Saffron and ghee can be found as key ingredients in dishes such as biryani. These ingredients were introduced to West Bengal by the Nawab and Mughal dynasties.
Photograph by Steven Joyce
In the northeast Indian state — and particularly its capital, Kolkata — street food reigns supreme
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
There’s a Bengali expression, ‘ami machh bhat Bangali’, which means ‘I’m a typical Bengali who eats fish and rice’. Located in the Ganges River Delta, Bengal, a historical region between modern-day Bangladesh and India, is perfectly suited to rice cultivation. As for the ‘fishy’ element, fishing was a primary activity here, and in the northeast Indian state of West Bengal, fish is said to represent prosperity.
Various cultures have left an imprint on the cuisine of Bengal. The Nawab and Mughal dynasties introduced marinated meat, as well as the use of saffron and ghee. These flavours found their way into dishes such as biryani, korma and Kolkata’s renowned street foods, including kati rolls — flatbreads wrapped around various fillings and chutneys. They also introduced milk, cardamom and sugar to their desserts, and today, West Bengal is known for its array of sweets.
Arrivals from Europe brought their cuisines, too. The Christian community introduced the ritual of tea, while baking became widespread after the arrival of the British, as did chops and pound cakes. From the 18th century onwards, West Bengal became home to large numbers of Marwaris (a Rajasthani ethnic group) and Chinese people; the former introduced a range of vegetarian dishes, while the latter spiced up Cantonese dishes with hot sauces and chillies, with the likes of chilli chicken and chow mein becoming favourites in the state.
Bengali cuisine is packed with colour. During Durga Puja, West Bengal’s biggest festival, the goddess Durga is offered a bright yellow khichdi (a preparation of rice and daal) accompanied by various vegetable curries made without onion and garlic. But whether it’s the contrasting shades in the fruit and vegetable markets or the jars of yellow turmeric and pink rock salt that line home kitchens, you can expect vibrant hues all year round.
Three West Bengali dishes to try
1. Kati roll
A fresh paratha flatbread fried on one side and filled with charred chicken and sliced onions. It’s drizzled with tomato sauce, chilli sauce and a dash of lime, rolled up and served hot.
2. Shorshe maach
White fish fried with turmeric and salt, then simmered in a paste of mustard seeds and chillies. Served with steamed white rice, it’s a common dish in most households and restaurants.
3. Puchka
Also known as panipuri, this beloved street snack is a thin, crispy puffed sphere filled with spiced potato and tangy tamarind water. A puchkawala makes these fresh, one by one, and they should be eaten whole.
Kolkata: Recipes from the Heart of Bengal, by Rinku Dutt, is published by Smith Street Books (£26).
Published in the March 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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