This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Stretching out below the peak of Kráľova Hoľa in central Slovakia is the region of Horehronie. Known for the rich biodiversity of its mountains, meadows and valleys — containing four national parks — the area draws hikers, mountain bikers and skiers. There’s folk culture and industrial heritage to discover, too, which passionate locals are keen to preserve.
Horehronie’s valleys are dotted with remains of the region’s industrial past, including railways once used to transport timber. Relics include a railway carriage in the village of Telgárt converted into Depo Café, which serves coffee and cake. Some 35 miles to the west, the narrow-guage railway at Čierny Balog is an obligatory school trip for Slovakian children. The trains passing through here host reenactments featuring 18th century local folk hero and bandit Jakub Surovec, with musicians such as Maroš Smreča playing the accordion to entertain passengers.
Photograph by Daniel Alford
The trains passing through here were terrorised in the 18th century by local folk hero and bandit Jakub Surovec, who gave the spoils to the poor. The railway still runs — there are even reenactments of his hold-ups, with musicians such as Maroš Smrečan playing the accordion to entertain passengers.
Photograph by Daniel Alford (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Daniel Alford (Bottom) (Right)
At 281sq miles, Low Tatras National Park is the largest in Slovakia, and bears, wolves and lynx thrive on its densely forested mountain slopes. Parts of it are restricted, with access granted only to ecologists and rangers in order to protect the wildlife.
Photograph by Daniel Alford
In the wider park, people enjoy hiking and cycling, stopping to spot flora and fungi, such as the fairytale-like, but highly toxic, fly agaric mushroom. Slovakia has one of the best marked trail systems in Europe, and in Horehronie some of these follow old logging roads. Along these routes, visitors will find cabins and bunkhouses, like the one at Andrejcová, a welcome respite after a long day’s walk.
Photograph by Daniel Alford (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Daniel Alford (Bottom) (Right)
Eastern Horehronie is dominated by ‘the mother of four rivers’, Kráľova hoľa. Four rivers spring from the mountain’s southern slope and it’s become a national monument, featuring in songs, poems and folklore. It’s part of the longest ridgeline in the country and was used as a place of refuge by partisans fighting the Nazis during the latter stages of the Second World War.
Photograph by Daniel Alford
Today, climbing Kráľova hoľa and walking the Trail of the Slovak National Uprising Heroes is a rite of passage for many Slovakians. The hike offers spectacular views, plus the chance to pick wild cranberries in late summer — as long as you get to them before the bears.
Photograph by Daniel Alford (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Daniel Alford (Bottom) (Right)
As well as being rich in timber, Horehronie was home to Slovakia’s iron production in the 18th and 19th centuries. Local historians and architects are currently working to preserve relevant sites in the region — such as this pink building in Zlatno, once used as a forge — to create a 12-mile ‘Iron Route’.
Photograph by Daniel Alford
Villages in this area are also known for their diverse folk culture, which derives from a history of herding and shepherding that predates industrialisation. These traditions are kept alive by craftspeople in the village of Polomka, which is home to a folk museum with archive photo displays and a ceramics studio that runs pottery classes.
Photograph by Daniel Alford
Published in the Jul/Aug 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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