Travel
Queen of pleasure parlours and bastion of beach raves, Britain’s most progressive seaside resort combines coastal laissez-faire with a commitment to creativity and sustainability.
ByOrla Thomas
Published October 20, 2023
• 14 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Britain’s original destination for a dirty weekend, Brighton has had a reputation for licentiousness since the Prince Regent (later King George IV) started bringing his mistress Maria Fitzherbert here in the late 18th century. The construction of his coastal party pad, Brighton Pavilion, sealed the deal — slowly transforming the sleepy fishing village of Brighthelmston into a fashionable destination for the Regency elite, as well as setting a deliriously high standard for subsequent society pleasure dens.
Cut to 2023 and the city has cleaned up its act. It claims the UK’s only Green Party MP and its highest density of vegan restaurants, according to 2022 research by chefspencil.com. To sanitise the city too thoroughly, however, would be to rob it of its charm. This is a place synonymous with Graham Greene’s underworld novel Brighton Rock and, latterly, best known for bonkers beachfront raves and outrageous drag acts. An exemplar of the counterculture, it prides itself on openness and inclusivity — its wordplay nickname ‘B-right-on’ infinitely more apt than the slightly sneering ‘London-on-Sea’.
Though a fraction of the capital’s size — only qualifying for its city status when bundled together with neighbouring Hove in 2001 — Brighton brims with big energy. “It’s the beating heart of the south coast,” says Michael Aurel, manager of one of its hottest bars, the Plotting Parlour. “And absolutely everyone is welcome here.”
Much of Brighton’s appeal is along its extensive coastline — walk any section of the promenade between Hove Lagoon and Brighton Marina and you’ll pass grand seafront hotels and kitsch candy floss stalls, rollerbladers with rainbow hair and hen parties wearing kiss-me-quick hats. Nearby is The Lanes and its labyrinth of alleyways, many made using a building material called bungaroosh. Here, flint, pebbles and sand are set within the walls, the influence of the sea seeping even into streets set far back from the water.
There are remnants of Brighton’s 19th-century heyday everywhere — like the fire-ravaged ghost pier, slowly being reclaimed by the water and the elegant arches of Madeira Terrace, soon to be restored. Wander along the beach and you’re equally likely to stumble upon a vintage carousel, a sandy volleyball court or pop-up sauna. An evening out might start with a sustainable dinner menu and end with a nightcap at a speakeasy — or dancing til dawn at one of the LGBTQ+ bars in Kemptown, traditionally Brighton’s gay quarter. Whichever path you take, you’ll soon discover that this is a city that takes having fun seriously.
Local pride
Long thought of as England’s gay capital, Brighton and Hove now has the 2021 census data to prove it — one in 10 of the city’s adults identify as lesbian, gay, bisexual or of ‘other sexual orientation’. Its annual Pride event is also the UK’s biggest
What to see & do in Brighton
The Lanes & North Laine: These adjacent areas are made for ambling. Traditionally the city’s jewellery district, the narrow and maze-like Lanes are still chock-full of gem-laden shops, plus an armoury shop, painted brilliant guards-red and stocked with samurai swords. North Laine, an umbrella term for several roads including Bond St and Kensington Gardens, has an almost carnival-like atmosphere at weekends, with some boulevards accommodating cafes’ pavement tables as well as various vintage and independent stores.
Royal Pavilion: Queen Victoria called her predecessor King George IV’s maximalist retreat ‘strange’ — but she must be the only visitor it’s ever failed to impress. Brighton’s Versailles, the Pavilion’s decadent design is heavily inspired by different parts of Asia — the outside is like a mini-version of India’s Taj Mahal, while the interior is a dazzling combination of gilded dragons, celestial carpets and hand-painted Chinese wallpaper.
Brighton seafront: Smack bang in the middle of Brighton’s almost eight miles of coastline is the Victorian-era Palace Pier. Its diverse amusements include a two-penny arcade, a caravan offering tarot readings and a fairground with a helter-skelter. For a more sedate ride, head to the nearby Volk’s Electric Railway, a narrow-gauge train that trundles along the promenade towards the Marina.
Brighton Food Tours: For such a compact city, Brighton punches way above its culinary weight and has a thriving independent food scene. Helping visitors navigate it are Cat Lane and Angela Brightwell’s team of guides, whose multi-stop tours might feature Happy Maki’s vegan sushi, salads and natural wines at Plateau or a pudding at Boho Gelato. Host retailers are often real raconteurs, showing a flavour of Brighton that extends beyond the plate.
The Sea Lanes: Offering a beachside dip minus the bracing conditions, Brighton’s new open-air pool has solar-powered pumps that maintain 15-19C all year round. Warning: swimmers may find their 50m lengths derailed by the tempting smells drifting over the water — the smart units next-door are home to Bison Beach Bar and its in-house barbecue joint, Wood X Coal.
Brighton i360: Seen from below, the 530ft i360 — the world’s slimmest moving observation tower — looks like a giant glass doughnut impaled on a silver sword. But the views from its summit — making passengers “officially the highest people in Brighton”, as an announcement jokes — are genuinely impressive. Celebrate with sparkling wine from the Sky Bar or gaze out to sea to spot paddleboarders circling the ghostly ruins of the West Pier. On a clear day, the Seven Sisters cliffs can be glimpsed on the horizon.
