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Travel
In equal parts wild and picturesque, this pocket of North Yorkshire makes for a quintessential countryside getaway.
ByFarida Zeynalova
Published October 27, 2023
• 5 min read
This articles was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Driving into the North York Moors National Park is a bit like delving into the pages of The Secret Garden — it was indeed these heather-clothed moorlands that inspired Frances Hodgson Burnett’s 1911 novel. Granted, this pocket of North Yorkshire might not be such a secret — its hiking paths, country pubs and historic villages have magnetic appeal, and for good reason. Throw in the Howardian Hills AONB, which sits on the southern edge of the national park, and you’ve got yourself one of the UK’s most idyllic getaways.
What to do
Miles of woodland trails weave through the unspoilt North York Moors countryside. In the south west, a five-mile walking route leads from haunting, 12th-century Byland Abbey, taking in the villages of Wass and Oldstead plus Snever Wood before looping back to the start. From here, take a short drive to Sutton Bank, where Sutton Bank Bikes can provide you with two wheels on which to soak up heady views of the deep-green Vale of Bowbray. The area is also a Dark Sky Discovery Site, so you might want to head here at night for a spot of stargazing. Alternatively, opt for one of the guided night walks that run throughout the year.
Where to eat
For traditional pub grub, make for The Crown & Cushion in Welburn. The menu is loaded with comforting dishes — try the steak and ale pie made with slow-braised Yorkshire Wagyu, chunky chips, spring greens and homemade gravy. Where possible, ingredients are sourced from a kitchen garden 30 miles away in Mount St John and other suppliers from across the county.
Where to stay
Castle Howard, an 18th-century stately home, offers cottages in local villages. Self-catering The Green, in Coneysthorpe, is the ultimate picket-fenced, antique-laden English lodge. It has two en suite bedrooms above the kitchen, lounge and dining area, and a garden that’s a great place for an al fresco breakfast. From £758 for three nights over the weekend.
Don’t miss
The North Yorkshire Moors Railway turns 50 this year. Celebrate with a ride: hop on the Pullman Dining Train, which runs until mid-November, for a round-trip from Grosmont to the market town of Pickering. The hyperlocal menu served en route includes a Wensleydale cheese and vegetable bake.
We like
At Lawnsgate Farm, around 11 miles west of Whitby, North York Moors natives Aidan and Ella Foord arrange guided llama tours. Options range from a 1.5-hour trek around the farm to a four-hour excursion into the Moors, furry companions in tow. Bed down at the campsite here (opt for the secluded yurt with a hot tub) before exploring the sights of Whitby.
This story was created with the support of Castle Howard.
Published in the November 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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