These are the best retro motels for Californian kitsch

The Golden State’s traditional motels range from retro Hollywood glam to space age-inspired.

Photograph by Zoey Goto

The state is a gold mine for fans of over-the-top flair — from gilded chandeliers to Old West-themed rooms.

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

For old-school design with a touch of Hollywood glamour, the Golden State’s nostalgic motels deliver in spades. Many of them hark back to another era, whether it’s a retro motor lodge from the 1940s or a space-themed hotel nodding to the 50s. Here are five of the best.

1. Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo

This larger-than-life motel ticks all the boxes: themed rooms housing treasured relics of Americana; a colour palette dominated by Barbie pink; floral shagpile; Disney-esque turrets; fuchsia tennis courts; and gold chandeliers. Sitting at the midway point between San Francisco and LA, a short drive from downtown San Luis Obispo and its surrounding wineries, it has attained cult status for its design since it opened in 1958, courtesy of owners Phyllis and Alex Madonna.

With seemingly more stage sets than a Hollywood backlot, this maximalist motel has 110 themed rooms in all, no two of which are alike. The Yahoo Room has a bed atop a wagon; the Caveman Room is swathed in rock with decorative clubs; and the Matterhorn Room features a vintage cow bell and the Swiss Alps rendered in stained glass. Come nightfall, rum punch cocktails garnished with glossy red cherries slide across the bar towards elderly regulars, many of whom have stayed in every room over the years, and the crop of young newcomers who have discovered the charms of the motel online. Don’t miss the adjacent steakhouse, where filet mignon and lobster tails can be enjoyed in a circular pink booth, under the watchful eye of gilded cherubs. From $200 (£159) per night.

The opulent steakhouse at the Madonna Inn serves a classic menu of filet mignon and lobster tails.

Photograph by Zoey Goto

2. The Victorian Mansion, Los Alamos

On the outside, this turreted inn in Santa Barbara wine country looks like a traditional B&B. But behind its mellow yellow exterior lies a secret kitsch interior. Six themed suites mean travellers can choose between drifting off in a Cadillac, a Roman chariot or a four-poster beside a life-size Egyptian sarcophagus. Over 200 craftspeople spent almost a decade creating this work of art. From $245 (£194), B&B.

3. Calistoga Motor Lodge & Spa, Napa Valley

This nostalgic Napa hideaway looks set to revive the retro motor lodge for a new cohort of road-trippers. Originally built in the Wine Country in the 1940s, the roadside retreat has been updated with nature-inspired interiors, three geothermal pools fed by hot springs and a spa where guests can enjoy mud baths. From $248 (£196).

4. The Astro, Santa Rosa

A relic of the Atomic Age, the Astro was once part of a chain of space-themed hotels. Having eventually fallen from grace to a rent-by-the-hour low, it rose from the ashes in spectacular fashion in 2018. Interiors again nod to the 1950s, with white leather banquettes, record players and signs for defunct soft drinks. From $155 (£123), B&B.

5. The Ace Hotel and Swim Club, Palm Springs

This motel in the shadow of Palm Springs’ San Jacinto mountains has been offering weary drivers sanctuary since the 1960s, but in recent years it has become a destination in its own right. The mid-century mood is preserved with Flintstone-style boulder walls, while upgrades include spacious boho-chic suites styled like bell tents and raucous entertainment such as poolside drag bingo. From $209 (£165) per night.

Published in the Jul/Aug 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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