Best Brighton hotels
Hotel du Vin: Housed in a handsome, gothic-style building that was once a wine merchant’s store, this 49-room hotel sits back from the seafront. Coastal shades bring a sense of serenity to the stylish bedrooms, while downstairs the clubbish bar and Parisian-style bistro buzz with life. The courtyard is sundowner-central during warmer months.
One Broad Street: There’s no receptionist or breakfast at this self-service Kemptown hotel — instead, each digitally locked room comes with a kitchenette. The industrial aesthetic is offset by cosy throws slung over super-comfy beds. Book a deluxe king, or the courtyard or loft suite if you’re travelling with family. These sleep four and come with a lounge area.
Artist Residence: The boutique mini-chain’s flagship property occupies a Regency townhouse facing Brighton’s West Pier. Rooms feature one-off murals, exposed brickwork and high-end soft furnishings, contrasting the aesthetic in the communal areas — all neon artworks, trailing succulents and David Shrigley prints. The hotel’s bar-restaurant is a popular local hangout, and does an excellent brunch, as well as cocktails.
Where to go out in Brighton
The Plotting Parlour: Dionysus, the Greek god of pleasure, is the muse for this inventive cocktail bar. As well as appearing on its bacchanalian wallpaper, they’re the inspiration behind drinks such as the boldly textured and coloured negroni sorbeto. Bag a table in the light-filled glass atrium or one of the restored cinema seats at the back.
The Basketmakers Arms: This pub started as a side-hustle for a local 19th-century weaver, and still serves as a hub for North Laine residents. A low-ceilinged old-school boozer, its walls are covered with vintage tobacco tins containing notes left by previous patrons. Pen your own haiku or love letter while sinking a pint from one of eight cask ales. Its menu features locally caught seafood and meat from Brighton butchers.
Arcobaleno: Its name may mean ‘rainbow’ in Italian, but the owners of this inclusive LGBTQ+ venue in seafront Kemptown hail from neighbouring Malta. The menu features national dishes like timpana (a baked pasta pie), but the extensive ABBA-themed drinks list is perhaps a more appropriate accompaniment to regular free events such as drag act Dick Day’s Hairy Fairies.
Where to shop in Brighton
Era: Past masters at acquiring mid-century furniture, the owners of this two-floor corner store believe decorative antiques are the next big thing in interiors and are expanding their stock accordingly. The duo’s finds are all carefully refurbished and could include a pair of psychedelic side tables, an art deco club chair or a painted terracotta leopard.
Snoopers Paradise: Sherlock Holmes’ mind palace featured long corridors and endless memory-packed rooms — a fitting metaphor for this capacious flea market, where the detective serves as a logo. Shoppers enter the Brighton institution through a turnstile to explore 100 stalls laden with rare vinyl, vintage clothes, retro toys and endless other intriguing ephemera, all curated into themed areas.
Papersmiths: This little shop is a love-letter to the art of putting pen to paper, offering a rainbow of writing materials and a whimsical range of tote bags featuring slogans such as ‘Always Stationery Never Stationary’. Among the few UK outlets selling diaries by cult US brand Appointed, it also has its own range of brightly coloured notebooks.
Where to eat in Brighton
Taquitos Casazul: Great for a street food-style lunch, this place is run by genial Gabriel Gutierrez, the king of Brighton’s Open Market, a — somewhat ironically — covered marketplace off the city’s London Road. His short menu of Mexican dishes includes chicken tacos de mole — a 40-plus ingredient flavour-hit — as well as vegan versions. Pick up one of his nutty salsas to take home.
English’s: Brighton’s oldest seafood restaurant is still among its best, with period signage and muralled interior walls that evoke the Edwardian high life. Choose from oysters at the bar or one of its excellent-value set menus, featuring mackerel pate alongside classics such as lobster thermidor.
Furna: A booking at lauded local chef Dave Mothersill’s restaurant is as much an event as tickets to the Theatre Royal next door. Sit on a mustard bar stool at the countertop to watch a kitchen ballet unfold, with staff preparing an eight-course tasting menu of delicately beautiful and flavour-rich dishes like Orkney scallop, Yorkshire rhubarb and white asparagus. Its low-lit, parquet-floored dining room is made for lingering.
Getting there & around
Rail links to Brighton are operated by Southern, Thameslink and Gatwick Express, with direct services to destinations including London and Cambridge. The train station is very central and a straight 15-minute walk to the seafront.
Average journey time from London: 1h.
Brighton is a compact city and easy to explore on foot, but longer journeys can be made by bus. A £6 citySAVER ticket offers unlimited travel for 24 hours — including journeys to Hove, a 10-minute hop away. Alternatively, book a green ebike or scooter via the Beryl app.
When to go
Brighton’s peak festival season runs from May to September, when the weather is also at its summer best — offering more sunshine hours than most UK destinations and temperatures averaging around 20C. Hotels tend to be cheaper outside the peak months of July and August. In autumn, the average temperature is around 12C — consider combining with a trip to Lewes’ famous Bonfire Night celebrations, a half-hour drive away.
More info
visitbrighton.com
brighton.co.uk
How to do it
Dance your way round Brighton with a Boogie Shoes silent disco walking tour. Groups take a liberating shimmy along the promenade, soundtracked by 1980s pop through to current party
Graffiti expert REQ offers a two-hour street art tour starting at Enter Gallery, which also sells accessibly priced originals by emerging artists including Ryan Callanan.
This story was created with the support of Visit Brighton.
Published in the November 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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