Travel
In this city — one of the country’s biggest urban sprawls — you’ll find Victorian buildings and modern glass cubes, hushed tones in an industrial museum and roaring laughter in comedy clubs. And we haven’t even mentioned football yet.
ByDaniel Stables
Photographs ByToby Mitchell
Published February 2, 2024
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Manchester has long had a progressive spirit, from its role as the cradle of the Industrial Revolution to a nightlife that’s spoken about with revered tones all around the country. But today, a visit to this Northern city is just as likely to be about its varied architecture, Scandi-style bars serving natural wines and larger-than-life football clubs. Here’s how to take it all in on a perfect 14-hour itinerary.
8am: Breakfast at Federal
Australian both in its laid-back atmosphere and its menu, Federal’s signature breakfast dishes include smashed avocado, halloumi and mushrooms on toasted sourdough, while the upcycled wood tables and tiled walls are archetypal Manchester cool. There are three branches in town, including one on Deansgate, a major shopping and business street. Space is limited and there are no reservations, so get here early.
10am: Explore the industrial past
Manchester is often described as the cradle of the Industrial Revolution, with developments in manufacturing leading to an explosion in textile mills in the 19th century that changed the global economy. Among other innovations, it was the site of the world’s first intercity railway (between here and Liverpool), the old warehouse of which has been converted into the fantastic Science and Industry Museum. It tells the story of the city’s contributions to commerce, transport and computing.
12pm: Admire awesome architecture
Walk up Deansgate and you’ll experience the varied architecture typical of Manchester, with modern glass cubes side-by-side with magnificent Victorian buildings. The turreted neo-gothic structure of the John Rylands Library fits firmly in the latter category. Its vaulted corridors hide treasures such as medieval manuscripts and the Rylands Papyri, the oldest known New Testament fragments.
2pm: Lunch at Hawksmoor
A few doors down is one of Manchester’s most handsomely situated restaurants. Housed in a high-ceilinged Victorian former courthouse, the walls painted racing green, Hawksmoor is justly acclaimed for its seafood — the Jersey Rock oysters are unforgettable, as are the white port-roasted scallops. The headline attraction, though, is the dry-aged steak, accompanied by sides such as grilled bone marrow, beef dripping fries and macaroni cheese. Leave time, too, for a martini in the Lowback Bar.
4pm: Discover football heritage
Walk north up Deansgate for 10 minutes or so and you’ll meet the honey-stoned gothic frontage of Manchester Cathedral, well worth a look inside for its beautifully carved medieval woodwork. Then head next door to learn more about Manchester’s greatest love: football. It can be tricky for visitors to get tickets for Manchester United or Manchester City matches, so try the modern National Football Museum instead. It harbours the world’s largest public collection of football artefacts, including shirts, trophies and historical documents.
6pm: Go on a street art tour
Get to know the bohemian Northern Quarter by embarking on a tour of its street art, some of which changes periodically but much of which has become an iconic and unchanging feature of Manchester’s urban landscape. Highlights include a mural of a blue tit on the corner of Newton Street; a wall on Church Street depicting two goddesses; and a famous portrait on Stevenson Square depicting Ste Wing, a Mancunian stylist. If the weather’s good, have an outdoor drink at one of the bars on pedestrianised Thomas Street, which is itself covered in a rotating selection of murals.
8pm: Catch some comedy
On Great Ancoats Street, the northern frontier of the Northern Quarter, lies Frog and Bucket, Manchester’s most famous comedy club. The likes of Johnny Vegas and Peter Kay cut their teeth on the stage here, and it continues to attract established touring acts. Often the most special nights, though, are the Beat the Frog open mic sessions, where you might just be lucky enough to catch the next big thing. A few doors down is legendary music venue Band on the Wall, where there’s always something worth seeing, from northern soul DJs to reggae groups.
10pm: Have dinner and drinks in Ancoats
Next to Band on the Wall is Mackie Mayor, a 19th-century market hall full of food vendors and bars. Stop for a drink and some food at whichever venue catches your eye, then wander the neighbourhood of Ancoats, where Victorian cotton mills and warehouses have been repurposed as bars and restaurants. Stop for a cocktail at the elegant bar and restaurant Jane Eyre, then wander over to current cool spot New Islington Marina, a redeveloped canal-side area. Pull up a counter seat at Scandi-style bar Flawd and have a glass of natural wine overlooking the barges on the canal.
Getting there and around:
Manchester is well connected to other major UK cities by train and bus.
Trains run to Manchester Piccadilly from London Euston (2h 15m; from £77 return), Edinburgh (3h 15m; from £40 return) and Birmingham (1h 40m; from £46 return). Buses (operated by Megabus and National Express) ply the same routes, and more, at much cheaper prices, but take a lot longer.
The city centre is fairly compact and easy to explore on foot. Greater Manchester is well served by the efficient tram network, the Metrolink, as well as numerous buses.
When to go:
Manchester is known for its dreary weather, although it only ranked 15th in a poll of the UK’s wettest cities by rainfall volume. Light drizzle is a near-inevitability year-round, though, so make sure you pack a parka. Summer can be nice enough, with some sunny days and average highs of 20C in July and August, while winters are relatively mild, with average highs of 7C in January. Layer up, and be sure to bring something waterproof for when the rain comes.
Where to stay:
Dakota, Northern Quarter. Doubles from £171, B&B.
Cow Hollow, Northern Quarter. Doubles from £99, room only.
Kimpton Clocktower Hotel, Oxford Road. Doubles from £103, B&B.
More info:
Visit Manchester
Rough Guide to England. £18.99
Published in the Jan/Feb 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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