So many of us have bought a cheap dress or shirt on a whim, only for it to be worn once (if at all) and consigned to the back of the closet. Perhaps you’ve even bought a pair of shoes just to realize you already had a very similar pair at home. Even worse, sometimes the article falls apart after one wash, and it ends up in the trash.
These shared experiences with so-called “fast fashion” often come with guilt—not just for the money spent, but also because it encourages the unethical treatment of workers, and adds to the impact unwanted clothes have on our planet.
“Fast fashion is very cheap prices, very low cost materials, not paying staff the legal minimum wage for that country or region, and a heavy marketing strategy of ‘get it now or regret it’,” says Jennfer Walderdorff, sustainable fashion consultant and author of Look @ the Labels. “Conversely, slow fashion is higher quality fabrics, they’re paying staff fairly, they’re not flying things from A to B. Everything is more considered compared to fast fashion, which is more fleeting, micro-trends.”
Despite increasing awareness of the human and environmental costs of fast fashion, not everyone has the option of shopping more sustainably. With rising inflation in the U.S. increasing all costs of living, and sustainable sizing options a rarity, many wonder if they can afford ethical and sustainable clothing that fits them.
But experts say you don’t have to break the bank to shop slow—sustainably and ethically. Here’s where to start.
You’ve heard it before: Reduce, reuse, recycle—in that order
The first step should be to inventory what you already own. Stylist and sustainable fashion expert Roberta Lee recommends doing a wardrobe audit at least once a year to review each item and decide whether to keep, donate, or sell. Consider factors such as fit, condition, and versatility, then organize items into categories to help spot gaps or duplicate pieces.
Items that make the grade but need some TLC can be mended or even restyled with help from a tailor. Walderdorff champions having items repaired, which she says can extend its life—replace buttons, stitch moth holes closed, and rectify stains by dyeing the item a different color. Except for tights, “almost everything can be fixed,” she adds.
If you really need to replace something, invest in pieces that won’t date, says Lee. Look for classic cuts that are timeless and can be dressed up or down.
“Getting involved in slow fashion isn’t about the purchase, it’s more of a mindset. Think about one thing you’d love to add to your wardrobe and how you’d utilize it with the things you have. If you’re struggling, search for “ways to wear a blazer”—it gives you a structured plan.”
Picking pieces that won’t go out of style will help answer the question: “Can I wear this 100 times?” That means it can be worn for multiple occasions, year after year. “If the answer is no, don’t invest,” Lee says.
Reuse by buying pre-loved and recycle destroyed clothing
Buying secondhand is a great way to find affordable, quality clothing. A recent study even suggests buying pre-owned quality clothing can last longer than fast fashion, making it more wallet friendly when considering price-per-wear.
But don’t use that as a justification to buy more, cautions Alana James, a fashion designer and assistant professor at Northumbria University, whose research focus is sustainability. “When the volume of consumption mirrors fast fashion, it can be a negative thing.”
If your clothes are beyond repair, recycling is a good option though it is an emissions-heavy process and may only apply to single-material clothing. Items made of mixed fabrics are difficult to recycle, says Walderdorff, which is why it’s a good idea to invest in pieces made of only one.
Buying new: What does the label, materials, and price tell you?
Labels can be misleading. Some companies use the phrase “designed in” rather than “made in” to make it sound higher end, Walderdorff says.
But the country it was made doesn’t always tell the whole story. Instead, look to the practices of each brand. Lee runs the Ethical Brand Directory, which features about 100 companies from around the globe that value sustainability and take responsibility for what happens to garments at the end of their lifespan. Good on You also has an ethical and sustainable brand guide.
While most fast fashion is cheap to buy, some costs more but doesn’t always translate to better quality. “Some of those mid-price point [garments] are poorly made—there’s no lining, the fabrication is mixed, the composition is poor,” Walderdorff says. “Look at whether the article is translucent, thin; [that’s] an indication the material is low cost [and therefore] fast fashion.”
Though there are benefits to picking natural fabrics like cotton over synthetic ones, it’s not a perfect solution. For example, natural fibers treated with dye or printing can change its properties and biodegradability, James says.
Instead, buy better quality garments that don’t need replacing as often. Look for the hallmarks of well-made garments, says Walderdorff, such as tight, straight seams with no loose threads, tailoring that gives structure, and necklines that keep their shape.
Slow fashion can be found at a range of prices, says Lee. “But it’s worth remembering that quality clothing will cost more than fast fashion, which is why the cost-per-wear metric is an important factor when shopping for new clothes.”
As for consumers in need of expanded sizing, the sustainable fashion world certainly does need to improve in accessibility. However, there are still dozens of quality brands who cater to larger sizes: these guides can help you get started.
Look at how often a brand drops new pieces
Some brands are synonymous with fast fashion, like China-based Shein and Temu, whose low-cost garments accounted for a third of all duty-free parcels that came into the United States in 2022.
Walderdorff says fast fashion brands will noticeably change the layout of their stores and websites frequently to showcase new arrivals. James says it’ll be every two to three weeks, if not faster. ”Fast fashion has short life cycles, a very wide collection, and you see a lot in a very short space of time,” Walderdorff adds.
Brands need to walk the walk
James says it’s a “minefield” knowing which brands are simply claiming to be sustainable and which are actually putting their words into practice. Lee agrees, warning people to be careful of brands that encourage customers to drop off unwanted clothes for a voucher to spend in store. “The entire model [is about] driving consumption and making you feel discontent with what you have.”
Every time we buy from a brand, we’re supporting them and their values, James says. “It’s about being considered in your purchasing and considering the impact those garments have on the world.”
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