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Travel
Hop on Edinburgh’s recently extended tram network and wind your way from the city centre to the port district of Leith.
ByRobin McKelvie
Published January 4, 2024
• 4 min read
This story was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
On 7 June 2023, trams ran down Leith Walk for the first time in 67 years, opening up parts of Edinburgh little trammelled by visitors. The new 2.91-mile, eight-stop route sweeps north from Edinburgh’s heart to meet the Firth of Forth at the docks district of Leith, then turns west to reach its end at Newhaven’s historic harbour. The arrival of the trams has injected life along the way: Leith Walk’s pavements have been widened, and new cafes, bars and restaurants are drawing in locals and travellers alike.
1. Picardy Place
Start at the tram stop at Picardy Place, a recently remodelled plaza atop Leith Walk. Look out for the statue of Sherlock Holmes, marking the birthplace of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, author of the fictional detective’s adventures. If it’s a clear day, walk to Calton Hill for a view of the route down to Leith and the Firth of Forth, as well as city highlights including Arthur’s Seat, the Palace of Holyroodhouse and Edinburgh Castle.
2. Balfour Street
Take the tram to Balfour Street, then stroll over to Easter Road, drily nicknamed ‘Feaster Road’ due to its recent rebirth as a culinary hotspot. Breakfast options abound: grab coffee from Foodstory and a sweet bite at Écosse Éclair or vegan cafe Plant Bae. Edinburgh Honey Co’s whisky-infused nectar makes a great souvenir.
3. Foot of the Walk
Hop off the tram here, on the northern reaches of Leith Walk, and explore the leafy grounds of Leith Links, originally designed as a golf course and now a public park. Make a plan to return to the area at sundown to check out Leith Depot, a much-loved arts and culture venue. As well as offering great-value food and drinks, it stages live music and club nights, including a monthly residency by BBC Radio DJ Vic Galloway.
4. The Shore
Ships from the Baltic states and Low Countries once bustled away in Leith’s quay, a short walk from The Shore tram stop. Many of the area’s old merchant homes and warehouses are now cool cafes and Michelin-starred restaurants, including Martin Wishart, which serves modern European cuisine, and Heron, where chefs Sam Yorke and Tomás Gormley get creative with Scotland’s natural larder.
5. Ocean Terminal
Exit at this stop to explore the former industrial docklands, where the Royal Yacht Britannia is now berthed as a floating museum showcasing the vessel’s lifetime of service for the British monarchy. Alternatively, a tour of the new, neighbouring Port of Leith Distillery — the UK’s first vertical distillery — offers the chance to admire the view over the Firth of Forth and savour a dram.
6. Newhaven
The journey comes to an end with the tangy sea salt in the air and the squawk of seagulls overhead. Now a district of Edinburgh, the historic harbour of Newhaven was once an independent fishing village, and shellfish boats can still be seen bobbing on its waters. Try fish and chips from The Fishmarket, or tuck into shellfish and a glass of fizz at Loch Fyne.
This story was created with the support of Forever Edinburgh.
Published in the Jan/Feb 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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