ByTamara Hinson
Published July 9, 2023
• 9 min read
One of America’s most fertile agricultural regions, Fresno County is located in the heart of California between three spectacular national parks: Yosemite, Kings Canyon and Sequoia. Though the region may not boast the beaches and boardwalks of its western counterparts, it offers visitors the opportunity to discover a new side to the Golden State through a thriving farm-to-fork food scene — one that’s built on a passion for the finest produce and a deep respect for the way in which food can unite communities.
Fresno County’s farms are central to this sun-soaked county, with almost 200 million acres of farmland growing around 300 different types of crops. As a result, the local produce is widely varied, with seasonal offerings that can be tasted at the source.
Take the family-owned Basilwood Farm — both locals and holidaymakers flock here to sign up for the farm’s cheesemaking workshops and to stock up on its legendary goat’s cheese. Or Circle K Ranch, founded in 1946 and now in its third generation of family farming. Here, vast swathes of trees produce a variety of fresh stoned fruit, from peaches and plums to nectarines and raisins.
Seasonal specialties
Time your visit well and you’ll find seasonal fruits gracing menus across the county. August and September are all about perfect peaches, while strawberry fans should consider visiting in May or June. “Peach season and strawberry season are both great times to visit,” says Mike Osegueda, president of Fresno Street Eats, an organisation that coordinates street food events in Fresno County. “The fruits end up on the menus of most of Fresno county’s restaurants and food trucks, and you’ll even find peach and strawberry-flavoured beers at local breweries.”
When it comes to celebrating its seasonal culinary heritage, this is a county that does not disappoint. Particularly popular are the area’s agricultural trails, such as the Fresno County Blossom Trail, open from mid-February to mid-March. Along its almost 70-mile length, visitors can discover events, fruits, farms and breweries as they journey beneath the blossoms. Then, from mid-May to July, the Fresno County Fruit Trail offers visitors the opportunity to sample freshly grown produce, meet local farmers and learn more about the history and culture of the area, all while drinking in the spectacular landscapes.
Other annual events include the autumn Taco Truck Throwdown — when Fresno’s food trucks compete to serve up the tastiest dishes — and June’s Peach Al Pastor parties, when taco trucks serve up traditional al pastor (spit-grilled slices of meat, usually pork) tacos with the addition of locally grown peaches. “It’s a fantastic collaboration between America’s biggest peach growers and our food trucks,” says Mike. “And it’s now gone beyond just tacos — the food trucks also serve peach salsas and peach aguas frescas (drinks made from fruit, water and sugar), for example.”
However, visitors to Fresno County will find more than just traditional fruits on their forks. The produce of the area’s farms has long been both varied and surprising — thanks, in part, to the presence of a large Southeast Asian farming population. Many of Fresno County’s farms are owned by members of the Hmong community, which includes people who fled Laos in the 1970s. These farmers typically grow Southeast Asian crops such as aubergine, lemongrass and moringa. To taste it at its best, visit at the end of December, when Fresno County holds its annual Hmong New Year Celebration — the largest Hmong New Year event in the country. Don’t miss the chance to try the delicious green papayas, best served alongside grilled chicken, cucumber and daikon in a tangy salad.
The chance to sample such delicacies in their freshest form is never far away here. “You’ll find farmers’ stalls a block from fast food drive-throughs and markets across the street from furniture stores,” says Mike. The year-round Old Town Clovis Farmers Market is a favourite among locals, set up in the heart of downtown Clovis. Here, visitors can shop for fresh foods and artisan goods, while discovering a number of local businesses. “It’s this easy access, paired with the availability of the agricultural produce, that makes the area so special,” says Mike.
Creative kitchens
Unsurprisingly perhaps, Fresno County has become a magnet for chefs keen to work closely with their ingredients and champion farm-to-fork dining. “Fresno was all about farm-to-table long before the concept was given that name,” says Ian Cookson, head chef and owner of Libelula, a creative farm-to-table restaurant in Downtown Fresno. He’s particularly passionate about strawberries. “At Libelula, we love to honour this often-underrated berry by giving diners different ways to enjoy a brilliant example of Fresno’s bounty,” says Ian, pointing to the restaurant’s newest menu, which contains strawberry nachos and a strawberry and burrata spring pasta, as well as specialties like banh mi sandwiches, spicy Thai mac and cheese and breakfast fried rice.
It’s this hunger to work with top-quality local produce in increasingly creative ways that sets Fresno County’s chefs apart and has helped cement the area’s reputation as a culinary hotspot. In Old Town Clovis, Trelio Food & Wine use goat’s cheese from nearby Rocky Oaks Goat Cremery to serve up a twist on delicious vadouvan arancini (deep fried rice balls flavoured with Indian spices). Just across the road, The Local uses seasonal ingredients grown by nearby farmers to create a farm-fresh take on American cuisine, with popular dishes including blue garlic fries and artichoke shrimp scampi.
“Just yesterday, a quick conversation with someone segued into us comparing notes on taco trucks — we both had notes on our phones about the trucks and dishes we need to try,” says Mike. And you can bet your bottom dollar that those on the shortlist made the cut because of the quality they’re producing and the word-of-mouth recommendations that come as a result”.
As Mike points out, when the produce is this good, there’s simply no need for viral marketing campaigns or influencer shout-outs . “We might not have the glitz or be considered as ‘on-trend’ as some of our neighbours here in California, but we do have ingredients that come from our soil, passionate people, diverse culinary influences and lots of fantastic places to eat,” says Mike.
Plan your trip
Return flights are available from London to San Francisco and Los Angeles, from which you can fly directly to Fresno Yosemite International airport. Alternatively, both cities are just a few hour’s drive from Fresno County. Once in the area, discover farmers markets, events and trails on the Fresno County app. For more information, go to visitfresnocounty.org
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