From fish pie to beef tartare, 5 things to do with oysters

Travel

Most commonly gulped down raw, straight from the shell, oysters can also add an umami hit to an array of dishes.

ByPaul Ainsworth

Published December 26, 2023

• 3 min read

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

I remember eating my first oyster. I was working for Gordon Ramsay and I’d never seen anything as beautiful as the colour of the shell, while the flavour was minerally — the taste of the ocean. They were once seen as peasant food but perceptions — as well as prices — have changed, and they’ve become a luxury. I’ve seen how time-consuming it is to grow them, though, so that’s largely what you’re paying for. It’s also worth noting they’re one of the most sustainable forms of seafood, as they store carbon, filter the water and protect the coastline.

I love eating them raw, fresh from the water, with a squeeze of lemon, but equally, you can fry, poach or steam them. At my restaurant, we love to gently drop raw oysters into a bordelaise sauce — made with red wine and shallots — and serve them on top of a beef suet pudding, but another great way to enjoy them is to deep-fry them and serve with tartare sauce.

Many people believe oysters ought to be swallowed whole, but to me there seems no pleasure in that. Instead, I recommend using your teeth to break them down in order to appreciate the creamy texture and relish the flavour. And, with native oyster season running from September to April, now’s the perfect time to pick some up from a reputable supplier — ideally on the coast — and enjoy. Paul Ainsworth is chef-owner of The Ainsworth Collection in Cornwall — including Paul Ainsworth at No6, Caffè Rojano, The Mariners and Padstow Townhouse. 

1. Tartare 

Dice up the oysters and fold them through a classic beef tartare. It enhances the seasoning of the dish, providing a saltiness and seaside flavour to the meat.

2. Mayonnaise 

When making homemade mayonnaise, add oysters to your base for an added hit of umami. An oyster mayo goes really well with fried shellfish, such as prawns.

3. Beef and ale pie 

Back in Victorian times, oysters were a common addition to a beef and ale pie, and they remain an excellent way to enhance the dish’s flavour and texture.

4. Breadcrumbed 

Oysters coated in breadcrumbs and fried work well as an alternative to the usual scampi. They’re best enjoyed with a nice dipping sauce or mayonnaise.

5. Fish pie

Try folding oysters and their juices into a fish pie mix at the last moment, before piping creamy mash over the top. They really complement the other fish and shellfish.

Published in Issue 22 (winter 2023) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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