This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Paul Cézanne thought Annecy picturesque to a fault. He’s said to have sneered when visiting in 1896, dismissing it as a landscape for travel sketchbooks. It could be why, when he painted it anyway, his work — titled Le Lac d’Annecy — portrayed a wilder scene than many might expect. Framing the view from Talloires, it captured the gentleness of the lake but a sense of mystery to the mountains behind it, too.
In life as in art, the allure of this destination lies in this contrast. Lake Annecy is found within the Annecy Mountains region, which includes the Aravis range and villages of Le Grand-Bornand, La Clusaz and Manigod. In summer, this means the best of both Alpine worlds: mess about on the water, then head higher for hiking, biking and fresh air.
Away from the trails, Annecy town is marking 20 years as one of France’s ‘Villes et Pays d’Art et d’Histoire’, a label for destinations that promote their heritage; it has 28 historic sites to discover. Celebrate in August with the annual Fête du Lac, Europe’s largest firework display, or Au Bonheur des Mômes, a festival that brings theatre, dance and a mischievous spirit to Le Grand-Bonard.
Day 1: Cycling & city life
Morning
To get a sense of the scale and beauty of the Annecy region, start with a cycling tour of the lake. Pack chocolate flapjacks from retro-style cafe Le Bar Roux d’Heure in Annecy town before picking up bikes from Roul’Ma Poule on Rue des Marquisats, a five-minute walk away. It couldn’t be better located, right opposite the beginning of the Voie Verte du lac d’Annecy — one of the oldest greenways in France. There’s the chance to complete a 26-mile, mostly flat loop around the lake; it takes around three hours to finish, but time goes by quickly as you pedal between beaches and small villages, and past gardens bursting with hollyhocks, bougainvillea and oleanders.
Afternoon
Lots of boulangeries surround the Jardins de L’Europe park at the water’s edge of Annecy town, so pick up a quiche and find a shady bench for a picnic lunch. Then, join a guided tour led by local enthusiasts of the old town. It’s a maze of medieval streets lined with arcades and arches, crisscrossed with canals and offshoots of the River Thiou. At its mouth, you can’t miss the Palais de l’Ile — built on a rocky island in the 12th century as the lord of Annecy’s residence, it’s since been a prison, court and mint. Now surrounded by cafe terraces and colourful canal-side houses, with window boxes filled with geraniums, it’s Annecy’s most picturesque spot.
Visitors to Annecy must join a guided tour through the medieval old town.
Photograph by incamerastock, Alamy
Evening
Book a private dinner with Annecy Lounge Boat to feast on local charcuterie and cheese fondue as you cruise at sunset. It’s a good option for families or larger groups; the boats seat up to 12, and every seat offers tremendous views. Alternatively, hop on board a water taxi and head south to the shoreside village of Doussard, where the private pontoon of La Cuillère à Omble sets the scene for the seafood feast to come. This bistro sources char, pike, perch and more from Haute-Savoie’s three lakes and serves them on a terrace by the water. The restaurant is right by the Bout du Lac Nature Reserve, one of the lake’s last untouched stretches of shore, ensuring a tranquillity unmatched elsewhere.
Day 2: Mountain drives & mighty peaks
Morning
After a day on the lake, it’s time to head into the mountains, and while it’s possible to get around by bus, renting a car means stopping whenever a view catches your eye. Take a pit stop in the village of Manigod, a 30-minute drive from Annecy, where the Lo Garâjo coffeeshop has unbeatable views of the Aravis massif as well as a wine cellar, craft beers, a bookstore and a boutique. Continue over the Col de la Croix Fry into La Clusaz before climbing back up to Le Grand-Bornand — a spectacular drive on winding Alpine roads. A lunch of Reblochon cheese and blackberry tart is served at La Clé des Annes on the Col des Annes, where ingredients are largely sourced from the restaurant’s own farm.
Afternoon
Walk off your meal exploring the surrounding Alpine meadow on marked footpaths, where the silence is broken only by the occasional ringing of a cow bell. For a gentle and panoramic stroll, head to Les Terres Rouges restaurant and loop back via the Fenil farm. Alternatively, allow at least two hours for the six-mile round trek from the Col des Annes to the Gramusset refuge at the base of Pointe Percée, the Aravis’ highest peak at 2,750m. When you start getting tired, drive down to Le Grand-Bonard to recharge at the cosy Shed Cafe. One of the latest additions to the village, it serves coffee, homemade smoothies and sweet treats — as well as beers, depending on your mood.
For a day of mountain driving, nothing compares to the scenery of Le Grand-Bornand.
Photograph by Hemis, Alamy
Evening
In 2000, a group of artists joined forces to celebrate Le Grand-Bonard’s 2,000 inhabitants and 2,000 cows grazing on pastures at 6,560ft (2,000m). Aptly called The Cow Trail, the works are dotted around the village and include sculptures, murals and photo installations. Keep an eye out as you make your way to Confins des Sens, a stone-and-wood affair with a terrace facing the Aravis. It’s the place for mountain food with a gourmet twist: partners for more than 20 years, chefs Anthony Barrucand and Jean-Sébastien Faber change the menu seasonally, but expect everything from scallops with butternut squash, citrus and honey to veal with parsley sabayon and potatoes.
The best water activities to do in Annecy
1. Freediving
Freedive in Lake Annecy with Planète Apnée, a venture launched in 2023 to tap into the sport’s growing popularity. There are sessions for beginners, as well as outings that will have you float over a shipwreck.
2. Toumo yoga
Inspired by a Tibetan method, this yoga class features breathing techniques and visualisation — plus controlled exposure to spring-fresh, icy-cold water in mountain streams above Le Grand-Bornand.
3. Kayaking
Spot pike and perch as you glide in a see-through kayak around Lake Annecy. Watersports specialist Gliss’cool is based in Angon, an easy paddle away from Talloires and Roc de Chère National Nature Reserve.
4. Canyoning
Walk up streams, jump from waterfalls and abseil down the rock faces of pretty Angon canyon. As long as you can swim, you’re welcome — the guides will tailor the half-day experience accordingly.
5. Water hiking
A gentle form of canyoning, this is ideal for children aged six and over. Walk through a river in La Sambuy, sometimes sliding down rocks, sometimes splashing into pools.
Where to stay near Lake Annecy
1. Là Haut
Set in the Massif des Bauges Regional Nature Park, this is a mountain refuge dressed up as a chic chalet, complete with a barrel-shaped sauna. Opt for the Shelters Experience to sleep inside a metal shelter repurposed from polar expeditions.
2. Refuge de la Pointe Percée
Originally built in 1928, this is a mountain refuge through and through, so expect shared dorm rooms and communal dining. It’s a three-hour hike from Le Grand-Bornand but worth it for the sunsets on nearby Pic de Jallouvre alone.
3. Chalet Sisar
Accessed via a dirt track through the forest, this renovated old farm sits on the Beauregard plateau, high above the village of La Clusaz. There are five bedrooms sleeping up to 12, a huge south-facing terrace and myriad trails right on the doorstep.
How to do it:
A short walk from Annecy town centre, Annecy station is served by a direct TGV line from Paris; alternatively, it’s a 40-minute drive from Geneva airport. Regular buses run from Annecy to villages including La Clusaz and Le Grand-Bornand.
This story was created with the support of Annecy Mountains.
Published in the Alps guide 2024, distributed with the May 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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