This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To most people, ‘Le Mans’ means racing cars. For over a century, this medieval city in the Loire region of northwest France has hosted the annual 24 Hours of Le Mans, an iconic rally around the Circuit de la Sarthe that’s as much a test of stamina as speed. You’ll find plenty of nods here to this rich motoring history, from postcards of classic Aston Martins to a dedicated museum that displays numerous race cars.
But you don’t need to be a petrolhead to fall in love with Le Mans; it’s a place with the most evocative of ancient centres, featuring cobbled alleys, some of the world’s best-preserved Roman walls and a blockbuster of a cathedral with beautiful stained glass. There are both intimate restaurants and busy al fresco bars by the river where you can take a bench seat and soak up the atmosphere. And Le Mans is a springboard to much more besides, from the pottery centre of Malicorne and the rustic charm of the Mancelles Alpes area to the royal city of Loches. And all this can be reached flight-free, with the train journey from St Pancras International taking just four-and-a-half hours.
Day 1: River trails & Old town strolls
Morning
Le Mans can wait — start your day with a 20-mile drive south west to Malicorne-sur-Sarthe. The pretty town, with its 12th-century church and watermills, has been a heartland of French earthenware since the 18th century. Set in a former ceramics factory, the Malicorne Museum of Earthenware and Ceramics lets you try your hand at pottery-making and browse displays of earthenware, from tobacco jars to white Malicorne ducks with yellow feet. Down the road, Boutique Métiers d’Art sells the work of local artisans, including potters and jewellers. Have lunch at quirky Salon Arthé (7 Place de la République), run by painter Katrin Ehlers, with its dining room-cum-studio full of easels and canvases.
Afternoon
On the way back to Le Mans, stop at Roëzé-sur Sarthe to enjoy a riverboat ride. Nautical Adventure rents out watercraft including electric boats, so spend an hour looking for kingfishers on this peaceful stretch of water. After that, crank up the pace at the Motor Museum of the 24 Hours of Le Mans. It showcases 140 racing cars and reveals the history of the epic race with fascinating archive footage. Its Heroes’ Alley tells the tales of individuals who have made special contributions over the years, focusing not only on the drivers but also the engineers who play such a key role in getting the cars across the finish line in the endurance race. You can take a tour of the circuit, too.
Evening
Arrange an evening tour of Le Mans old town with tour guide Nathalie Jupin. You’ll stop at the town hall that was once the palace of Matilda, granddaughter of William the Conqueror, who gave birth here to the future King Henry II of England, and at the Cathedral of Saint Julian of Le Mans, home to a 12th-century stained-glass window. Equally engaging are the town’s smaller details, such as the stone obelisks on street corners that once protected buildings from carriage wheels and the fourth-century arch that leads to a section of Roman wall. Wrap up the day with a meal of veal steak and heritage vegetables at the intimate, wood-beamed Bistrot des Gourmets 6 Rue Barbier.
Day 2: Canopy climbs & abbey visits
Morning
Drive 40 minutes north to the Mancelles Alpes, a region of wooded hills, jagged cliffs and charming villages that follows the valley of the River Sarthe. You can take to the river once more, this time in a canoe or kayak rented from Préférence Plein-Air, just outside the Camping du Sans Souci site in the village of Fresnay-sur-Sarthe. Alternatively, don a safety harness and try a spot of tree climbing in the commune of St Léonard-des-Bois. Parc Aventures du Gasseau has constructed a series of rope walkways, tunnels and swings among the oak trees in the grounds of its restaurant, La Maison du Gasseau. Afterwards, enjoy a lunch made from organic, local produce on the atmospheric terrace of the chateau.
Afternoon
Heading back to Le Mans, make a stop 10 minutes from the centre at the L’Épau Abbey. This Cistercian complex was founded in 1229 by the English queen Berengaria of Navarre, widow of Richard the Lionheart, who’d been killed in battle 30 years earlier. A skeleton discovered in the abbey church in the 1960s is thought to be hers and has since been reunited with her tombstone here. You get a real feel for monastic life as you explore, calling in at the dormitory, where the monks slept on mats on the floor; the scriptorium, where they copied manuscripts; and the church, where they prayed eight times a day. Afterwards, take a walk through the Arch of Nature, a two-square-mile reserve that abuts the abbey grounds and includes a nature trail featuring artworks inspired by local wildlife.
Evening
Dinner is in Le Mans at Brasserie Madeleine (7 Place des Jacobins), a family-run restaurant in a square overlooking the cathedral. it serves a good selection of seafood dishes — lobster, oysters, mussels and more — and a fabulously creamy rillette on thick pieces of toast. Then it’s time for La Nuit des Chimères, a free light show. At sundown every day in summer, more than 20 of the city’s buildings, walls and trees are illuminated with colourful images, from fairytale characters and historical symbols to portraits of locals who’ve made a special contribution to life here. The tourist office has a map with a walking route that takes in the illuminations. Round off the evening with a drink at Guingette des Tanneries (Square des Tanneries, Quai Louis Blanc), a relaxed riverside restaurant.
