Travel
From well-kept beer to classic decor, some pubs just manage to get the basics right.
ByThe Thinking Drinkers
Published January 12, 2024
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Whatever trends come and go, there should always be a place for proper pubs — those iconic institutions that have been the cornerstone of British culture for centuries. A purist’s pub is their safe place — a calming quarantine of quiet contemplation, a serene antidote to modern-day madness, a cosy asylum where one can clutch a pint to one’s chest.
In such a pub, there should be no loud music, no spirit-sapping Sky Sports and ideally no fancy food that requires holding cutlery in a hand that could otherwise be wrapped around a drink. There certainly shouldn’t be any flashing fruit machines giving you the glittering glad-eye. Being served should involve orderly queuing and never, under any circumstances, a QR code.
There should be beer, wine and spirits, offered without the tyranny of too much choice. There should be nuts and crisps. There should, preferably, be some kind of dog and a piano. If the dog plays the piano, that’s even better. And, ultimately, there should be no compelling reason to leave.
1. The Bell Inn, Aldworth
This idyllic pub dates back to the 16th century, and it certainly shows — stepping through the arched doorway is like indulging in a bit of time travel. Low beamed ceilings, an enormous oak fireplace and a fabulous flagstone floor warped by the generations of thirsty ramblers keeps things cosy in winter, while in summer, the glorious beer garden is an oasis of calm. Beers are pulled in immaculate condition and served alongside warm crusty rolls stuffed with ham, ox tongue, cheddar, stilton or crab – plus little pots of English mustard and chutney.
2. The Oxford Bar, Edinburgh
Auld Reekie is littered with lovely locals, ideal for those seeking refuge from the rain. But few commit themselves so steadfastly to plain and unfussy ‘pubbery’ quite like The Oxford Bar, famously frequented by novelist Ian Rankin and his fictional detective inspector John Rebus. Refreshingly clean of Caledonian cliches and attracting every kind of character Edinburgh has to offer, it’s a great place to perch at the bar with beer or whisky in hand.
3. Southampton Arms, North London
A sign proclaiming ‘Ale. Cider. Meat’ adorns the outside wall of this Kentish Town boozer, and that’s what it does — really well. Cold-shouldering the pernicious creep of ‘corporate craft’, the 16 taps on the small bar only dispense beers and ciders from independent breweries and cidermakers — but don’t worry, it’s not a hipster ‘craft’ hangout and nor is it a haven for beer bores. The offering here is simplicity itself — a piano but no wi-fi, bookings or even a phone.
4. The Dyffryn Arms, Cwm Gwaun
Perched on the edge of the picturesque Preseli Hills, this time-warp tavern is extraordinarily old fashioned. Known as ‘Bessie’s’ after the legendary landlady who died in late 2023, it’s more a tiny living room than a local. On ringing a bell, the hatch is opened and just one beer, Bass, is served fresh. Beyond a handful of chairs and tables, there’s a portrait of Queen Elizabeth II and two benches outside. Perfection.
5. Ypres Inn, Rye
A tranquil pub with a white weatherboarded exterior, low-beamed interior with a log fire, and sprawling garden with views of Rye’s magnificent medieval castle. The focus at the bar is entirely on great beer, local cider and natural wine, while the food is simply pork pies, Sussex cheeses and cured meats.
6. Pride of Spitalfields, east London
This traditional East End institution in Brick Lane has evaded the tiptoe of gentrification in favour of basic boozer principles — drinking and talking. It’s a terrific throwback with a tiny bar full of old-school regulars and cool young folk drawn in by the remarkably reasonable prices. What’s more, it’s one of the few pubs to persevere with a carpet. Classic British cask is served fresh and unflustered and there’s a ‘Joanna’ in the corner.
7. Basketmakers, Brighton
The old tobacco tins nailed to the walls are a nice touch at this lovely low-ceilinged institution. Each contains a joke, anecdote, erudite advice or surrealist scribblings courtesy of the leftfield characters that cram into this cosy, corner pub in Brighton’s bohemian North Laine. Purists may not like the fact that proper food is served but, fear not, it doesn’t detract from the discerning drinking — it boasts eight well-kept cask ales and a superb selection of spirits.
8. The Blisland Inn, Cornwall
This dog-friendly destination is a genuine gem of a pub — and a rich reward after a ramble on the wild and rugged Bodmin Moor. There’s a bit of fancy food here but with tankards and Toby jugs dangling from the beams, the beer is, first and foremost, the focus. The heart-warming selection of hand-pulls on the bar has, unsurprisingly, won it a whole load of pub gongs and you can soak up the suds with scotch eggs and pork pies.
9. The Magnet, Stockport
You may have heard talk that Stockport is becoming trendy — with The Magnet attracting a lot of attention. And quite rightly, too. If everyone had a neighbourhood local like this, the world would be a better place. Spread across several rooms, it gets all the basic things bang-on with a no-frills focus on drinks, snacks and, crucially, the community. Beyond a brilliant beer selection and impressive array of gins, there are pub games and a sun-soaked beer garden.
10. Birch Hall Inn, North Yorkshire
Nestled in the spectacular North York Moors National Park, this eccentric, uplifting idyll of an inn is the smallest pub in Yorkshire. Consisting of two taverns separated by an abundantly stocked, old-fashioned sweet shop, it’s where hikers and holidaymakers bump elbows as they enjoy a well-maintained range of ales served alongside pork pies and pickles, stotties and its well-known ‘beer cake’. There’s no wi-fi and its cash only. It’s brilliant.
11. Queens Head, Cambridgeshire
Renowned for its brilliant beer served direct from the barrel, bar skittles and its selection of colour-coded soups, this famous, family-run free house, festooned in dried hops, is one of only five pubs to have featured in all 51 editions of the Campaign for Real Ale’s (Camra) Good Beer Guide. A popular pit-stop for cyclists, it also features regular visits from local food trucks.
12. Sunflower, Belfast
The security cage on the front door is a relic from the city’s more troubled times, but don’t let that put you off. This awesome, award-winning alehouse on the corner of Union Street is unashamedly old school in its approach, shunning gimmicks in favour of great beer and live music seven nights a week. It also has a beer garden, while the ‘No Topless Bathing, Ulster has suffered enough’ sign has achieved iconic Instagram status.
Published in Issue 22 (winter 2023) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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