Travel
One of the world’s great coastal drives, the Garden Route offers food, adventure, culture and beach time in equal measure.
ByHeather Richardson
Published February 25, 2024
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
The setting for arguably South Africa’s most scenic road trip, the Garden Route runs for 125 miles along the country’s southern coast, from Mossel Bay (about 240 miles east of Cape Town) east to Storms River. The ocean-hugging N2 road — as it’s more prosaically known — cuts between sandy beaches, pretty towns and dense patches of indigenous forest, with the Outeniqua Mountains a short distance inland. A road trip along it allows for experiences that range from adrenaline-pumping bungee jumps to leisurely wine tastings, and a plate of oysters at a waterside restaurant rounding off the perfect day.
Day One
Mossel Bay is something of an adventure hub, home to a zip-line that extends over the ocean — at 3,773ft, the longest of its kind in the world — and the chance to sandboard down the 1,148ft-long Dragon Dune, South Africa’s largest. It’s not all adrenaline-drenched escapades though. There’s evidence of Middle Stone Age human inhabitation at the Point of Human Origins archaeological site, including tools dating back 160,000 years. From here, you can take a detour inland to the Outeniqua Mountains, which run along the southern coast, with options for day hikes.
Day Two
It’s a 50-minute drive to the tiny town of Wilderness. The beach here is a long sweep of platinum-blonde sand backed by frothing waves in which dolphins play. The Wilderness section of the Garden Route National Park is a protected area of indigenous forests and coastal rivers and lakes. At the Wilderness Ebb-and-Flow Rest Camp, guests can rent a canoe to paddle down the Touws River, looking out for fish eagles and the half-collared kingfisher. There’s also a walking trail dedicated to the latter and one to an Outeniqua yellowwood tree thought to be over 800 years old.
Day Three
The lagoon-side town of Knysna, 40 minutes from Wilderness, is a popular holiday destination for South Africans and visitors from further afield. Whale-watching season, when southern right and humpback whales can be seen along the coast, runs from June to November. Another major draw is food, mainly seafood — oysters being a speciality. The waterfront restaurant, wine shop and deli, 34 South, serves both wild and cultivated oysters in a host of ways, from ceviche to panko fried. Other ocean-view restaurants worth trying are Tapas & Oysters, for seafood and tapas-style dishes, and O Pescador, for South African-Portuguese cuisine, including grilled sardines.
Day Four
Half an hour from Knysna is Plettenberg Bay, another well-established holiday town. There’s great accommodation here, including The Plettenberg, a boutique hotel with ocean-facing pools and direct beach access. Outside town, there’s the chance to sample cool-climate Sauvignon Blancs and sparkling Méthode Cap Classique (traditionally made South African sparkling wines) at producers such as Bramon Wine Estate or Newstead Wine Estate. There are less leisurely pursuits, too, like canyoning. It’s also possible to spot great white sharks in the shallow coastal waters off Robberg Nature Reserve.
Day Five
From the village of Nature’s Valley, 30 minutes away, it’s possible to sample a section of the 39-mile Tsitsikamma Trail on an overnight hike. The 11-mile chunk leads through indigenous afromontane forest and native fynbos vegetation. Adventure sports company MTO Trails offers a ‘slackpacking’ service that drops food and luggage at a basic overnight hut on the route, meaning you need only carry a daypack, and can arrange for a shuttle back to your car the next morning. There are also day hikes from Nature’s Valley, including the four-mile Groot River Trail, which follows the river to a beach before looping back. Maps and permits are available at Nature’s Valley Rest Camp.
Day Six
Between Nature’s Valley and Storms River is the 709ft bungee jump — one of the world’s highest — from Bloukrans Bridge. It starts with a zip-line to the jump point. For a softer thrill, the SkyWalk affords river gorge views from the bridge’s suspended walkway. Storms River is the official end of the Garden Route — travellers craving one final adventure can explore the town’s gorge by kayak.
Published in the March 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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