Travel
Soups, stews, tacos and tamales are on the menu in the Mexican capital.
Published September 28, 2023
• 5 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Every time I go back to Mexico City, the city where I was born, I think of staying. There are so many dishes to try, and not enough nights to dance, drink or eat an elote (corn on the cob) on a street corner.
The importance of not leaving home on an empty stomach comes from our ancestors and our abuelitas (grandmothers), who lived through hunger during the Mexican Revolution. But we have street breakfast vendors, too. The star option is the guajolota — a tamal (steamed corn dough) inside a bread roll. You can find dishes from every Mexican state in the capital, but this is a local speciality — it’s delicious, cheap and filling.
Tortillas are on the table every day, freshly made by the local tortilleria from early morning until 5pm. Different tacos are sold at particular times of day. Tacos de guisado (with stew) are commonly seen from morning to lunchtime; street-style tacos are enjoyed mainly at night; carnitas (slow-cooked pork) or mixiotes (pit-barbecued meat) are a midday sort of taco; while barbacoa (meat slow-cooked over fire) are a weekend-morning taco.
Essential ingredient
Nopales (prickly pears) play a crucial role in Mexican cooking, adding a mild, tangy flavour and tender texture to dishes like salads, juices, stews and tacos.
Lunch is usually a larger meal, with soup, rice, beans, a main dish and tortillas, then dessert — served as a comida corrida, a sort of set meal. It’s cheap, fast and often served in cocinas economicas, small humble restaurants. Every market has its own food court, plus stalls selling local ingredients, juices or fresh brews, seafood, desserts and garnachas — fried tortillas with refried beans and garnishes such as cheese and shredded cabbage.
Cantinas, meanwhile, are similar to pubs. The main activity is drinking, but free food is a drawcard. Some cantinas serve small plates of food to nibble on; others have a proper menu where you can order pancita (tripe soup), birria (meat stew), caldo de camaron (shrimp soup) and more. There will often be live music, karaoke or mariachi bands, too, so you can spend the day eating, drinking and singing.
This is an edited excerpt from CDMX: The Food of Mexico City, by Rosa Cienfuegos, published by Smith Street Books on 12 October (£26).
Where to eat
1. La blanca café
In the heart of the city, this is a charming family restaurant whose walls are lined with pictures from 1915. Enchiladas or chilaquiles verdes (corn tortillas fried in salsa verde) are served in substantial portions, but save room for some sweet bread and a café con leche.
2. El canto de las sirenas
Living up to the allure of its name (‘Siren Song’), this restaurant offers a seafood experience that combines delicious dishes with a fun atmosphere and live music. Add the coastal decor and you’ll feel transported to the sea, despite being right in the middle of the city.
3. La especial de Paris
Established in 1921, this ice cream parlour offers almost 30 flavours on its seasonal menu of scoops, from classics such as vanilla to more unusual offerings including mandarin, pecan and zapote — a sweet and creamy local fruit.
Insurgentes Centro 117-B San Rafael, Cuauhtémoc
Published in the October 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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