Travel
One of the most scenic corners of Essex is its border with Suffolk, formed by the art-inspiring River Stour
ByJo Fletcher-Cross
Published September 26, 2023
• 4 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
The beauty of the River Stour and its valley has long attracted artists, not least John Constable, whose paintings gave the area its ‘Constable Country’ sobriquet. This slice of Essex and Suffolk countryside, with its mills, vineyards and walking trails, continues to inspire to this day. In Dedham, one of its most popular villages, the Art & Craft Centre has work from over 60 artisans and collectors for sale; to get involved, join a painting course at the 15th-century manor house of Dedham Hall.
What to do
Leave plenty of time to explore the area’s network of walking routes. Starting out from Dedham Vale is a good bet — its trails are easy to follow. Stop off in Dedham to hire a clinker rowing boat, part of a fleet that’s been seen here since the 1800s. Also in Dedham is the Munnings Art Museum, the former home of artist Sir Alfred Munnings. It holds the world’s largest collection of his work, with 650 oil paintings, 50 watercolours and 54 sketchbooks showcasing the painter’s fascination with horses.
Where to eat
Talbooth Restaurant is a must, all white tablecloths and wooden beams; outside, a riverside terrace and lawn are very welcome on a warm day. The menu uses local ingredients and presents them in creative dishes such as Mersea crab tartlet with preserved lemon and pickled radish, or Dedham Vale beef with boulangere potatoes.
We like
The RSPB Stour Estuary is an unusual mix of woodland and water. It’s wilder than the lowlands of Dedham Vale, and there’s great birdwatching to be had, especially in autumn and winter. Keep an eye out for black-tailed godwits, pintails and brent geese. When the weather warms, come for butterfly spotting and bluebells in Copperas
Don’t miss
Flatford Mill is where John Constable painted The Hay Wain, one of the most recognisable rural scenes in the history of English painting. Willy Lott’s House, the mill and The Granary can all be viewed from outside, looking almost exactly as they did when the artist immortalised the view in 1821.
Where to stay
About nine miles from the small city of Colchester, The Sun Inn in Dedham feels very ‘country’. On warm post-walk afternoons, repair with a drink to the back garden of this historic coaching inn, or settle into a candle-lit nook after a hearty meal. Upstairs, seven guest rooms are individually decorated, some with mantelpieces and skylight windows. Doubles from £150, B&B.
Published in the October 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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