, where dishes are often served with a carafe of local wine.
Though Lyon is proud of its culinary past, this is not a city that rests on its laurels. “Lyon’s food scene is so exciting because of its diversity,” says Anthony Bonnet, the head chef of Les Loges, a Michelin-starred restaurant hidden in an elegant Florentine-style courtyard in the city centre. “There are still the traditional bouchons, but there’s also a new generation of chefs who are keen to push the boundaries of French gastronomy and introduce new concepts.”
From sauvignon to spring rolls
The diversity of Lyon’s produce is best sampled at the sprawling Les Halles de Paul Bocuse, in the Part-Dieu district of the city. Named after the legendary chef, this large food court has narrow aisles where Lyonnais delights are offered at every corner. Stop for a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and fresh oysters at Maison Merle before picking up a sweet slice of tarte aux pralines (pink praline tart) at Délices des Sens.
It’s worth noting that modern Lyonnais cuisine does not only cater to time-honoured French tastes. Over in the tumbling hillside neighbourhood of La Croix-Rousse, you’ll find notes of Naples in the woodfired pizzas at the rustic restaurant Maria. “Alternatively, a short walk south to the banks of the Rhône will bring you to the low-lit Papasan, which serves aromatic Vietnamese and Laotian spring rolls, pho and bo-bun.
Regional, seasonal menus
No matter where Lyon’s kitchens find their inspiration, there’s always one guiding principle. “The common thread remains the quality of the produce,” says Bonnet, “which we select with great attention.” Bonnet grew up just outside the city, in the forested hills of the Monts du Lyonnais, where his grandparents were farmers. It was here that his appreciation for the area’s fresh local produce began. “With the wines, the orchards, the cheeses and the charcuterie, our region is unbelievably bountiful.”
“I find that it offers an unlimited source of inspiration,” he says. “I work with many local farmers, and they are the ones who ultimately guide my cooking. I always try to create dishes according to what nature brings us, and with respect for the producers. Our gastronomic heritage in Lyon is, above all, our land.” Bonnet’s menus at Les Loges, in Cour des Loges Lyon, A Radisson Collection Hotel, showcase a delectable array of local flavours. It’s a taste of Lyon’s 21st-century creativity crafted by a chef with deep respect for the city’s prestigious past. “After all,” he says, “Lyon is a city that makes you hungry!”
Anthony Bonnet’s best Lyonnais dishes
1. Pike quenelle
With its famous crayfish sauce, this traditional dish of pike dumplings is a real experience of the ponds of the Dombes in the surrounding areas of Lyon.
2. Pâté en croûte
The best versions are prepared with local veal, farm pig and wild mushrooms, and the jelly perfume with Arquebuse liquer.
3. Poached pear
A traditional dish of the Beaujolais vineyard, flavoured with spices and red wine (I add blackcurrant cream too), with an aim to leave the diner refreshed.
Plan your trip
Fly direct from London to Lyon in around 1h40m. Alternatively, Eurostar trains to Lyon from London St Pancras require one change at Paris before continuing south. Cour des Loges Lyon, A Radisson Collection Hotel in the heart of Vieux Lyon is currently undergoing renovation and will be reopening in 2024.. The hotel is easily accessed by bus, metro and taxi from Lyon Part-Dieu station. For more information, visit radissonhotels.com/collection
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