ByBerkok Yüksel
Published September 26, 2023
• 7 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
When talking about Osaka, it’s nearly impossible not to mention the culinary culture that’s made the city a destination for food lovers. But to focus solely on Osaka’s famous okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) and takoyaki (battered octopus balls) would do a great disservice to Japan’s third-largest city. It may be a sprawling metropolis but Osaka has the feel of an easygoing European coastal city, with a sense of openness and a slower pace than its big brother, Tokyo. First-time visitors tend to make a beeline for Osaka Castle, browse the food stalls on a walk through Kuromon Ichiba Market and later venture out to Universal Studios on the edge of the city. But another great way to get a true taste of Osaka is to dive into its diverse neighbourhoods.
Fukushima
Best for: eating out
The Osakan way of eating yourself to ruin is such a large part of local culture that the habit has a name: ‘Osaka no kuidaore’ — loosely translated: ‘Eat the Osaka way until you fall into debt’. The Kuromon Ichiba Market is a popular destination for food-curious visitors, but an equally compelling, less touristy gastronomic quarter is Fukushima, one stop to the west of Osaka Station. The culinary heart of the neighbourhood is Josho New Street, lined with neighbourhood izakayas (informal bars) competing for attention. There are two unmissable spots on this street: Moeyo Mensuke, famous for its duck ramen; and Izumo Unagi, a freshwater eel specialist with a lengthy, delicious menu that slices and dices eel in all its forms. Try its eel skewers or signature unadon — a bowl of rice topped with an omelette roll and grilled eel. If you can stomach the idea of it, the horse-meat tartare and horse katsu are also worth trying. Just west of Fukushima Station is highly rated soba (buckwheat noodles) joint Sobakiri Karani. This unassuming little shop is a specialist in hand-pulled soba and carries a curated selection of local sakes.
Shinsaibashisuji
Best for: bars
Osaka has many nightlife hotspots but few neighbourhoods can claim a higher concentration of meticulously crafted cocktails per square metre than Shinsaibashisuji. Mixology and experiential bars take centre stage in this central district, sitting just north of the Dotonbori Canal. Leading the pack is Bible Club Osaka, a testament to the current speakeasy trend. The experience starts with 120-year-old antique stairs imported from California, which lead down to the bar. From the vintage cash register to rustic copper barware, the interior is meticulously designed as a Narnia-like portal that transports patrons to the US in Prohibition times. The menu offers original cocktails as well as classics with a twist; try the BC Penicillin, which contains lemon honey syrup and is infused with a mist of single malt. Bar Nayuta and Bar N are other stops worth making. The former — tucked away in an inconspicuous office building — dishes out elaborate cocktails that bring out the best of carefully chosen ingredients, while the latter serves a wide selection of premium local and imported whiskies in a charmingly casual setting.
Nakazakicho
Best for: wandering
Often dubbed the city’s hipster district, Nakazakicho is the ideal place for a haphazard stroll of discovery. Young locals flock here for cosy cafes, boutique stores selling everything from clothing to handmade ceramics, and Instagrammable low-rise houses with sliding wooden doors. Don’t miss Salon de Amanto, a serene cafe tucked away behind cascading vines, which acts as a community centre. It’s the perfect place to retreat and unwind with a cup of fair-trade Filipino coffee or its unusual monkfruit-based drink, the rankanka. Another cafe — whose storefront is a popular backdrop to influencer shoots — is Gallery Arabiq. Visitors love its library, but its signature drink, a thickly frothed coffee sprinkled with a colourful medley of sweets, is an equally good reason to spend some time here, as is the generously cocoa-dusted tiramisu. Green Pepe, a vintage clothing and knick-knack shop, is another must-visit. The neighbourhood is a short walk from Osaka Station. Visit in the afternoon, as most places here don’t open until after 11am.
Minamihorie
Best for: shopping
Japanese pop-culture fashion is most prevalent in Amerikamura, Osaka’s ‘American Village’, but the city’s boutique fashion scene resides in Minamihorie. Local artisan brands showcase their wares in small shops here, making the area a joy to browse — even if you’re only window shopping. Studio d’Artisan, known for its quality denim clothing, should be your first stop. For high-end Osakan streetwear, the go-to is Achroma, in the adjacent building. Further up the road, en.DAWS offers shoppers a rich collection of pre-loved US clothing, while Lara Vintage specialises in local and Western vintage clothing for women. Minamihorie also hosts a constellation of record stores, hidden on the upper floors of buildings, their signage almost deliberately concealed. One such store is Revenge Records, a hotspot for punk-centric vintage vinyl. Close by, Flake Records specialises in new records and hosts a range of on-brand merch for vinyl aficionados, from streetwear sweat pants to witty tote bags. Meanwhile, King Kong honten, inside the Shinsaibashi Opa shopping centre, stands out for its extensive collection of vintage records (its speciality is Japan’s ‘city pop’ of the 1970s and ’80s).
Published in the Japan supplement, distributed with the October 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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