This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
From its blasted fells and verdant plateaus to its tangled woods and meandering rivers, the Ribble Valley is a rural wonderland that apparently inspired the otherworldly landscapes of JRR Tolkien’s The Lord of the Rings. It is a natural haven for birders, walkers and cyclists, particularly where this corner of Lancashire merges into the Forest of Bowland, a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
The Ribble Valley also tastes amazing. A seasonal food ethos grows out of its fertile farmland, underpinning the work of Michelin-acclaimed restaurants such as the Northcote in Langho and market-town gems such as Cowman’s sausage shop in Clitheroe. Key local producers, such as cheesemaker Mrs Kirkham’s, enjoy national recognition. Yet none of this feels overexposed. With the majority of travellers passing by the Ribble as they rush north to the Lake District, it continues to offer visitors a sense of discovery.
Where to eat at in the Ribble Valley
1. The Parkers Arms, Newton-in-Bowland
Reaching No 7 on the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs in the UK list in 2023, The Parkers Arms has long been a place of pilgrimage for clued-up foodies. It serves gutsy Lancastrian cooking – and its pies are legendary. But that only tells half the story. Chef Stosie Madi’s work is often deft and light, exemplified by her fish cookery, while her French-Lebanese heritage brings a distinctive flavour to the menu. Dishes might range from minced mutton manoushe flatbreads to braised Bowland rabbit leg, butter-roasted loin, mustard sauce, mash and greens. Passing walkers or cyclists can snack from the bar menu. Three courses, £50.
At the Parkers Arms in Newton-in-Bowland, chef Stosie Madi’s menus showcase deftly cooked fish dishes.
Photograph by Carl Sukonik
2. Northcote, Langho
The valley’s benchmark dining destination for more than three decades, this Michelin-star restaurant and boutique hotel is constantly evolving. From its cookery school to the annual international guest chef event Obsession (in January and February), there are always interesting things happening at Northcote. Expect seasonally driven dishes, such as halibut with Jerusalem artichoke and winter truffle or aged dairy cow tartare, warm bone-marrow, alliums and horseradish, accompanied by exceptional wines from managing director Craig Bancroft’s lovingly curated cellar. Mains from £29; doubles from £216 per night, B&B.
3. La Locanda, Gisburn
High-quality local, seasonal ingredients are the cornerstone of Italian cooking – so, naturally, chef Maurizio Bocchi feels at home in the Ribble Valley. Key imports such as wine and olive oil aside, the Modena native cooks authentic Italian dishes using local meats, game, dairy and vegetables. The menu might include rabbit stuffed with Tuscan sausage and cabbage with rosemary potatoes, or cappellacci pasta filled with pumpkin and amaretti biscuits, finished with butter, sage and hazelnuts – served up in La Locanda’s comfortable farmhouse-style space. Mains from £15.
Chef Maurizio Bocchi brings authentic Italian dishes, like zuppa di pesce (fish soup), to La Locanda’s farmhouse-style space.
Photograph by Sarah Valentine Photography
Homemade goat’s cheese with caramelised shallots at La Locanda.
Photograph by Sarah Valentine Photography
4. The Inn at Whitewell, near Dunsop Bridge
This remote inn on the River Hodder has accommodated travellers since the 16th century. It is an evocative old building; all worn flagstone floors and roaring fires. Eat in its cosy bars or restaurant. First visit? Look to those dishes, such as the fish pie, chicken liver pate or bangers and champ with onion gravy, that have become established classics over many years. Do not miss the in-house wine shop. Mains from £16.50; doubles from £145 per night, room only.
5. Freemasons at Wiswell, near Whalley
A degree of fine dining glitz runs through chef Steven Smith’s polished pub. You will find Sunday roasts as well as complex and creative dishes, such as prawn mousse-filled sea bass with Thai mussel curry, and salt and pepper tempura broccoli. There is a tasting menu, a chef’s table for those who like to watch kitchens work and, for those staying over, four stylish bedrooms. Mains from £39; doubles from £240 per night, B&B.
A flair for fine dining elevates chef Steven Smith’s polished pub, the Freemasons at Wiswell, which offers a tasting menu and a chef’s table for those who like to see the kitchen staff at work.
Photograph by Robin Lyndon
An unmissable experience
Bowland Brewery
In its attractive food hall, upmarket cinema and bowling lanes, Holmes Mill development in Clitheroe offers numerous distractions. Heaven for cask and craft ale drinkers, its large beer hall is also the home to Bowland Brewery, which for 20 years has quenched local thirsts with tipples such as its classic, citrusy pale Hen Harrier or the Bowland Bumble, made with honey from the brewery’s beehives at nearby Little Middop Farm. On select Fridays, outside operational brewing hours, tours offer visitors the chance to learn about the brewing process: from raw malts and hops to the mash tun and the fermentation tanks. A tutored tasting of three third-pints follows. One-hour tours, £20 per person.
Where to stay
The Higher Buck, Waddington
Is Waddington the Ribble Valley’s prettiest village? Fans of Hurst Green, Downham or Chipping might disagree, but this cluster of ancient buildings huddled around a gurgling stream is unquestionably idyllic – and home to three individually compelling pubs (see also The Lower Buck Inn and Waddington Arms). The Higher Buck has seven handsome, well-maintained bedrooms while its crowd-pleasing menu similarly excels. A cheddar soufflé with apple chutney and the Buck’s sensational steamed steak and ale pudding are testament to chef-landlord Michael Heathcote’s rigour. Mains from £17; doubles from £115 per night, B&B.
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