Travel
Home to one of Japan’s flagship beers, the capital of Hokkaido has also become a craft brewing centre. Follow this trail to find microbreweries and hidden taprooms.
ByLucie Grace
Published October 9, 2023
• 4 min read
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Japan has always seen the northernmost of its main islands as a frontier — a place known best to international visitors for its skiing, but also home to the country’s wildest national parks and to the Indigenous culture of the Ainu people. In one respect, though, Hokkaido is at the heart of a Japanese passion, with its brewing heritage dating back almost 150 years, and centred on the fun-loving city of Sapporo.
1. Sapporo Beer Museum
Start at the vast red-brick factory complex of Sapporo’s internationally exported, eponymous lager. Located in the east of town, the on-site museum is free to enter and gives an interesting overview of how the city became one of Asia’s beer capitals after the founding of Sapporo brewery in 1876. The indoor ‘beer garden’ sells a tasting set of three different eras of Sapporo’s light lager.
2. Moon Sun Brewing
A 10-minute bus ride from the museum, this brewpub and diner is easy to spot from the queue that’s usually outside. Servers can suggest beer pairings to go with the lunch menu of local meat platters. The tap list rotates daily, featuring 10 ales, IPAs and lagers, all brewed by Moon Sun, which launched in 2014. There’s a tasting menu of three 150ml beers for ¥1,300 (£7), or pay ¥3,800 (£20) for unlimited pours over two hours.
3. Tap Room Beer Kotan
Two walkable blocks west, Tap Room Beer Kotan is another local favourite. Take the lift up to the third floor and an atmospheric, racing-green drinking space is revealed. Warmly lit and often noisy with a post-work crowd, the bar belongs to Hop Kotan Brewing — one of Hokkaido’s larger microbreweries. The brewery is known for making beer from rare local hops grown in the countryside town of Kamifurano.
4. Beer Bar North Island
Cross the road to Beer Bar North Island, where you can sip delicious house-made pilsner while enjoying far-reaching views of the city from this penthouse bar. One of the classiest beer venues in Sapporo, North Island has been selling its brews for 20 years, with an established tap list of regulars that include a brown ale, IPA and fruity weizen (wheat beer), as well as seasonal brews such as the unmissable Hazelnut Amber Ale.
5. Trans Brewing Beer Stand
One block south, on the ground floor of a shopping arcade, this brightly painted bar is a casual spot where drinkers stand and swig. Trans Brewing Beer Stand only opened in early 2023, but has made a name for itself selling some of the tastiest beers in town. The brewery behind it launched two years ago and is already winning awards. Look out for seasonal flavours such as Lemon Ale.
6. Beer Inn Mugishutei
It’s worth heading downtown, via a short taxi ride south, to end the night at this craft beer inn. Opened in 1980, it’s the oldest bar of its kind in Sapporo. Owner Phred Kaufman — an American expat who Sapporo locals have lovingly nicknamed ‘Beer Santa’ — sells more than 300 different beers from across the world and hosts ‘Meet the Brewer’ events to platform Japanese microbreweries.
Published in the Japan supplement, distributed with the October 2023 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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