Discover this historic pottery hotspot in the heart of England

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

The West Midlands county of Staffordshire was once a powerhouse of innovation, taking 18th-century Britain into a ground-breaking future with its nascent pottery, glass, iron, coal and brewing industries. The powerhouse tag may no longer quite ring true but the heritage remains, with its canal system just one welcome leftover from the period. The overall impression these days is decidedly more rural than industrial. The moorlands and dales of the Peak District extend into its northeastern fringes, while gentle valleys and hills, punctuated by stone-built villages, define much of the region elsewhere. Near the centre of England; come for easy activities, unique accommodation and a smattering of that industrial heritage.

How should I spend my time?

The Caldon Canal, which once served to transport flint for use in the potteries of nearby Stoke-on-Trent, runs for 18 miles through the Churnet Valley and could easily fill a day’s gentle strolling. Another vestige of the region’s industrial past is the Churnet Valley Railway, with steam trains taking passengers on nostalgic trips from the village of Froghall, chugging through the Staffordshire countryside on a two-hour round trip. A good chunk of the Peak District National Park also falls within the county’s borders; a lovely drive on single-track roads up and over the moors, dodging nonchalant sheep who’ve strayed onto the tarmac, leads to Dovedale. Managed by the National Trust, the valley has archetypal Peak District scenery, characterised by craggy limestone hills, and stepping stones over the River Dove. There are various footpaths to help you explore the area. For slightly less bucolic distractions, Alton Towers Resort theme park — home to a whopping 10 roller coasters, including the newly refurbished Nemesis Reborn — is in the north east of the county, six miles from Froghall; book in advance.

What if it’s raining?

World of Wedgwood in Stoke-on-Trent is an excellent option for a wet day. A major pottery established in the 18th century, and one of three remaining in the city, Wedgwood is still renowned for its fine china; you can visit the factory on a tour, discover its heritage in the V&A Wedgwood Collection, or learn how to make and paint ceramics yourself in one of its studios.

Rooms at The Tawny come with a pillow menu and complimentary mini bar tailored to your taste.

Photograph by The Tawny

Where’s the best place to stay?

You know you’re in good hands before you arrive at The Tawny, with staff asking for your pillow preference and how you might like your complimentary mini-bar stocked ahead of your stay. Set in 70 acres near the village of Consall, it’s less a hotel than its own little world. A diverse collection of accommodation is scattered across the grounds, spanning wooden huts for two, boathouses ideal for families and stone cottages sleeping eight. All have a clean, Scandinavian-style design ethos complemented by English quirks such as botanical prints and nature books, and come with a log-burner, private deck and outdoor spa bath. The grounds are a highlight here, with follies to clamber around and five miles of paths winding through the lake-pocked gardens and woodland. If feeling less active, hail one of the site’s e-buggies and head, perhaps, to the spa or heated pool.

Where are the stand-out places to eat & drink?

Pride of place at The Tawny is its landmark restaurant, The Plumicorn, in a striking zinc-clad building at the top of a valley and open to non-residents. Diners should spare no dignity to claim a table by the double-height windows, with views down through the grounds. The menu showcases British produce in modern European dishes such as Dunwood Farm beef fillet bourguignon. The Black Lion Consall, a mile away, has a quaint setting in sight of the Caldon Canal, River Churnet and the heritage railway; its beer garden is an ideal spot for a cold pint on a hot day.

How to do it:
Stoke-on-Trent station has direct trains to London and Manchester. Stay in a Wildwood Hut at The Tawny from £250, B&B.

This story was created with the support of The Tawny.

Published in the Jul/Aug 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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