Travel
The birthplace of pilsner and the original Budwieser, the Czech Republic is a paradise for lager lovers.
ByThe Thinking Drinkers
Published October 10, 2023
• 6 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Which country drinks more beer per capita than any other nation in the world?
It’s the Czech Republic — the birthplace of pilsner and the original Budweiser lager (born in Plzeň and České Budějovice, respectively). Ever since the nation split from Slovakia 30 years ago, the Czech Republic has proudly topped the charts — head and shoulders above its European neighbours. According to recent research, the average Czech puts away 184 .1 litres of beer a year — the equivalent of 324 pints.
Why so much? Are they OK?
They’re absolutely fine, it’s just Czech beer is just so damn drinkable. Despite being in a state of almost constant political and social flux for centuries, the Czechs have continuously managed to make deftly-balanced, bottom-fermenting beer (referred to locally as ležák). It helps that they have some amazing raw ingredients — as well as vast reserves of soft water, they’ve got sumptuous Moravian barley in the east, while, in the west, Bohemia boasts huge swathes of the illustrious, fragrant Žatec hop. Also known as the Saaz hop, it’s so prized that, back in the 1100s, anyone found exporting its cuttings was put to death by order of the king.
Harsh but fair. I mean, why would you want to share it with the rest of the world?
Well, for decades, during the communist era, they didn’t have much choice. Under Russian rule, growth and investment were stifled but, fortuitously, national neglect inadvertently protected traditional, time-honoured brewing techniques from capitalist corner-cutting. This changed dramatically when the Velvet Revolution rolled out a red carpet for foreign investors, who quickly gobbled up huge numbers of previously publicly owned breweries. While the likes of Pilsner Urquell and Staropramen became part of global brewing companies, Budweiser Budvar remained state-owned despite having its tyres repeatedly kicked ‘ by Anheuser-Busch, owners of its insipid US namesake.
Right on, comrades. But why didn’t they sell?
Well, locals took to the streets and started rioting and protesting all over České Budějovice. The ‘optics’, as they say, would’ve been awful. Thankfully, that independent spirit remains in the shape of a cracking craft brewing scene that’s even embraced overseas beer styles. Yet the vast majority of Czech brewers still excel in the undervalued art of lager brewing. Brewed with patience and age-old techniques such as open fermenting and languid cold-conditioning, the best Czech lagers are approachable yet never dull — created with a clarity and preciseness of flavour that’s in stark contrast to many of the bland beers that like to call themselves ‘lager’.
Where to drink Czech beer?
1. U Fleků, Prague
Founded in 1499, this gothic tavern and brewpub, bedecked in dark wood and stained glass, is one of the world’s most spectacular drinking destinations. Its iconic house beer is the only option — a dark, balanced lager brewed using a quartet of malts, three varieties of Žatec hop and fermented in oak using the same yeast Budweiser Budvar uses.
2. Zlý časy, Prague
A slightly out-of-town, cosy bare-brick basement bar with a regularly rotated roster of 25 draught taps, most of which are dedicated to the Czech Republic’s thriving indie craft brewing scene — all overseen by knowledgeable staff with a spooky sixth sense for an empty glass.
3. Brewhemia, Edinburgh
This vast beer-hall-style restaurant opposite Edinburgh Waverley station has eight copper tanks filled with, among other things, unpasteurised Budvar Original.
4. House of Trembling Madness, York
You can choose from two houses of ‘Trembling Madness’ in York, both boasting an impressive collection of Czech beers sourced from the more ‘craft-y’ players.
Three Czech beers to try
1. Budweiser Budvar Nefiltrované
A naturally hazy, unfiltered, unpasteurised version of the Czech classic made from blending two batches of beer — one fresh and young and one that’s fully matured. Available only on draught, this is arguably the closest lager gets to cask ale.
2. Pilsner Urquell
First brewed in 1842, this is the original pilsner and was the world’s first blond lager — its creation coinciding with the emergence of clear glassware. The people of Pilsen neglected to patent it, so pilsners are now brewed all over the world — but most are pale imitations of the original, especially if you can get the unpasteurised draught version.
3. Kutna Hora Zlatá 12
A glorious, golden example of the classic Czech lager tradition from a revived brewery that had been shuttered for years that still champions traditional, age-old techniques, including double mashing, open fermentation and traditional cellars.
Published in Issue 21 (October 2023) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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