Where to stay in Le Mans
1. La Maison du Gasseau
A blue-grey stone chateau with green shutters in the Mancelles Alpes, this place was built as a family home in 1939 and now offers six guest rooms with exposed beams and wooden floors. The breakfast features freshly baked scones, local honey and home-churned butter.
2. Domaine de L’Epau
With grass rolling over their roofs, the six eco-lodges here look like Hobbit homes buried in the landscape. The interiors are unfussy and modern, with terraces perfect for an evening tipple. Kitchenettes mean you can self-cater but the complex also has a bar and restaurant.
3. Montmirail castle
Parts of this castle, standing proud between Le Mans and Chartres, date back to the 12th century. Its guest rooms brim with a sense of history, and each is individually decorated with heritage features such as four-poster beds and elegant wood panelling.
4. Aventure Nautique
Set on the banks of the River Sarthe in Roëzé-sur-Sarthe, Aventure Nautique has 10 bell tents that allow full but comfortable immersion in nature. Hire one of the site’s paddleboards or electric boats for a river adventure then kick back with a mojito at the characterful bar set in a shack.
5. Maison Courtin
In La Chartre-sur-le-Loire, Maison Courtin is owned and run by Grégoire Courtin, who rents out a couple of guest rooms furnished in 19th-century style. He’s also the proprietor of the adjacent brush shop and homeware museum and will gladly give you a tour of his hoard of curiosities, ranging from model Aston Martins to 18th-century medical instruments.
La Maison du Gasseau is the perfect place to savour local produce.
Photograph by Juliette Denis
What to eat in Le Mans
1. Rillettes
A pâté of shredded pork cooked in fat that’s typically smothered on toast, rillettes originated in nearby Touraine but became associated with Le Mans when a local started selling it to passengers passing through on the train. There are several annual celebrations of the speciality, including the annual Spring of Rillettes festival held in Sarthe.
2. Chenin blanc
One of the Loire’s wine-producing areas in the south of Sarthe, Jasnieres is well worth a look. Its Chenin Blanc wines date to the Middle Ages when they were made by Cistercian monks. They range from dry to fiercely sweet. Try them at the Domaine des Gauletteries winery in Ruillé-sur-Loir.
3. Sablé biscuits
The classic Sablé biscuit, a crimp-edged shortbread, is thought to have originated during the 17th century in Sablé-sur-Sarthe. Named after the French word for ‘sandy’, there are both sweet (orange, lemon, almond) and savoury (green pepper, parmesan) versions. Take a tour of the Biscuiterie La Sablésienne biscuit factory, in operation since 1962.
What to do in Loches
1. Château de Loches and the Donjon
The royal city of Loches is dominated by its elevated medieval royal quarter, surrounded by a fortified wall and featuring Charles VII’s royal residence, famously visited by Joan of Arc in 1429. Most impressive of all is the Donjon, an 11th-century castle tower containing dungeons etched with the graffiti of unfortunate former captives. The castle has a varied royal history that includes occupation by the one-time king of England, Richard the Lionheart, in the 12th century. Visitors are issued with interactive tablets that bring the past to life by showing how each of the rooms would have looked in its prime.
The village of Abilly has a relaxing cycle path through woodland and fields of sunflowers.
Photograph by Pascal Beltrami
2. Cultu’raids Concept
The city sits on the Indre River, an idyllic tributary of the Loire. You can gain a deeper appreciation of it by renting a canoe from Cultu’raids Concept, which has a base near the centre. From here, you can explore a quiet stretch of the water, allowing you to feel a world away from civilisation. The river is narrow and shallow, winding through a tunnel of overhanging trees. One option is to paddle five miles to the watermill at St Jean, perhaps escorted by grey wagtails, flashing yellow as they flit from stone to stone on the river bed. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of red deer through the branches on the banks. You can also rent standup paddleboards from the company.
3. Green Route
A 35-minute drive south west of Loches is the village of Abilly, where you can rent bikes and e-bikes at Les Vélos de Paulette (8 Avenue des Termelles) and join the Green Route, a relaxing cycle path through woodland and fields of sunflowers. After five miles, a road takes you uphill through the village of Le Grand-Pressigny to a 12th-century chateau — guarded by a large model of a woolly mammoth — that now houses a museum of prehistory. Returning to Loches, if you wish to stay overnight, check in to the Hôtel de la Cité Royale, housed in the 19th-century Palais of Justice. Its terrace has views over the city’s castle and church.
How to do it:
Take the Eurostar from St Pancras International to Lille-Europe, from where there are direct connections to Le Mans, or to Paris Gare du Nord before taking the Métro to Paris Montparnasse for trains to Le Mans. Several car rental companies have offices at Le Mans station, including Avis. Alternatively, take your own car by ferry or via the Channel Tunnel; it’s a four-hour drive from Calais.
Published in the May 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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