Travel
All hail the mighty smörgåstårta, a Swedish creation that eschews Scandinavian minimalism in favour of creative maximalism. The result? A sandwich that demands its own cake stand.
BySarah Barrell
Published December 3, 2023
• 4 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK)
Served at everything from weddings to funerals, and found in bakeries and supermarkets across Sweden, layered Smörgåstårta ‘cakes’ are a celebration of the savoury. They come in all shapes and sizes and can combine pretty much anything the appetite desires – as long as you include some spreadable elements. Fish pâté, horse radish, crème fraîche and cream cheese are favourites, which are layered with everything from avocado and smoked fish, to cooked prawns and ham — with such classic Scandi garnishes as radish, dill and cucumber as fresh decorative flourishes. Grab your mandolin and get creative.
1. Start with your base
Whisk 100ml of whipping cream to firm-ish peaks, then fold in 1 tbsp horseradish cream. Thinly spread onto four slices of bread. Ideally this would be a hearth-baked flatbread, as made by the Polarbröd brand. White bread, crusts removed, will also do. Layer with smoked or quick-cured salmon (150g total).
2. Build your ‘cake’
Place the slices of bread neatly on top of each other to form the layers of the cake. ‘Ice’ the top and sides with the rest of the horseradish cream mixture, smoothing them using a palette knife.
3. Wrap it with ribbons
Peel four thin long slices from one side of a cucumber, and encircle them around the edges of the cake. You could also use cucumber rounds or avocado and/or some sprinkled herbs; chives, dill and parsley work well.
4. Create some contrast
Cut a few very fine slices from an unwaxed lemon, and mandolin thin rounds from a small, pickled beetroot. Halved cherry tomatoes, radish slices and julienned carrot are also great for adding a pop of colour.
5. Decorate the top
Use a melon-baller to scoop spheres from the remaining cucumber to line the edges. Twist the remaining salmon pieces into flower-like coils. Then, accessorise as you desire — slices of beetroot, lemon slivers, sprigs of dill, salmon roe etc.
6. Chill out
This creation can be made an hour before serving and left in the fridge until you’re ready to eat (up to 24 hours ahead). This particular iteration makes a festive meal for two but can easily be expanded for bigger occasions.
Recipe for quick-cured Juniper salmon:
Fill a pan with 250ml of water. Add 35g coarse salt, 35g granulated sugar and 1 tsp juniper berries, then peel and roughly chop one small raw beetroot and add all ingredients to a pan.
Bring to the boil, simmer to dissolve the sugar and salt, leave to cool until it reaches room temperature, then chill in the fridge.
Finely slice 150g of very fresh salmon (filleted, skinned) into thin slivers. Drop into the cold brine for 7 minutes.
Remove, drain and pat dry with kitchen towel. Discard the brine.
Published in Issue 21 (autumn 2023) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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