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Travel
Straddling the border of Cumbria and Lancashire, this rural region is home to bays, birdlife and rare butterflies.
ByMatthew Figg
Published November 27, 2023
• 5 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Many bypass Arnside and Silverdale, touching Morecambe Bay to the west and the Lake District to the north, on their journey along the M6 motorway. Detour to this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AOBN) — one of the smallest in the UK — and you’re in for a surprise. The region spans just 29sq miles, but its diversity belies its humble size, with woodland, limestone hills and a coastal area all linked by a network of paths. Trails start right from Arnside station, which has direct rail connections to Lancaster and Manchester and e-bikes available for rental at Ease E Ride.
What to do
Head to Warton Crag, a local nature reserve on the southern edges of the AONB, home to a limestone hill among gnarly, weather-beaten woodland. The crag is the highest point in the area and offers magnificent views of summits in the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales, but tear your eyes away from distant peaks and you’ll find its most special sight: butterflies. The reserve is home to some of the UK’s rarest species, including the pearl-bordered fritillary. Keen hikers can continue north to Arnside, at the mouth of the Kent Estuary. If visiting during a particularly high tide, head down to the seafront to watch the impressive tidal bore roll in from Morecambe Bay.
Further inland, Heron Corn Mill in Beetham provides an alternative for rainy days. Dating back to 1740, the working watermill is now a community hub hosting regular events, from craft workshops to open days. After each milling demonstration visitors can buy a few bags of their freshly ground flour.
Don’t miss
With the largest reed bed in northwest England, Leighton Moss harbours a wealth of wildlife, from marsh harriers and egrets to elusive otters. During the colder months, visitors gather to watch thousands of starlings, which swoop and swirl in murmurations through the dusk sky before descending to roost among the reeds.
We like
When winter draws in, there’s no finer place for a sunset stroll than Summerhouse Hill on Leighton Hall Estate. At the top, sweeping views take in Morecambe Bay and the snow-capped summits of Lakeland beyond. At the foothills, the 18th-century country house hosts a series of events during the festive season, including wreath-making workshops and candle-lit tours.
Arnside is also the starting point for walks across Morecambe Bay to the attractive town of Grange-over-Sands. While the tidal crossing can be notoriously treacherous, visitors can safely navigate the sands with a royally appointed chaperon — the King’s Guide to the Sands, a position that dates back to 1548. Today, walks are organised by the Guide over Sands Trust and led by local fisherman Michael Wilson during the summer months.
Where to stay
A short drive from the village of Yealand Redmayne, Brackenthwaite Holidays has four self-catering cottages among patchwork fields. Pick of the bunch is The Dairy, a couple’s retreat with a wood burner and a glass-topped well that takes pride of place in the living area. It’s dog-friendly, with a two-acre enclosed field for pets to stretch their legs. Cottages from £113 a night, with a three-night minimum stay.
Alternatively, less than a five-minute walk from Morecambe Bay, the family-run Silverdale Hotel has seven guest rooms, some of which welcome dogs for a small fee. A hearty English breakfast packed with locally sourced favourites is served in the on-site restaurant, which is also open for lunch and dinner — a popular spot for a post-hike meal. Doubles from £90, B&B.
Where to eat
The Wheatsheaf at Beetham, open since 1609, is one of the area’s best country pubs. Come for homemade meals prepared with locally sourced ingredients, from Cumbrian venison steak to Morecambe Bay potted shrimps and cider-battered fish delivered daily from nearby Fleetwood, plus seasonal daily specials.
Published in the December 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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