Enchanting Epirus: the mountains and monasteries of Greece’s wild north

ByAlice Barnes Brown

Published October 3, 2023

• 7 min read

Situated in northwestern Greece, Epirus is a remote region peppered with quaint, white-stone villages and arterial rivers which cut through dense forests and towering massifs. Embraced by the Pindus Mountains on one side and the bright-blue Ionian Sea on the other, there’s plenty of scope for a variety of adventures: adrenaline seekers have the option to hike, kayak or bike their way through the landscape, while more relaxed travellers can head to the coast for pristine white sands and secluded seaside towns. From the quaint, cobbled Zagorohoria villages, Metsovo and Mikro Papogo, to atmospheric Ioannina and the summer resorts of Parga and Syvota, here are five charming towns and villages to visit across this wildly underrated region. 

1. Arta

Epirus has maintained a separate identity from the rest of Greece since 1204, when a breakaway kingdom started ruling out of the walled city of Arta — a dominion they maintained for 250 years. Step inside its monuments; there’s the six-domed church of Panagia Parigoritissa, with its golden icons and mosaics, or the castle, where 33-feet-thick walls provide the perfect acoustics for an outdoor theatre. When the sun sets, wander over to Arta’s fabled 17th-century Ottoman bridge, which is best admired from an al fresco table at one of the many cafes, restaurants or bars dotted along the fast-flowing Arachthos River.

If the siren call of Epirus’ waterways proves irresistible, take a day out of Arta to kayak along the River Acheron. Dip your paddle into its blue-green waters, but be sure to glide silently as endangered loggerhead turtles and wolves live along its banks.

2. Ioannina

Ioannina sits on the western shore of Lake Pamvotis, which is especially ethereal at dawn when mists roll off the Pindus mountains and settle on the lake’s silvery surface. Set on a particularly atmospheric headland is Ioannina Castle. Head through the gates to find out who built this multi-faceted city: the Greek silversmiths who made Ioannina rich, the Ottomans who conquered it or the multicultural mix who now inhabit its flower-draped lanes.

Outside the castle walls is a lively, student-filled city packed with street art, live music venues and affordable, delicious food. Ioannina’s cylindrical variety of baklava is one of the most renowned across the country: head to a zacharoplasteio (pastry shop) to get your fill. The beach towns of Parga and Syvota are also less than 90 minutes’ drive away — here, visitors can swim in aquamarine lagoons and chat to locals over a fish dish in seafront tavernas, or opt for a day-trip to peaceful Paxos or glitzy Corfu.

3. Mikro Papigo

One of the 46 traditional villages of the Zagorochoria region, Mikro Papigo sits conveniently at the top of Vikos-Aoös National Park. Despite this lofty positioning, the village is still overshadowed by the magnificent Mount Tymfi, whose tabletop plateaus and sharp summits reach 3,000 metres. The headline hike of this verdant region is the Vikos Gorge, whose green-and-grey walls plunge into the earth and is the world’s deepest in relation to its width. White Pegasus, a family-run horse farm, offer a variety of horse riding trails which take in the majesty of the gorge. Options include hour-long meadow rides beneath the Astraka Towers or full-day mountain adventures.

After a day of exertions, soak in Mikro Papigo’s natural swimming pools. Its gushing waterfalls have chiselled away at these rocks for millennia, forming tiered and mineral-rich pools perfect for curing tired muscles. 

4. Monodendri

At the opposite end of the Vikos Gorge is the abandoned Monastery of St Paraskevi, which, built in 1412, is the oldest in Epirus. Visiting its eerie, empty shell, which clings to the cliff face for dear life, is well worth the 15-minute walk from the secluded village of Monodendri. The latter’s name translates as ‘single tree’, but this part of Greece is incredibly biodiverse. Willows, horse chestnuts, hornbeam and many more species give the area a green burst in spring, changing to a regal red-gold covering in the autumn. See the seasons at their most spectacular at the Stone Forest, where oaks and maples jut from gaps in otherworldly limestone pillars. Or simply sit under the planes and play backgammon in Monodendri’s main square.

Yearning for more adventure? The heart of the Pindus National Park is just over 30 miles away: set off for skiing and the chance to spot the elusive European brown bear.

5. Metsovo

Red-roofed Metsovo is the thriving centre of a unique ethnic community called the Vlachs: an Aromanian-speaking group of shepherds who moved away, found their fortunes, then reinvested in the cultural scene of their beloved home village. Visit Averoff Gallery to sample contemporary Greek art, the Folklore Museum for a peek inside a cosy yet grand 17th-century Vlach manor, or the Katogi Averoff Winery to try earthy Epirus red wines.

No visit to Metsovo would be complete, however, without taking home a slice (or 10) of its namesake cheese. Metsovone is provolone’s Greek cousin, slowly smoked on a bed of sweet, dried grasses, vine leaves and aromatic herbs to maximise flavour. Try it at a metsovo koutouki (a family-run taverna) where metsovone, homemade hilopites pasta and wild greens dominate handwritten menus.

Plan your trip 
Fly into Preveza airport and pick up a rental car; Epirus is easy to navigate thanks to a newly renovated motorway infrastructure. Sunvil offers a number of tailor-made trips across the region including fly-drive holidays and beach stays. It’s also possible to combine Epirus with a stay on the islands of Lefkas and Meganissi. For more information, including expert local suggestions and planning, flights and boutique accommodation options, visit sunvil.co.uk

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